I have heard that due to the torsion bar location on the F-bodies you can run small block A/B/E body headers on your small block F-body.
Is this true?
I dont actually own an F-body, mine's a J body, but what works on one should work on the other. It sure would be easier to find A/B/E body headers than F body. Also, if they do fit, how low will they hang?
Thanks in advance.

Here is a post I received about that same question about a year ago,"Use the $139 Heddman 78050's...They do hang below the draglink so watch the potholes on the street, but they fit fine. On my '80 Mirada (360, power steering) they fit perfect and I didn't have to make a single ding in them at all." Hope that helps some.

Can you tell me about how far they hang below the crossmember?
Also, Jegs sells headers for F bodies: JEGS 30080 and they also fit B/A/E bodies as well. They're alot cheaper, $109.95, than the Hedmans. These should work, right?

I'm using Hooker F body headers on my M body Fifth Avenue. They fit great and didn't require any modifications with a hammer to fit. They actually clear everything. Gaining access to plugs #5 and #7 can be a pain and so can getting to the rear header bolt on the driver's side. They hang a little low, but I haven't had a single problem with that in over 2,000 miles since installation. Three tubes go over, and one goes under.

Here is a gallery of pictures you can judge ride height off of. No really up close shots of the steering drag link though. If you need some I'd be more than happy to take them tonight. PM me if need them.

http://picasaweb.google.com/MoparMullins/070822ExteriorAndEngine

That should work great. My Imperial sits pretty low on the nose, so that's why I was wondering. I can raise the torsion bars if I have to. Are those Competition or Super Competition headers? I'm a high school student with pretty shallow pockets, so I'm trying to go with the cheapest combination possible, as long as they'll fit and flow.
By the way, that's a slick Fifth Avenue

my 5th has the el-cheapo hedmans, all comments the same as mark's but I haven't smashed the "under" tube in over 15000 miles of driving on michigan roads, and my car's front end is set about 1/2" lower than stock, with stock height (27" tall) tires....

I have TTI headers on my f body and they were a breeze to install. Big money though but I think they are worth it. They don`t hang below the drag link and have very easy access to the spark plugs. Mike

Hmmmm, if it was a perfect world, I'd get tti headers, but then again...
Thanks for the pictures and advice! So all you guys with F/J/M bodies, what did you do for exaust beyond headers? I know that the gas tank is in the way, but I'd like to put NASCAR-style side pipes anyway. What do you think?

it's gonna be loud and drone. I'd move the tank over 1 strap and use the summit A body kit, or custom make your own big single. I used a flowmaster Y merge collector, 17769 dynomax muffler (3" in/out) 3" dynomax race bullet in the tailpipe for a resonator, and some mandrel bends to make a 2.5-2.5" to 3" single exhaust.

Loud is good!
<17 years old>

Heddman small block shortys work also for super easy install. No clearnace issues what so ever, a breeze to install but they are pricey like $280 for painted though. And you have to have a shop make you some curved up head pipes to connect to them. Not really a do it yourself deal because they are more like a manifold style hookup. But absolutely no clearance issues though.

My brother and I have Hedman shorties on our C-body '76 New Yorker and they were a pretty easy install. The only problem was with the starter, and luckily we had a ministarter lying around, so they cleared.

rallyecharger which tti's did you use??

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rallyecharger which tti's did you use??

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IIRC, TTI told me to use the B body headers but I would call them to make sure since I bought them a couple years ago and they may have made some changes since then. They are the best headers I have ever owned. No leaks and they fit very well. Starter access is good. I did use a mini but I think a regular starter would fit fine. Changing the plugs are a breeze with no burnt wires. I installed the right side in about 10 minutes no lie. The left side took a little more work but I think it took about a hour at the most. Just follow the instructions included. One thing, if you have a automatic console floor shifter you may have to redo the one linkage rod. Nothing major. Mike
P.S. The hardest part was removing the old headers. I ended up cutting them off with a saw.
P.S.S. I have 3 inch Dynomax ultra flo`s and I love them.