i have a couple of setups i may use in my humpback doors. both are flextrack deals. one is from the rear doors of an 84 [K car newyorker], and the other is a pair of factory replacements for a jeep liberty [i think]. i also have several other items on the shelf, but i'm not sure what they are for. my doors are like the rest of this thing..... RUSTY ! i have to replace approximately 5-6" of the bottom sheetmetal all the way around. i have a couple of different ideas what i may do, but i'm not even close to that stage. the reason i decided on flextrack units is, number one, my original crank setups were so far gone there was nothing at all to work with, and number two, i think that will give me more room at the bottom of the door for the mechanisms. oh, and the important thing is, i have zero $$ in the K car setup that only has 20k something miles, and $10 in the pair of jeep units ! since the thing is chopped, i only have about an 11 1/2" piece of glass to work with. my camera is having issues now downloading pics, so i can't take a couple to show you guys what my ideas are. hopefully, i can have that resolved in the next couple of days.

i absolutely agree with your statement about using a kit with the adjustability, switches, etc. that would be the correct decision for most builds. however, with my twisted vision of how my humpback is to be, the switches, door latch mechanisms, locks, and suicide door safety locks, will be an entirely different setup to be sure. i have already sketched out several components plus their related wiring and relay systems. all this will reside just forward of the seats with the "push button conversion" box at arms reach, ala b&m mid-60's shifter box setup. as you stated, the glass channels and runs will be done first using masonite or plexiglass for the glass pattern, then go with the lift mechanisms that will fit the best. wiring the switches and relays will be a piece of cake.

Moparx, If your panel is going to reside in the outside weather conditions, the flexible cable for door wiring is the way to go. The brass contact setups can quickly become corroded enough to not make consistent contact when exposed to real weather conditions. They are OK on a indoor show poodle, but not so good on something that even semi resides in the real world.

I had a friend that bought an ex-show car that had the brass connectors, after about a year in a very pampered, but regularly used ride (cruising & car shows), cleaning the brass connections became part of the daily car cleaning process, because of them making the poor connections. After a couple of years, he replaced the brass contacts with flexible cables. Gene

and when those contact surfaces start to degrade, they create heat through resistance - before they finally go open or trip the fused circuit.