Good Evening All
Is there an adapter that will allow a tuff wheel/rim blow to bolt up to a early 70's tilt column?
If so, where can they be had?
Thanks to all who reply.
Omni

Tuff wheel, maybe. Rim blow, probably not. Not speaking from any first hand experience though.

Tilt columns utilized unique steering wheels, similar to GM units. You might be able to use an adapter to mate an aftermarket wheel to GM column to make a Tuff Wheel work.

When you say rim blow, do you mean the woodgrain wheel that looks like a tuff wheel?? Every tilt column I've seen has that ugly c-body rim blow wheel on it.

This is supposedly a tuff wheel adapter for the Saginaw tilt column. This is the only picture I have and don't have any information on it. The regular tilt wheels like used in B-bodies are shallower than standard wheels so any adapter for a tuff wheel wouldn't be very thick. Maybe only an inch.



I'll post some steering wheel pictures next.

I didn't have one of my tuff wheels handy so I used a '72 e-body wheel for comparison but it is the same depth as the tuff wheel and non-tilt rimblow wheels that use the adpater can. The rimblow wheel here is a '71 for tilt.

I question the adapter above because it has the parts for the horn contact and turn signal cancellor which would be different on the tilt. I'd have to get my tilt column out of the garage during the day verify that.

Good Morning

Thanks for the answers.
Imagine my surprise when after finally scoring a tilt column for a 71 column shift rebuilding it, finding a working ignition switch (no aftermarkets or re-pops available), re-working the wire harness, installing the column only to find out that the rimblow that you had reworked two years ago does not fit.
It may be that Mother Mopar never built that combination.
The turn-signal cancelling cam and horn contacts are different for a tilt. The one pictured MIGHT work if it:
1) Mates up to the housing correctly (with the adapter cans I have, the 'lip' that fits inside the housing of a non-tilt column is the same diameter as the housing on the tilt column). The overall thickness does not matter as much. The critical area is where the mounting splines are located within the adapter. The mouting splines would need to be set deeper, as the tilt shaft has about 3/4 inch or so more length than a non-tilt column.
2) You might have to remove the wheel lock disc and horn contact from the column and use what is on the adapter. The steering wheel will not lock when the ignition key is removed. If that were the only draw-back, I could live with that.

Anyway, thanks for the responses.
Omni

As mentioned above you could find a steering wheel adapter for an aftermarket steering wheel to fit the tilt and then adapt it to mount the rimblow. Maybe a round of billet aluminum to mount to the adapter and then put 3 studs into it to mount the wheel on it. I was going to put a tilt column in my '71 Charger which already has a column shift and rimblow wheel but ran into this problem as well. I didn't want to use the stock tilt rimblow wheel so I never did it. I put a tuff wheel on it instead since it was smaller diameter.

Good Afternoon All
To the best of my knowledge (limited) there is no adapter for a tuff wheel/woodgrain rimblow that is made for a Chryler (GM) tilt steering column.
Faced with this fact, I modified the adapter I had. Not a difficult task, just some pondering with some adult beverages.
The following is what I did:
I started with the short adapter (not the "juice can" used on E-bodies), I removed the turn signal cancelling cam and the horn contact assembly. These are incorporated in the tilt column. With the help of a differnt steering wheel (I used one from a late 70's 300) I located where the 27/64 hole should be for the horn. I then drill a through hole in the adapter. (drill press highly recommended).
I removed the horn contact assembly from the tilt column. The horn contact is a spring a brass sleeve/spring that is held in to the contact assembly with a plastic sleeve. These parts will not work with the tuff wheel/rimblow which uses a wire attached to the switch. The brass ring is secured to the plastic cam with three tabs. I removed the ring from the cam, cleaned where the old contact assembly was and soldered a short length (4 inces or so) of #10 wire to the brass ring. Once done re-assemble. and reinstall in the column.
On the oher end of the #10 wire I crimped a female bullet connector (make sure it is small enough to pass through the hole that you drilled).
I then made up another short wire with a male bullet and a female spade to connect to the wheel (or horn button for a tuff wheel).
The inner step of the adapter is the same diameter of the tilt column. In order to hide the space between the adapter and the column. I used a 1 1/8 inch wide piece of mild steel (left over patch panel), formed it to fit over the step of the adapter welded the ends together (looks like a ring). This then is press fit the column.
The original intent was to secure it to the adapter and have it turn on the column, but it turned out the other way.
Either way, with the adapter installed it looks good, and hides the gap between the adapater and the column.
Now that I've done all that I'll probably find a stock adapter.

Omni

Any pictures?