Hey all,

I have a 64 Polara coupe with a 383 and early push button 727. On the rear of the 727 it has the older ball and trunion setup I would like to convert this to the convential slip yoke type arrangement as I'm replacing the 383 with a strong 440 mill. Can this be done? Does anyone make a conversion kit? Thanks.

It can be done you need a 65 big-block trans for the output shaft and housing this allows you to keep the park feature with the cable in the housing not sure if other parts are needed. I also updated the input shaft to use the modern torque converters.

Best way is probably to replace it with later 727.

However, the B$T 727 is a stout unit that is easily upgraded as any 727. The converter has limited choices, but you can get one built to spec, BTDT.

I agree the B&T is strong.My 65 440 4 speed pushing 600 hp still runs the OE one.Ive replaced a lot of rear joints in the 40 years Ive owned it.The B&T is still going strong.Rocky

Thanks for the replies. I'm getting some different views though. Some say that they have no issues at all with the T&B behind big horse power mills and other are saying that the T&B is the weakest link in the drive chain.
I also have questions about a high stall converter that was made for a later 727, will it fit a 62-64 torqueflite or will I need to have it altered? I have 600 HP 440 going into my 64 Polara very soon, so I need to sort out which way I'm going to jump. I want to retain the push button system currently in the Dodge.

The input shaft has a different spline count so either a special convertor or change out the input shaft to the 67 & later piece... I agree the B&T will take some abuse but parts are hard to find & once the assembly wears it won't slip in & out smoothly... I'd build a 65 trans which is still cable shifted but uses a slip yoke & I'd use the 67 & later style input shaft...

BTW Nice 64!

The B&T is very strong. Remember that it was used behind Maxie and Hemi cars with automatics as well as 4 speeds. The real problem is the boot. If the original boot tears, the B&T has to be disassembled to replace the original boot with an OEM one when necessary. Sure would be nice to find one that could slide over the shaft.

The B&T will last just about forever as long as its sealed and has grease in it.I had to replace the boot on my 57 when I got it.The replacement was a leather one that was split and laced around the B&T.It was in 10 years when I sold the car.Its still on and has no problems.As stated the input on early trannys is different.The 65 does use a slip joint.CRT and build a bullet proff trans for you.There was a company that was making a shaft that eliminated the B&T used a reg joint and slip yoke that bolted to the trans.Rocky

There is another way to go is to replace the B&T with a bolt on slip yoke, these were used on early nascar. I had one on mine for a long time until i built the present motor. To do this you need to remake the drive shaft with the spline on the front and the slip yoke bolts in place of the B&T.

Another way to go is to leave the flange in place and have a driveshaft built that has the slip joint in the shaft.

John thats the setup I saw.Its is a decent looking unit.We had a local shop that converted the GM 4 wd frt shafts like that.Rocky

You can get all the B&T parts you need or want at www.oldmoparts.com

You need to remember that there are two sizes of B&T's out there, the small, like in my 65 Cuda, and teh big, like my 64 300. My 300 had 4.10 gears, a stick and N50's in the back, it's pull high 12's in the quarter and while I tore up more than one U joint I never hurt the B&T. Only reason tehy went to U joints is cost.

Potential failure isn't the only reason to replace the B&T, when the main housing wears it can cause subtle vibrations at various throttle settings and the housing is expensive to replace.

Ive run a bunch of B&Ts and never had one fail.As long as its sealed and has grease they last just about forever.My 57 & 65 and my sons 62 all have or had them.Two get pounded on all the time.Ive spit a bunc of rears but the front still is like new.Rocky

ANOTHER vote ferr keeping what you got ... HECK .. look at the post above. Rocky has been running his since the middle 1800's !!

Thanks fellas for the replies. It seems like the old B&T is strong enough to handle some pounding. If I can get my hands on the extention housing and yolk from a 65 trans I'll swap it out otherwise I'll keep the B&T and just swap out the input shaft to accomodate a conventional type torque converter