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Re: Does Dynamat make a big difference?
[Re: 71TA]
#979859
04/26/11 11:56 PM
04/26/11 11:56 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
Pat_Whalen
super gas
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super gas
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,481
Mesa, AZ
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If you plan on going the route of home improvement store insulation material, keep in mind that almost all of it is asphalt-based and therefor will continue offgassing harmful and often smelly fumes for the life of the product. I know for some people that's not an issue, but living out here in the desert and opening my door every day to the smell of freshly paved road isn't that appealing. The products that are actually made for this purpose are typically butyl-based.
Dynomat was one of the first big names using this older technology in an automotive application. Since then, there have been a number of companies that produce a very similar and competitive product for almost half the cost of dynomat. eDead is an example of a quality, produced-for-automotive-application sound deadener that can be had for around 130 bucks for 100 square feet, free shipping on most stores on the web.
And also, as another member mentioned, sound deadener does NOT need to be applied to every surface of the vehicles interior. There is a crossing point of diminishing return by doing this. It increases weight, is costly, and after a certain point, doesn't reduce panel resonation or noise dampening. Something to consider.
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Re: Does Dynamat make a big difference?
[Re: Coronet-R/T-Rag]
#979860
04/27/11 08:27 AM
04/27/11 08:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 299
East Brunswick, NJ
finadk
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 299
East Brunswick, NJ
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I have not used it yet myself, but am researching it for ny 56 dodge peoject. One thing that impressed me about the Dynomat brand is when I bought a 4 speed setup for my wife's Corvette the guy was putting together an AMX it was a bare painted shell covered inside with Dynomat .... I stuck my head in the window and it was like entering the "cone of silence" unbelievable how the ambient noise vanished.
Itay be the most expensive option but it defiantly works so it is worth looking into The Dynomat brand.
Scott
Scott
1956 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer (408 Stroker, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Rack & Pinion, 6 speed)
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
1976 Corvette
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Re: Does Dynamat make a big difference?
[Re: mymcodebee]
#979862
04/27/11 03:33 PM
04/27/11 03:33 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
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I've used the Lowe's Peel and Seal in an old pickup I had. It had some adheasion problems and did smell a bit, especially when hot out. The bubble wrap insulation does work well for heat. Dennis H has it in his car, and it made a huge difference. If you're on a budget, this is the way to go.
The best quality and performance is Dynamat Extreme and the Insulator material from Aircraft Spruce. Remember Dynamat Extreme is about half off the list price with free shipping available from Amazon dotcom.
The "Insulator" mat-type material from Aircraft Spruce is about 4 times better at insulating for heat AND drastically better at insulating sound. It's cheap too. There's nothing out there that even compares right now.
When the two materials are combined in appropriate places in the car, the results are amazing!
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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Re: Does Dynamat make a big difference?
[Re: hooziewhatsit]
#979864
04/27/11 06:54 PM
04/27/11 06:54 PM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
denfireguy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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Quote:
Quote:
Well, you guys might laugh but I've been re-searching this stuff lately and I found on a "Rat Rod" web site that alot of people were complaining about the price of the Dynamat and Fat Mat and the others. One guy said he went to Lowe's and bought what they call "PEAL AND SEAL". Its used for house roof's and has the foil back on it just like the others. A roll is 4in's X 25ft and is $16.00! Its Super sticky and is about .035 thick. Im going to try it and see if it works.
I've heard about something similar... but I thought people said it reeked of asphalt on hot days? 
If it doesn't stink, it seems like it would be a great cheap solution.
The stuff I used was foil on two sides of bubble wrap. There was no asphalt involved and did not smell like anything but bubble wrap vinyl.
Craig
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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Re: Does Dynamat make a big difference?
[Re: denfireguy]
#979865
04/27/11 09:05 PM
04/27/11 09:05 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Well, you guys might laugh but I've been re-searching this stuff lately and I found on a "Rat Rod" web site that alot of people were complaining about the price of the Dynamat and Fat Mat and the others. One guy said he went to Lowe's and bought what they call "PEAL AND SEAL". Its used for house roof's and has the foil back on it just like the others. A roll is 4in's X 25ft and is $16.00! Its Super sticky and is about .035 thick. Im going to try it and see if it works.
I've heard about something similar... but I thought people said it reeked of asphalt on hot days?
If it doesn't stink, it seems like it would be a great cheap solution.
The stuff I used was foil on two sides of bubble wrap. There was no asphalt involved and did not smell like anything but bubble wrap vinyl.
