Re: Electronic ignition issues..pulling my hair out..
[Re: dssaa]
#960530
03/27/11 11:21 PM
03/27/11 11:21 PM
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606 Montana
Yancy Derringer
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
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Not knowing what you did/ changed for wiring, I can't say specifically, but here's how it "used" to work.
Chrysler ignition switches have THREE important, separate circuits inside, that is what amounts to three separate switches SO FAR AS THE ENGINE goes.
1. Ignition run. This is normally the blue wire, which feeds the ballast resistor (originally) the regulator, electric choke if you have it, and the alternator field on 70/ later cars, and may feed the idle stop solenoid, don't remember. In any case it is LIVE in "run."
2 "Engine start." This is the wire that feeds the fender/ firewall mount start relay, and fires up that relay when you twist the key to "start."
3 Ignition resistor/ ballast "bypass" circuit. This wire ALSO comes from the switch, and feeds "hot" battery to the coil + when the key is in "start" and is normally brown.
I would guess that you are missing this last connection. You have a wireing diagram?
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Re: Electronic ignition issues..pulling my hair out..
[Re: rowin4]
#960535
03/28/11 04:18 PM
03/28/11 04:18 PM
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606 Montana
Yancy Derringer
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
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Quote:
Hello I think that it is a bad! Ballast Resistor try a new one and see if that helps.
Quote:
I would try the ballast resistor .
Not a chance is it the ballast. NOTICE he says the car RUNS AFTER HE RELEASES THE KEY TO RUN
This means the ballast is WORKING JUST FINE
I don't have a factory '69 diagram, and once again do not know what changes you've made. Here are some excerpts from a 67 diagram should be the same or similar
The diagram below shows the ignition switch
The three important (ignition) circuits I mentioned are:
STARTER #S2-18-Y (yellow) feeds starter relay in "start"
IGNITION 2 #J3-14-BR (brown) is hot in start and feeds through bulkhead to coil+ side of ballast resistor THIS IS THE WIRE THAT YOU SHOULD BE WORRIED ABOUT
IGNITION 1 #J2-16-DBL (dark blue) This is hot in "run" and feeds the other side of the ballast to run the car
All three of these wires go through the bulkhead connector so you may be losing voltage IN THE SWITCH, AT THE SWITCH CONNECTOR, AT THE BULKHEAD CONNECTOR, or AT THE BALLAST CONNECTOR
The excerpt below shows the bulkhead connector and merely shows which connections the above three wires go through
Ign1 (run), dark blue goes through "N"
Ign2 (bypass), brown goes through "Q"
ONCE AGAIN, IGN2 is what you should be checking
Below is part of the engine bay
Look at the very bottom the drawing labeled "BULKHEAD DISCONNECT" and look at the MIDDLE section, "N" and "Q"
Now look directly above at the connector, notice that "N" shows a wire J2-16DBL. THIS IS ignition "run" on the way to the ballast resistor
Now look at "Q" has a wire J3-14BR. THIS IS ign2, on the way to the COIL side of the ballast AND IS THE WIRE that you need to check
This last wire feeds hot 12 to the coil IN START
Below is the destination of these two wires from the ign switch.
IGN1 (run) J2A-18DBL (dark blue) comes in from the bottom and feeds the ballast. THIS WIRE is what runs the car, feeds battery to the ballast, drops the voltage to the coil in run
IGN2 (bypass) J3-14BR (brown) Notice this wire connects to the top of the ballast BUT WHAT it is really hooked up to is the COIL POSITIVE.
THIS IS THE WIRE I think has failed or is not hooked up. THIS WIRE is what feeds hot battery "in start" to the coil to give you a good hot spark during "start."
Below are the diagrams posted over at "My Mopar." In some cases these are easier to follow that stock diagrams, and sometimes not
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69CoronetA.JPG
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69CoronetB.JPG
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