I am re-wiring my Challenger and want to add an inline fuse to replace the fusible link (at starter relay to switch).
What rating is the link, or what amp rating fuse should I use?
Car has A/C and stereo (CD but no big speakers...).

--I have upgraded the wiring to eliminate the ammeter---so, Is this the ideal placement of the fuse (the original was from Ammeter to starter relay)?
Thanks

The name "fusible link" is a little misleading...It's really not a fuse...It will tolerate more of a load{and longer} than a real fuse...And that's where the problem with just switching to a normal fuse begins... The link is more of a last resort on keeping the wiring harness from roasting and was never intended to have a real inline fuse in that position...I'd keep the link...

Fuses burn fast but a fusible link is slower to burn so it takes power surges better. I suggest you keep the fusible link but if you insist Start with 30 amp but expect it blow and need to be 50.

Most good auto electric shops carry fusible link wire. 4-6 inches should be enough, probably 14 gauge.

x 2 .....KEEP the fusible link ..

I appreciate the info, I did not understand the original usage.
I will go to the parts (napa) store to replace the link.

Also- Should I add a fusible link inline from the alternator to the starter relay (new routing)?

My preference is to have a fusible link at the Alternator and at the battery.

The factory didn't have one on the alternator but if the voltage regulator goes bad or a wire shorts a field to ground and it goes full charge it will toast the wiring the same as a shorted wire.

DAMHIK.

Having one at both voltage sources protects your wiring.

I have a 100a marine circuit breaker for my charging system (higher amp alt). I prefer it, it's tripped once in the four years it's been on there. I rather just click it back over, much better than a fuse..easier to work with than a fusible link...in my opinion

actually the fuse link will protect the short from BATTERY never from alt. The batt is the only source able to KEEP the short being feeded. If you were running just sourced from alt, the engine will stall on the first instance of the short and that will kill the short instantly, even with 100 amps.

The increased fuse link gauge would be just to support the increased load when a death battery. Bigger alt and death batt will mean the alt will feed and recharge faster the batt with more load. BUT hardly will suck 100 amps unless you rev up hard the engine. That will mean the fuse link will hardly receive the 100 amps load.

14 gauge fuse link will be just fine even with 100 amps alt.

You can increase the load protection BUT you can't go to the extreme because if you get a short, fuse link will never burn, or will take too much time to burn, and damage will be bigger on the short area before the fuse link blows out completelly. Better smaller than bigger on this case.

In Line fuse is a good idea, IF you over rate the fuse to be able to support a peak/surge.

It's a blue sea systems brand, has two ~1/4" or so lugs on it for your power to run through. I used to have pictures of all that stuff, however I'm not sure where they ran off to. Bought it off the net for much cheaper than a place like West Marine would have it for. Amazon is $36 for an 80amp

http://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Circuit-Br...3086&sr=1-1



I'm very happy with how it seems to be doing, just something I never think about really.

Nacho that makes sense and Goody I'll check into prices/avail.

When cars started using Power Distribution Centers under the hood the very large fuse looking links replaced the fuse links on the cars. You might find a fuse link in certain circuit on a new car but I cant think of any. The ones I mean are the ones under the hood in the PDC that look like a giant plastic 2" fuse and many of them bolt in with eyelets on both ends but some are push in. When I put my battery in the trunk I made a few changes and use 2 of the PDC type fuse links and I have never had one blow out. I use a 60 at the alt and a 80 at the battery. When I put my battery in my trunk I did not want the battery cable hot unless the car was cranking as I run it under the carpet. So I used a Ford type solenoid in the trunk to keep the battery cable dead other then starting and I ran a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the factory starter relay where the car picks up all the hot battery feeds. I put the bolt in 80 amp fuse link right at the battery cable. Like I said I have never had any trouble with this setup at all. Ron