I bought a set of used Hooker 2" Super Comp headers for dyno use, since my TTI 2" headers tuck in too far to fit Dwayne Porter's dyno and this style of Hooker headers doesn't fit a B/E-body well with raised exhaust-port heads like Stage VIs and Victors.

Sunday afternoon I spent a good bit of time cleaning them up, especially trying to get corrosion out from inside the tubes & collectors.

Monday night I grabbed an old head and wanted to make sure the headers would bolt-up OK before I really needed to use them. The driver-side header was OK. Well... actually it was a big PITA because some of the bolts wouldn't start in easily and I fought it for longer than I want to admit before I eventually got 'em all in.

The passenger-side header gave me a bit of a surprise w/ the #2 header tube that's a slip-fit (the #7 on the driver-side is also a slip-fit). When the tube was in the slip-fit joint, the flange wasn't even close to being able to be bolted to the head. And when I bolted down the flange first, the end of the #2 tube wasn't even close to fitting into the slip-fit joint. Grrr... Long story short: the old head tightened into my bench vice gave me a stable fixture, and a long piece of 2" exhaust tube gave me reasonable leverage to get things back in alignment thru a trial & error process that went fairly quickly.

Pics of the ordeal...

What the #2 flange looked like when the tube was in the slip-fit and when the flange was bolted on where the tube wouldn't align w/ the slip-fit joint.

The Handy Dandy (and incredibly cluttered) workbench with the head in the vice and the header bolted to the head. One pic shows the "tool" I used to re-align the #2 pipe.

And the end result...

And the driver-side bolted on the head, FWIW...

Nice work.

Thanks, although it was closer to than .

Was the EGT bung welded into that pipe off the motor?

Such a roomy work area!

What are the pipe stock and slip joints made of? Are they compatible in the welding?

is that a high dollar specialty tool or did you fabricate it yourself?

Tell Dwayne to step up to the plate and buy some dyno headers! Schoenfield has them in a 1 7/8 to 2 inch step header that works with most bracket type Mopar big block. They used to be fairly inexpensive but I think they raised prices recently.

http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/sprintdyno1.html

I have dyno headers, but they aren't the same size as what he'll use in the car.

Actually, I have 3 sets of bb mopar dyno headers.

The TTIs aren't equal-length primaries, but they average right about 32", which is what Hooker advertises the primaries length of the 5209 Super Comps. Both are 2" tubes with 3.5" collector diameters and the effective collector lengths without bolt-on extensions are very close, too.

Neither is an "ideal" design, but the last dyno results using another set of the same model Hookers correlated well to the in-car results with the TTIs. I believe the Hookers are a good alternative for dyno testing when the TTIs don't fit the dyno setup.