any one got a part # for a 440 valley pan with the heat cross over blocked?

and no gasket need with it correct?

any sealer?

I swaped the stock one for alum today and it had copper rtv on both side of vally pan..no paper gaskets

so I gather its been off before and the pan reused

i want to replace it and put the alum back down with the heat blocked

dont want any intake leaks or it sucking oil,so does it get some indian head gasket shelac/rtv/dry metal on metal???

TIA

fel pro 1215. rtv on the ends.

thanks stumpy

Nothing wrong w the paper ones but most are thick enough to screw up the bolt hole alignment and the ones I've seen are not cut anywhere accurate enough to suit me. People have used the tin dry w no (reported) probs but I dont think it is pliable enough to seal 16 in hg and I dont want even a minor vac leak affecting my mixture. I use a thin even coat of Permatex #1 or #2 in the toothpaste like tube on both sides of each of the 8 port openings in the valley pan.

I thought it would be dimpled like the metal 2-v 318 gaskets

a one time crush seal kinda thing

I have read on here it can be reused but needs replaced when going to a new intake

my first BB intake swap,so its a learning curve for me

i sure found it ez to swap the intake with not haveing to drain the water and i dont have to much in the way

the carb is flat on the intake with only a gasket so i want the heat blocked

would like to see how it works before going to a spacer which I dont want to do for clearance of the v-stack under the scoop

but thats subject to change as needed

whats prefered space or none

Does that heat cross over on the stock heads need to be blocked off? I've got an edelbrock manifold and those heat crossovers are open with the gaskets I've got. Could this cause an issue?

the crossover greatly affects cold start driveability/mileage. On a perf app that's warmed up & ready to rock n roll the crossover puts out way too much heat.

I block them to cut heat to the alum intake and carb

heats bad for perking the fuel when shut down causeing hard starts(its flooded and needs a lot of cranking over to start)

for really cold climates you would want it open on at least one side to heat the intake a little in the super cold weather

my SB was bad about that,blocked it and used a 1/2" stack of alum heat disapator plates with gaskets stacked inbetween them

after a 40 mile ride I cant hold my hand on the intake but the carb stays luke warm on the hotest summer day here in FL

i dont need a choke and figured I would do it the same way from the get go

kinda why i want to use a new valley pan,avoid any leaks right from the get go

Ive installed just tins since the 60s.Never used any sealer or papers.I only use RTV on the ends where the hold downs are.Back in the day the tins were reused a lot.They were like 25 bucks in the 60s which was a lot of $$$.Rocky