Craig
I used the same stuff on my car from a home center designed to insulate, which I think it does really well.
But it can not dampen sound like something like dynamat because of the heavy material that dynamat is made of. imo dynamat needs to be 100% stuck to absorb sound and vibration which is kinda hard to do with the foil wrapped bubble pad. It helps a lot, don't get me wrong, just not as much as something like dynamat. The foil wrapped bubble pad is a cheap alternative which is really easy to work with.
I used 3M spray adhesive which held it great.
I am looking for something more like dynamat for inside some truck doors and maybe the firewall to help dampen road noise.
These got glued in.
These got got laid in on the floor, not glued incase I ever wanted them out, helps. Did not go crazy with it everywhere.
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Re: Does Dynamat make a big difference?
[Re: Coronet-R/T-Rag]
#979866
04/27/11 10:44 PM
04/27/11 10:44 PM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 257
albemarle, NC
dusterbd13
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 257
albemarle, NC
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you may also want to look into the elastomeric panel dampening sheets from mcmaster carr. ive used this on MANY installs and interior redos. no smell, great adhesion to a clean surface, moderate weight, and wonderful performance.
for example, i just got done dpoing my extended cab chevy work truck. used about 150 sq. feet for all the panels. one thing you will notice is how much more sold everything seems. also, a good piece of advice: do the outside shell of the car (like the back sided of the doors an quarters) and then the inside where your interior panel goes. cover the holes when installing.
another step i use on top of the adhesive sound deadening is foil backed jute.
the jute will soak up a lot more of the road noise than the sounddeadening alone, and provide thermal barrier qualities. again, you dont have to cover it all, but firewall, roof, floors, and backseat/trunk wall are the perfect spots. recently tried thermozite, as it was cheap, and it worked very well.
i have done this process to my duster and all my dailys, and the results have been nothing short of fantastic.
Michael
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Re: Does Dynamat make a big difference?
[Re: dusterbd13]
#979872
04/28/11 03:23 PM
04/28/11 03:23 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
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I read something like this on a webpage describing how to insulate and sound deaden an aircraft.
A simple test will tell you if your panels are resonating. Tap on them, listen to see if it rings/resonates. Now put your hand on the opposite side of it where you Dynamat/ fatmat or whatever you are going to use will go.
Now tap on the panel again. If it is quieter, then Dynamat will help. If there is not much noise difference, you can probably skip that part, you do not need to do the entire interior surface to get great results.
Once you've deadend the panels that resonate, (typically large, open with little metal supporting them like roofs, floors, doors, firewalls, etc), cover the entire area with the insulator pad of your choice, being sure to seal the joints with aluminized tape to seal out heat, smell and sound.
You can put more Dynamat on to block sound etc, but it is expensive, and it's best use is to dead the resonation of the panels. Once the panels are deadend, blocking the rest of heat and sound over an entire suface like a floor or something, is more effectively done in terms of cost and performance with the insulator material from Aircraft Spruce. I bought mine in rolls.
I used the double sided this stuff for everything except the floors, excluding the transmission tunnel, where I used the thinner stuff. I taped the seams to seal it at those joints. Simply measure and ordered. The thick stuff will work on the floor excluding the transmission tunnel, but is really too thick to go anywhere else. The double foil thinner stuff is what you want. It comes it different widths.
I put it behind the door panels, behind the back seat, package tray, under the headliner(Dynamated first) and on the floors. I taped all the seams, so it is like a solid-custom fitted cover with no gaps for fumes, sound or heat to get through. In some cases, like where the sail panels go, I was not able to put anything other than Dynamat because of panel fitment issues.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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Re: Does Dynamat make a big difference?
[Re: 71TA]
#979873
05/07/11 11:34 PM
05/07/11 11:34 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,792
Castlegar, BC, Canada
That AMC Guy
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,792
Castlegar, BC, Canada
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Does the surface that you stick the product to have to be perfectly clean? Reason I ask is I've got the headliner out of my Gremlin to change to a better one but I want to start adding some insulation. The inside of my roof has some surface rust and some left-over glue residue from the old headliner. Short of turning the car upside down, I can't really think of any way to REALLY clean the roof surface.
Bloody Mary, Full of Vodka, Blessed art thou among cocktails....
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Re: Does Dynamat make a big difference?
[Re: That AMC Guy]
#979874
05/08/11 12:04 AM
05/08/11 12:04 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
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I would knock down the loose stuff with some 80 grit, seal it with some quality rust-treating paint like Rustoleum and put it up there.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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