Guys,

I am trying to diagnose some motor problems in my Charger (440 4 barrel).

I was cranking it over with the valve covers off and it appears the rockers for cylinders 1 and 3 aren't getting any oil.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Greg

You might want to remove the rocker shaft and clean it out, also the pedestals (2 & 4 ??) cuz thats were the oil comes up.

So Cylinders 2 & 4 are oiling? That SHOULD mean you don't have a spun cam bearing.

You may have to run it to get a full flow up top there. Unless you want to pull distrib and intermed shaft, line cam up to drilled hole in cam then use drill to prime it.

Thanks guys.

I am not a mechanic if you haven't already guessed. Could somebody take the time to give me a fairly detailed description of how to prime it with a drill?

ohh you need a priming rod.... then you pull the distrib and run it down into the oil pump. or you could go old school. pull the plugs, shoot some WD40 down each cylinder, pull the coil wire, plug the fuel line and let it spin.

I did some searches as well, I think I am good to go now.

Thanks everyone.

You're getting bits and piece of advice.

IF you want to manually prime;
You need a long piece of 5/16 hex stock, you probably DONT have that laying around.

Position the damper mark at TDC on compression stroke
Remove Dist cap, and note position of rotor--points to #1 cylinder.
Remove dist.
Document the position of the slot on the Intermediate shaft--where does it point?
Remove Int shaft--long needlenose, twist it out.
Insert hex stock down into oil pump.
run drill Counter clockwise.
You have to reposition the motor while doing this, or drill, reposition, drill etc till you confirm oil everywhere.

Return motor to TDC on comp stroke
Replace Int shaft pointing same way.
Replace dist point same way.
Retime distributor.


But considering 3/4 of your heads are already getting oil, based on your OP, I would think your OK.

You COULD just remove the plugs and spin the motor--it will spin MUCH faster! and thats a whole lot easier in this case.

Several ways 2 go. MP sells the 5/16" preoil tool, 5/16" hex rods used to b easy to find at hardware stores, If you have a junk inter gear/shaft grind the teeth down to the root on your bench grinder & deburr w the wire wheel & they're soft & only takes several minutes or can get a 3/8" round rod & grind down to a 6 sided 5/16" hex on the end to fit the pump w your bench grinder then deburr it w the wire wheel & doesn't need to b a perfect hex. Just my preference I would reduce the rod dia a bit & wrap some tape around it in the several inches where it's in the inter bushing. Turn it CCW and from Andy if it's a new build start w hand cranking to see if the pump is free but you're past that so chuck your drill on the end & hold it tight & the rod CENTERED in the bushing. When you feel it catch pressure just eyeball the shaft to see if it's oiling from front to rear

Great, thank you everyone.

Greg

That and make sure you have a big drill.Small drill wont work.I use an old Craftsman 1/2 inch monster when I prime them.When the pressure builds it will want to twist the drill out of your hands.Rocky