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You post these on purpose, don't you

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Who, ME???



One other comment re: Valvoline "NSL" "Not Street Legal" has no (or very little) detergents blended into it, so it's not the best stuff for a street car driven infrequently, unfortunately. Perhaps a mix of VR1 and NSL... /

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Why do these, oil threads, always turn into an Amsoil ads?

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FWIW, I run Amsoil in my Subaru WRX and think they make high-quality products. My RR has only been driven about 600 miles in the last two years since I changed the oil last. I'm having a hard time spending $10/qt for oil that gets drained on a time vs. usage basis thousands of miles before it's earned it's keep. I figure for such low usage I'm better off draining a less expensive oil more frequently to deal w/ the condensation issues, etc., that result from sitting for extended periods of time between drives.

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Brad, there are two types of VR1... One is the API SM rated, which as I understand it cannot have the 1300ppm as you already know. Published tests shown it to have somewhere around that 800ppm level. The other is VR1 that is labeled as "not legal for public highway use". That rule applies to vehicles that were required to have catalytic convertors. So you'd be fine. That's the VR1 I use for "special" cams and that stuff actually smells a little like gear lube, and looks and feels different than modern oils. It's the cam, not the whole engine. If you have a lot of spring, it will not last with any SM oil currently for sale even if the tappets rotate and the thing fires instantaneously and is broken in on the outers alone. Fast rate lobes need spring. I use 320lbs open. If you exceed that, use the VR1 offroad. If not, break it in with VR1 offroad, maybe give it a few hundred miles of seating time, then you can run a std 10-30 or thicker. IMO, one cannot use a factory rating to figure out oiling when the book was written 40 years ago and the engine is no longer using springs with 180lbs open and no lobe lift. The class of SM oils has the same protection as the earlier ratings, minus anything the EPA mandated out for additives. I wont run anything rated newer than SJ on the bottle. It's at least old stock and has the higher zink. But getting harder to find.

You post these on purpose, don't you

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Brad, there are two types of VR1... One is the API SM rated, which as I understand it cannot have the 1300ppm as you already know. Published tests shown it to have somewhere around that 800ppm level. The other is VR1 that is labeled as "not legal for public highway use". That rule applies to vehicles that were required to have catalytic convertors. So you'd be fine. That's the VR1 I use for "special" cams and that stuff actually smells a little like gear lube, and looks and feels different than modern oils. It's the cam, not the whole engine. If you have a lot of spring, it will not last with any SM oil currently for sale even if the tappets rotate and the thing fires instantaneously and is broken in on the outers alone. Fast rate lobes need spring. I use 320lbs open. If you exceed that, use the VR1 offroad. If not, break it in with VR1 offroad, maybe give it a few hundred miles of seating time, then you can run a std 10-30 or thicker. IMO, one cannot use a factory rating to figure out oiling when the book was written 40 years ago and the engine is no longer using springs with 180lbs open and no lobe lift. The class of SM oils has the same protection as the earlier ratings, minus anything the EPA mandated out for additives. I wont run anything rated newer than SJ on the bottle. It's at least old stock and has the higher zink. But getting harder to find.

You post these on purpose, don't you

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I don't know what the VR1 is as far as SM goes, but it IS for racing AND street use. CLICK HERE

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