I'm finally at a stage in life where I can start buying parts for a new build. 10 years ago I bought a nice 400 block and didn't make any progress since. I've got a good idea of what I'm after but still need help with a few parts of the build.

The car:
70 Super Bee (pro street)
383 (needs a new cam)
750 dom
Team g intake
906 heads
MSD Ignition
Dana 60 4:88
6 point cage
Ladder bar rear
SMR 727
MT Sportsman Pro 33"x21.5"x15"

This is a street car that I bought built this way. I've only ever been to the track 3 times in 10 years. It ran a best of 12.97 @ 108 with 2.12 60'
Obviously the engine and TC aren't well matched. The engine works well above 4000 rpm but down low its sluggish. The car made 380hp and 390tq on a chassis dyno.

What I have in mind as my handle suggest is a 500ci low deck. I'll use what I can from the 383. I didn't have a specific hp goal in mind but I would like to build the strongest street engine that I can while keeping the rpm under 6000-6200. So far I've decided on:

440 source 512 kit
TF240 heads
TF Intake

Where I need help is the:
Cam
Valve train
Carb

Before you do anything else on the block have it sonic tested by a good shop, make sure it will have at least .140 wall thickness after boring and honing on both the major and minor thrust surfaces
On the camshaft , do you want a mild street cam with hydraulic lifters or solid flat tappets or are you willing to use a custom ground solid roller cam and lifters?
On the rocker arm assembly buy the best out there,(don't go cheaap ) T&D single shaft 1.6 or bigger ratio or a set of Harland Sharp 1.6 or bigger ratio so you can use them with any cam and lift you like now or later
Does TF offer a 4500 flange low deck intake ? If so buy it and use 1050 CFM or larger Dominator flange carb.
If they don't offer the 4500 intake buy the 4150 flange intake and buy a 1000 CFM or larger 4150 carb.
BTW, those rear tires might not handle the new power from the 512 C.I. low deck AKA
This combination of parts assembled correctly, degree the cam, make sure all eight cylinder have the same compression ratio, same deck heights and so on will make north of 700 HP with 10.5 to1 compression on todays 92 octane pump swill
Let us know on the type of cam and lifters and how big at .050 your willing to use

Here is my combo. I shift at 5600 and cross the stripe in the 1/4 at 6100. Runs 11.0's at 4000lbs. Idles great and if I ever want to go back to power brakes I have plenty of vacuum.

400 bock
440 Source kit
0 deck w/Diamond flat top pistons.
M1 4500 intake w/1" spacer
1050 dominator
Comp Cams solid ,XS282S
Harland Sharp 1.6 Rockers

My heads are not as good as the TF240's. I run Eddy Performers 84 cc. Minor bowl clean up only.
The cam is small for the engine but I knew this. The car is a leaf spring car w/caltracs. Wanted a 4-4200 stall convertor, PTC got close at 4500. No problems on the street. Converter is tight and will move at idle. Absolutely love the set up.

Call Dwayne Porter and pick his brain, once the combo is figured out he can get you a cam that'll work.

I have a similiar combo also

400 block
Source kit 511 kit -24cc dish
.005 positive deck / .050 gasket
Standard port Indy SR (ported my MCH)
SFT 260/266 (Dwayne’s cam)

I haven’t ran a modern single plane on it yet,
Cleaned up TM6 with a 4150/1050 anular 10.92 @ 123.4
Cleaned up six pack 10.95 @ 122.9 ( runs identical to the tm6)

69 RoadRunner
Car is 3760 + my 250 puts it at 4000#
4.10 gear and 9.5” converter
3” tti exhaust

Drive it every where including to the track. It’s just a fun low maint combo.

Like said above, buy good 1.6 rockers like Harland’s. 1000+ cfm carb

I agree as I bought my EZ heads from Dwayne and my cam also. Mine is a solid flat tappet that Dwayne speced for my combo. He recommended the solid flat tappet since I put a good bit of street miles on mine. You cant go wrong having Dwayne spec and build your cam and he will steer you right on the rest of the valvetrain. He is very good and his prices and very good. He is a nice guy who will take the time to talk to you and help out with your combo.
I hear the Trick Flow heads are very good for the buck and I know Dwayne even said they are a good buy that work good for the money. I dont know how fast you are looking to go but Dwayne will help you with your complete combo. I also dont know how much you know and you will get alot of very good opinions here but if your not a mechanic and dont do alot of your own work you can get very confused on all the good advise you will get here but talking and working with Dwayne will help alot. Its best when building an eng to find one person who you trust with building engines to help you make the right decisions with all the good advise you will get. Myself I built a 440/493 and I used the Indy EZ heads I bought from Dwayne as he worked them a little and he also sold me the Indy dual plane intake which works very nice on a street car like mine. I also bought my custom grind cam from Dwayne and I am very happy with all of it. I just wanted high 10's from my street/strip car and its hit that goal with ease. Good luck with yours and that nice looking Coronet. Ron

Dwayne's the man for your valve train. And you'll want one of Dom's Dominators on top, but the B block will limit your intake choices and may force some compromises.

Thanks guys for the advice! I will get the block checked out before anything else. The short block will be built by the shop doing the machine work and I plan to do the rest myself. I will call Dwayne for the cam. The HS rockers are recommend by TF I believe. The TF low deck intake looks to be setup for both flange types.

