I ran out of patience and need anybodys help right now. I just replaced all my electrical wiring(DASH,ENGINE,HEADLIGHT,TAILLIGHT) in my 69 coronet r/t because of a big meltdown. During this time I also upgraded to a one wire chrysler 100amp alternator and an HEI distributor. I hooked the alternator up to the original engine wiring(new harness) just the one wire, and left the others along? Got rid of regulator and so forth. I don't know if this was the correct way or not?

Ok , as far as the HEI distributor I hooked the neg wire to the neg on coil and pos. on pos.. Ok I hooked the battery up and gave it a try. HERES THE PROBLEM. It will start only if I keep the ignition engaged. once I let off the key It looses power and quits. WHY WON"T IT STAY RUNNING? Also my dash lights don't work now and my taillights don't work. Its all new wiring. I'm getting pissed please help? THANKS!!!!!

If it will run as long as you hold the key and when you let go of it to the run position it dies, check your ballast resistor. You can put a jumper in place of the ballast to find out if that's the problem.

i agree with the ballast restistor. as for the dash and tail lights i would check the bulkhaed connection. did a new bulkhead connector block come with the new wiring? do you have a wiring diagram? classic car wiring has a great color diagram.

I will try the jumper wire. As far as the dash lights. Everything plug in were the old wiring was? I'm going to check and makes sure my cluster is grounded good also.THANKS FOR THE HELP!

do you have voltage to one side of your light switch? if you do not then you have no voltage thru the bulkhead connector. wiggle the harness at the bulkhead with the light switch pulled on if the lights blink there you go.

sounds like you only used the brown wire(start) from the ignition switch- you need to add the dark blue wire also.

dark blue- power with key on
brown- power only on start

Jason are you in Lincoln

The one wire alternator connects directly to the battery not the factory harness. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery or positive lug on the starter

I'm about 100 miles from lincoln. I will hook up the wire on the alternator today. I did get it to run with the wire jump but as it shuts off it spits through the carb? Never did this before? THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP. Hope I can get everything working properly. I'm not a wiring guy?

As was mentioned earlier. Mopars have a Start 1 & Start 2 for the ignition power. The cranking one is a direct 12v circuit that bypasses the reduced voltage from the ballast resistor to help with hot and cold starts.

The 12V power that goes through the ballast resistor is actually reduced in voltage to about + - 8v. That's the one that runs the car after it's started. I believe it was done to increase the life of the points and coil.

Also, you may want to upgrade your alternator wiring/routing, bulkhead bypass and bypass the amp guage to improve your system's reliability & performance.

If you can, talk RapidRobert in to coming over to help you out for a few hours. He know's his stuff.