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their rear disk, drum in hat style kit, which I think has 3/4" x 12.08" rotors and 4 piston dynalite calipers fits under my stock M body wheels.

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just trying to get the best of both worlds i guess or if anyone can get these style of rims in 17" aluminum I will thank you!

http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/prochallenger.html

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their rear disk, drum in hat style kit, which I think has 3/4" x 12.08" rotors and 4 piston dynalite calipers fits under my stock M body wheels.

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lookin to see if they fit my old 15x7 hurricane aluminum wheels trying to stuff the bigest rotors and calipers into them as possible - the jump from 11.75 to 12.2 isn't bad but the jump to 13" is almost double
plus if you run 13" you have to run 17" rims

problem is the rims I like are 15" and the 17" aluminum rims that are available for our cars are ugly as sin. The only 17" I found that I like are some nascar style rims but they are steel and weigh over 30+ lbs each.

I'll be daily driving my 72 runner as well as hitting as many autox and track days as possible - the trouble with the 11.75 I've read is that after a couple laps you get some pretty good brake fade which I can avoid going up to the bigger style rotors but wont be able to run my 15" for the street. i dunno how much of a gain performance wise i get by going from 11.75 to 12.2" rotors but its gotta be better i would think

just trying to get the best of both worlds i guess or if anyone can get these style of rims in 17" aluminum I will thank you!

http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/prochallenger.html

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for a hot street/across car, I'd use Dr. Diff's mustang parts based 13" front IIRC 12" rear kits.

are these close enough in style?
centerline GN wheels


or these?



or these



or

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just trying to get the best of both worlds i guess or if anyone can get these style of rims in 17" aluminum I will thank you!

http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/prochallenger.html

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I think you already have your answer. Those 16 and 17" versions ov the stocker rims are HEAVY. If they even have a 17" stock car rim. .. At a local tire shop i saw a single 16x8" stock car rim... pretty much like the ones pictured. I had a line on a set ov used but perfect 295/50/16 BFG's and figured mounting them on my Charger would be pretty rad... Brought my handydandy scale in there the next day... 32lbs.

OUCH.

No thank you. A 17" would be even more... double ouch when you realize these style rims can be had in wide 15" for as light as 19lbs...

Hmmm... which has me wondering about another tangent... Time for another thread.

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My 18" x 10" rims are only 19 pounds too...

(the front 18" x 8" are even lighter)

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I'll be daily driving my 72 runner as well as hitting as many autox and track days as possible - the trouble with the 11.75 I've read is that after a couple laps you get some pretty good brake fade which I can avoid going up to the bigger style rotors but wont be able to run my 15" for the street. i dunno how much of a gain performance wise i get by going from 11.75 to 12.2" rotors but its gotta be better i would think

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If you are worried about how it will do on the track, why not just step up to a larger wheel...you can take advantage of not only a better braking setup, but modern tire technology in 17" and 18" sizes?

Unless you were limited by the class you were running in, then you might just need to get more creative with your brake package.
I have a friend in Australia who road races a Torana (like mine) in a vintage type class and is limited to 15" tires..he does run a race compound/non-street tire at least.. And he needed as good a braking as possible so went with a custom setup using new AP Racing calipers and a 12.?" rotor from memory. The rotor offset pushes as far inward as possible to give him caliper clearance to the drop area of the wheel. He used the thickest rotor as possible as well..

Just some thoughts..if you think out of the box on your brake system you might be able to come up with something if you are stuck with only the 15" wheel. (but going larger does open up possibilities to easier brake packages and tire choices though)

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If you are worried about how it will do on the track, why not just step up to a larger wheel...you can take advantage of not only a better braking setup, but modern tire technology in 17" and 18" sizes?

Unless you were limited by the class you were running in, then you might just need to get more creative with your brake package.
I have a friend in Australia who road races a Torana (like mine) in a vintage type class and is limited to 15" tires..he does run a race compound/non-street tire at least.. And he needed as good a braking as possible so went with a custom setup using new AP Racing calipers and a 12.?" rotor from memory. The rotor offset pushes as far inward as possible to give him caliper clearance to the drop area of the wheel. He used the thickest rotor as possible as well..

Just some thoughts..if you think out of the box on your brake system you might be able to come up with something if you are stuck with only the 15" wheel. (but going larger does open up possibilities to easier brake packages and tire choices though)

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problem is that i found one or 2 17" rims that wouldnt look bad but then their offsets are limited to one or 2 sizes
I was leaning towards the wilwood setups as they have 3 wheel stud setups you can make if in case i do find a aftermarket set thats not 4x4.5"
I like the huge tire selection of of 17" rubber as well - just gonna have to keep looking - I found these rims last night after a couple hours of searching but then again the best size they got is a 16" rim...and 16" tire selection is almost as bad if not worse than a 15" tire....
http://www.etwheels.com/et/fueler.html

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FWIW, in autocross you actually can get away with a lot smaller and lighter rotor because the braking forces will be occurring at slowers speeds for less duration. Also consider that the nascar boys have been using 12.19

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My 18" x 10" rims are only 19 pounds too...

(the front 18" x 8" are even lighter)

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My 18" x 10" rims are only 19 pounds too...

(the front 18" x 8" are even lighter)

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Heh... 18x10"'s under 20lbs...??? i'm sure they were under $200 a wheel too...

Hows the saying go...??? Lightweight, cheap, strong... pick TWO.

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Actually...they were under $200 each.


(that was my price....retail on them was around $600 each. I paid $75 each for the forged centers and around $90 each for the outers.)


Being partly in the wheel business has it's bonuses now and then. Helps make up for dealing with some of the excruciating companies out there...

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My 18" x 10" rims are only 19 pounds too...

(the front 18" x 8" are even lighter)

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Heh... 18x10"'s under 20lbs...??? i'm sure they were under $200 a wheel too...

Hows the saying go...??? Lightweight, cheap, strong... pick TWO.

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Actually...they were under $200 each.


(that was my price....retail on them was around $600 each. I paid $75 each for the forged centers and around $90 each for the outers.)


Being partly in the wheel business has it's bonuses now and then. Helps make up for dealing with some of the excruciating companies out there...

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bump for some pics of good looking 17" rims on your rides - lets see what you guys got!

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