I don't really have specific targets in mind for power or et at the track. Right now the car looks faster than it runs. I'm looking for a motor that will be street driven, sound aggressive and makes the most power/torque I can get while keeping the rpms around 6000.

Tunnel ram with velocity stacks would look good on that car and I bet the 512 would like it too.

Since you have a 750 Dominator you could copy my build and use your carb on a M1 4500 intake with the TF 240 heads. My low deck 470 made around 700 hp on unleaded pump gas with an agressive solid roller. If you run a street friendly roller you might knock 25 hp off of that which would put you at 675 on the dyno and maybe 625 in the car with exhaust and a manual trans. Auto will suck up a little more power.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/test-intake-manifolds-carburetors-440-stroker-search-ultimate-power/

The 750 Dominator is a good carb so don't ditch it. You can easily convert it to a 1050 Dominator by changing the boosters. Mark W. can do that trick for you and set the carb up with the new boosters. Depending on how old the carb is you might want new metering blocks also. The modern billet blocks make it easier to dial the carbs in.

I also did a rocker arm article with the 240 heads. You can find it on the Hot Rod website. The HS rocker arms will work just fine as will the Mancini ones or the ones from Hughes. I ended up with the T&D rocker arms on my engine but they are more expensive.

I like the OP's plans..... 512/ TF 240's/ TF intake.

Add some Comp Ultra-Pro Magum rockers, a nice solid lifter cam, QFT Q-950 type carb...... You'd be good to go.

The low deck TG manifold has the inner 4 runners really pinched down where they cast for the bolt reliefs....... Not good.
The TF piece is just better.

I've messed with the 4500/750's a few times.
Those were basically made to satisfy the "pro street" show crowd by giving them a 4500 carb to run on their 450hp street motors.
It would need new boosters and metering blocks to work properly on a 650+hp 512.
IMO, better off selling it to someone who can use it as-is, and put that $$$ towards a new carb.

The 270 head would allow more rpm potential and more power potential...
Hyd. roller cam around 258-262@ .050 on a 112lca and 1.7 rockers for .680 lift...should make well over 700HP with a little compression.

The TF is a nice intake but if you want some street cred then try the intake setup on the left with your Dominator. Or just go ahead and put the TF intake on there with EFI. That will move your ride into the 21st century.

I convert Dominators all of the time and if you don't want/need billet blocks, no problem most 4150 blocks can be set up and save ya some coin but at the minimum, billet 12-hole boosters and even a skirted banjo will get it done easy enuff............. PLEASE don't "step into the 21st century" with EFI w/an old classic MUSCLE CAR may as well drive a Toyota............

Andy, I'm not sure I want to know how much those setups cost! I read your articles and posts on here and it's the reason why is plan to go with the trick flow stuff. Thanks!

I plan to use after market main caps but not sure if I should go billet steel or aluminum. What do you guys think about a girdle?

This caught my eye; with your car.......YES!
All the other intake suggestions would likely be more efficient and cost effective, but a tubbed and caged Bee with DQ’s on a tunnel Ram on the street???.... instant BadAzz

Lots of solid advice here. My setup is more modest than most of these suggestions, but makes decent power below 6200 as outlined. It’s a little 451with a mild solid FT, big 4150 carb on an RPM dual plane, and should be knocking on the 10-second door this year while being a great street ride and has proven to be dead reliable. In general, I’d lean on guys like Andy & Dwayne, but for a mostly street car, I’d stay away from a roller cam for a few reasons. That’s just me, though; plenty of guys go that way.

Keep us informed! Great looking car!

The 470 I am building has both aluminum caps and a girdle. I went this route because the guy I’m building the engine for won’t be gentle with the engine and I wanted to take whatever precautions available to keep the bottom end together for thousands of miles in that this car will be on the street 90% of the time. I would say that any stock blocked B.B. Mopar build making over 550 horsepower should have something to help hold the bottom end together

I won't waste my time, effort or money on a girdle as they don't add any strength to the block main webbing, which is real weak on the 440 blocks
By using a good 400 block and wanting to make the bottom end stronger with after market main caps I use aluminum now as I can't buy ductile iron caps anymore
I haven't and won't use steel main caps as I'm afraid it will break the main webbing by being stronger than the block is, so the weakest part fails first when stressed to the breaking point
Most aluminum main caps used with good main studs will absorb a lot of movement and vibrations from detonation before being permanently damaged
Good luck on your build

Awesome car! I built a low deck 512 last summer, and am hoping to get it installed before this spring.
I went with a 400 block, .040 over, and bought the 440 Source stroker kit with the lightweight crank. I upgraded the rod bolts and got the dished pistons. It has a calculated compression of 10.6:1 with a .027 thick Cometic(if I remember right). I put Trick Flow 240's on it, with an M1 single plane. It has Hughes 1.5 rockers on it with a Scott Brown solid cam I got off of Andy F. that is 248/258 .563/.555. I put Howards EDM lifters in it.
I have no idea what it will make power wise, but I'm hoping for over 600. It will be getting a Thumpercarb on it, and be going in front of an 18 spline 833 and 3.54 Dana from the one and only Doctor Diff...