Hey guys,

I'm getting ready to start burning up my credit cards available balance by ordering parts for my RB based stroker that I am building for my HOT street orientated 72 Road Runner.

The plan is to be well in the 650-700 HP range at the crank and still be able to drive it to the mall or have the wife grab groceries. Maybe I am reaching high but I bet it's doable.

I was sold on the 512 kit with a set of Trick Flow 240 heads and a Hydraulic Roller cam topped with Fast FI for drivability. Then I kept scrolling down the 440 Source webpage and the CU IN numbers kept getting bigger My question is it worth going to the 528 vs the 512? So much its worth the effort of having to install external plumbing for the oil pick up? With the longer stroke of the 528, I'd expect it to be a very strong motor producing gobs of torque but will it fall on it's face over 5500 RPM?

Has anybody built a 440 Source 528 and have something to share about it?


A little about the car: The Car is a full Rotisserie resto/mod car with mini tubs, spring relocation and Caltracs. Dana 60 with 3.91 gears. Auto trans not yet decided on, possibly the 200R4 conversion or a 4l80E if I decide to hack up the tunnel.

This car will have full interior, PS/PB and the creature comforts of A/C to boot.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Wisdom?

Thanks

Pete

Go with the 4.25 stroke with Chevy rods. I think 440 Source uses 7.100 long rods and an Icon piston. You can get slightly better parts if you use a SCAT stroker kit with Mahle pistons.

For a street engine I'd stay away from the external oiling. External oiling is just a constant source of frustration on a street car. You don't even need the 1/2 inch NPT internal oiling on a street car but it might be a good idea on a race engine.

TF 240 heads are good and if you get the correct HR cam then you'll be golden. EFI is a very good choice. Either FAST or the Holley Sniper if you're going throttle body.

The "512" kit (really 505" at .030 over with a 4.25 stroke) is really nice in that it drops into the block when you use the 2.20 Chevy rod journal. The closest point is the oil pump pickup boss. Usually okay with ~.060 clearance.

Not sure you need the extra cubes because all you are doing is moving the peak numbers the heads produce lower in the RPM range. You will have GOBS of torque with the 512. Mine makes 714 ft/lbs. At 3450 RPM with head numbers similar to the Trickflows.

Mine has a small hydraulic roller and it pulls hard to the 6400 rpm limiter.

512 would be my choice unless you have a aftermarket block

Why is that?

What the heck. I'll be the odd duck. A low deck 470 with the 240 heads would be killer. That's the 3.900 stroke with around .625 lift roller cam. Am sure some on here will agree. It's just a great combination. My nephew built one for his 68 road runner. He went from a 451 to 470, says it scares him to drive it on the street. Maybe he will see this and put in his 2cents.

451 to 470 and making what other changes, do you know?
low deck 451?

Your way better off building a 400 block based stroker motor for the increase strength in the main webs for either size C.I. I've seen 4 or more RB blocks with cracked main webbing from drag racing them, no 400 blocks yet I have never heard of a 400 block cracking the main webbing from making to much HP either They will crack the main caps if you use the stock main caps and stock main bolts on a race motor and detonate the motor, no troubles if you use after market main cap and main studs
I built a 440 based bracket race motor with the 4.375 stroke with a 4.375 bore years ago before I became aware of the main webbing problems I used it as a dyno mule and tested a bunch of different heads, intake and carbs. It made 845 HP that last time I had it on a DTS engine dyno with a set of CNC ported 440-1 heads with a 440-3 intake and a Holley #9375 non HP Dominator carb using the local 110 octane race gas
The same size C.I. 400 block stroker motor with all the same parts will make the same power and probably last a long time longer when racing it compared to a 400 block build

Yeah I would like to know why also? I've been running them on my cars for over 25 years, all on the street and never an issue. If anything more peace of mind knowing I'll never starve it for oil......

I'd skip the hydraulic roller. If you want, use the hydraulic cam and put solid lifters on it. Lash it at .002 cold and forget it. You can use 220-240 on the seat and it will live forever.

Take a look at the Molnar stroker pieces. Very nice quality for a few bucks more.

http://www.molnartechnologies.com/cranks-dom-chrysler.html

Does anyone have any cam recommendations? Somebody stated skip the Hydro Roller, why? I'm not 100% opposed to a solid roller, just rather have not have to adjust the valves 4 times a year.

This is what I run:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-723445-10

A hyd roller works fine in a big stroker since you don't need a lot of RPM to make power. A 505 with standard port heads will be pretty much finshed by 6500 rpm so it is a good match for a hyd roller cam.

If you're building a street engine then don't get wrapped up in race engine thinking. A good street engine will have a smooth idle and a bunch of torque down low and if it runs out of steam a little early then so what. How often are you going to unleash 650 hp on the street anyway?

To be clear, with 4.25 inch stroke and 0.030 inch overbore it works out to a 505 cubic inch. 0.060 inch overbore will equal to a 512 cubic inch motor.

My street/strip 470 rips of mid 9's and 6-teens with ease and is a BLAST to drive and very low maintenance even with an Isky .680-.660 276-281 solid roller.............

I have single line external oiling on 2 different cars and never have any problems w/ either one. Heard of people losing prime, but I've never had that problem in 15 years.
Only real issue I've seen is you need a deep sump pan for the external pickup. Can hang a lil low on the street. I use the 440source low profile aluminum pan on my hemi...works great and has good ground clearance.

My opinion for the OP...I'd use the 4.25" stroke w/ 2.2 rods, internal p/u so you can use a shallow pan if you want, and a solid roller. If you have good rockers, you don't need to lash the valves often at all. I check mine twice a year...I say check b/c they rarely need any adjusting.

I have the 440 Source RB 4.35x4.375 kit (520 ci) and ported TF 240s. (360ish cfms)
I used this Howards cam
https://howardscams.com/i-24079924-howar...lifter-kit.html

The cam works really nice for me installed in at 102 degrees, also used their EDM lifters.

It pulls about 8.5 inches of vacuum.

I have a 4 speed and manual brakes, cam might be a bit much for power brakes but it pulls well.

PS the effort to clearance the oil pickup boss was really minimal, like literally a minute with a die grinder.

Here;s a video of the cam installed in at 104 degrees, the extra 2 degrees of advance really cleaned it up down low.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ygXG7bcL2o

Low deck advantage: slightly more room for big radius tube leaving the exhaust port.

The 4.25" stroker kit is pretty easy to install. Usually just need to take a bit off the oil pickup boss, and you can still use the internal oil pump pickup tube, and don't have the clearance the bottom of the cylinder bores.
On a non-race street type engine the 6-quart Hemi oil pan fits nice and does not hang down below the K-member.
With the TF240 heads and Hydraulic roller cam, I would not expect more than 650 HP. If your looking for 700+ HP, the TF270, larger port intake manifold, and solid roller is likely needed, but that is more of a race setup than street.
With the stock engine block, balance the need for displacement with durability.
The only issue I really have with the 440 source kit, is I wish they offered more piston choices than the ICON pistons.