I know this has probably been asked before but am new to this forum. I am looking at keeping the stock front suspension but would like to go to a different steering column and rack and pinion steering just wondering if anybody else has gone to this and what they used or suggestions Please. I restore mopar muscle cars and have done so for 20 years. maybe a stub frame??? Just want a low budget rat rod as I have a charger r/t and would like something to just play Thanks for your help.

Not sure how you can keep the stock suspension and use a sub frame, but here's something that might assit you

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Swapping_to_rack_and_pinion_steering

I did not mean both just if rack and pinion is not an option then maybe go to stub frame Thanks for the info

what do you have now ? what year ? if a straight axle, rack-n-pinion steering takes a giant turn from stock. if original independent style,[34-50 ????? something] racks can sometimes be used. what are you starting with ?

I have a tough time understanding the mentality of keeping the stock suspension but the steering needs to be upgraded.
I see it a lot though, so I guess I'm the weird one. Like I need another example of that!

There are kits that use a GM econobox rack (cavalier?) to replace the worm and sector and slightly strange linkage. It's had mixed reviews, you should be able to find it and the reviews out there with a search.

I plan on getting my '40 running with the disc brakes, lowered uprights and shock relocation then see if the steering is bad enough to warrant looking at an upgrade.

P.S. Would like to see pics of yours. A 42 is darn rare, as I'm sure you know.

I did a Caviler rack on a 39 Plymouth several years ago (maybe 10?) The article above would have solve the few issues I encountered. I also upgraded to disc brakes (my original drum setup was toast). Also move the upper shock mount. If you want to lower the front end, the front spring uses a mounting plate on the lower control arm, the plate is riveted to the top side of the control arm. If you remove the rivets, you can move the spring bracket to the bottom instead of on the top of the the control arm and effectively shorten the springs without cutting them, by 1". You will need to replace the removed rivets for plate on the underside of the control arm with grade 8 bolts.

I know you were requesting info for the front suspension, but also consider updating the rear axle, brakes, and possibly the rear springs as well. Gene

The car has the stock front suspension in it know the only thing that I have changed so far is I installed a 83/4 rearend in it. I have a 360 I would like to put in but am looking for suggestions of what other people have done to the frt end. I would consider anything to upgrade it for a daily driver.

Biggest issue with the stock suspension is how the shock is mounted. Relocate the upper mount to the frame and it's pretty good.

The add discs to the front, be advised with your 8 3/4 rear you have better rear brakes than front brakes.

The real answer is start looking for Dakotas. It kills a number of birds with one stone to do a frame swap or at least a front clip.

It's not romantic, but it gets the job done fast and relatively easily.

R.

The cars original suspension was light years ahead of everyone else at that time, it is fairly modern. Moving the upper shock mount from the upper control arm to the frame is a huge improvement. A front disc brake conversion would be a requirement from me. I would also update to the dual well master as well. A sway bar off a newer jeep will stiffen up he front end even more.

The Dakota option is a very good option (I have one under my 48 Plymouth coupe), it is a lot more work then adding a disc brake conversion, moving the shock mount, and updating the master. Depending on the condition of the brakes & suspension of the doner Dakota, your probably even money by time you rebuild the Dakota stuff.

If you keep the original frame, mount your 360 1 1/2" to 2" towards the passenger side off center. Keep the motor & trans in line with the frame, there is enough movement in the u joints to allow this. Then everything will clear the driver side exhaust. I usually put a notch in the crossmember to clear the crank pulleys, then box it back in. I've done 6 of these cars (5 39-48 Plymouth & 1 Dodge) 4 were original frames, 1 a Dakota clip, & 1 a full Dakota frame. 1 was just the disc brake upgrade & frame notch (360), 2 were disc brake & shock (318 & 360) 1 was disc brake, rack & pinion, sway bar (no shock move) (V6), 1 was a Dakota clip sold off before complete, and the current one is a complete Dakota frame. All of them got the master moved to the firewall. Gene

Gene I like the idea of yours. A couple of questions. I have found a place to get the steering gear rebuilt are they fine to use? Also where do you get the shock mounts and disc brake conversion kit as I want to be sure and get good stuff. Thanks for your help Bob

I'm not going to be much help today.

Steering box. The 3 steering boxes I reused were in very good condition, The one I replaced with the rack was junk, and the Dakota has rack & pinion. I've not had any boxes rebuilt.

Upper shock mounts. I'm a welder by trade, I made my own mounts. They are pretty simple. You need an eye for the shock to mount to, and an arm that extends up and out away from the frame about 2", then a way to attach it to the frame, either weld on to or bolt to the frame at the outside edge of coil spring pocket. The shock just needs to clear everything as it moves, and the bracket needs to be strong enough to do the job. Nothing radical required, unless you intend to be going off road.... Fatman Fabrication (should show up on a Google search) makes the brackets that you weld on the frame for the shocks, and some early 50s Ford trucks used bolt on brackets the are suppose to work on these cars.

Disc brake conversion. Let me start out saying its been many years since I've done the disc brake conversions. Back then there were very few options, and most were petty costly (for me anyway). I always used www.rustyhope.com disc brake conversions. His "kits" come with a couple machined parts, a couple bolts, some instructions and a list of parts you source from whom ever you choose to deal with. His kit requires drilling and re-tapping 2 bolt holes in your spindles. These days there are disc brake conversions that use off the shelf parts that are a simple bolt on. Some even use your cars bearing hubs.
Some days we can help, some days we can't. Gene

Otter if you want to keep the stock stuff, I have a complete Rusty hope disc brake conversion that I have for sale. PM me here.. Thanks

flyman can you send me some pics and what you need for it thanks Bob radicalresto@gmail.com