Re: Intake Valley Pan
[Re: Wolfe440]
#958918
03/26/11 03:51 PM
03/26/11 03:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,063 Irving, TX
feets
Senior Management
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Senior Management
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,063
Irving, TX
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I've never had any success getting the intake bolts installed with a valley pan and gaskets. It seems to be impossible to line up the bolts on both sides. Maybe my heads had been cut.
We are brothers and sisters doing time on the planet for better or worse. I'll take the better, if you don't mind. - Stu Harmon
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Re: Intake Valley Pan
[Re: BSB67]
#958920
03/26/11 05:56 PM
03/26/11 05:56 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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I'm a firm believer in using something on each side of the 8 port holes in the tin as I dont think it is pliable enough to seal well otherwise tho people have used (& even reused) em dry w no (reported) probs. the felpro gaskets I've seen are not cut accurate enough to suit me and yes those will change the alignment & even if the bolt holes still line up (& they very well may still) I want the intake/head port alignment to be spot on which take some carefull/time consuming measuring. A light/thin/even coat of Permatex #1 in the toothpaste like tube on each side of the tin gasket 8 port holes works for me after I've mocked up/milled the head face to get the alignment dead on
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Intake Valley Pan
[Re: feets]
#958923
03/27/11 01:24 AM
03/27/11 01:24 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,904 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,904
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
I've never had any success getting the intake bolts installed with a valley pan and gaskets. It seems to be impossible to line up the bolts on both sides. Maybe my heads had been cut.
no the problem is the intake or the heads would have to be cut , the fiber gaskets are .030 thick , EACH .
I just glue the valley to the heads and put a fiber on top of the valley , had .015 cut off the intake , fits very well.
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Re: Intake Valley Pan
[Re: feets]
#958926
03/27/11 07:52 AM
03/27/11 07:52 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,050 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,050
Niles , Ohio
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Ive never used them.Started doing BBs in the 60s.Then Ma made the pans and you never had paper.Aluminum intakes and heads and never any problems.Back in the day we even reused the tins as they were pricey.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Intake Valley Pan
[Re: therocks]
#958928
03/27/11 11:27 AM
03/27/11 11:27 AM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,935 WI
Dcuda69
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,935
WI
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Quote:
Ive never used them.Started doing BBs in the 60s.Then Ma made the pans and you never had paper.Aluminum intakes and heads and never any problems.Back in the day we even reused the tins as they were pricey.Rocky
I've had 2 different intakes on and off a couple times using the same pan with no problems(no gaskets)
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Re: Intake Valley Pan
[Re: therocks]
#958929
03/27/11 12:41 PM
03/27/11 12:41 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,309 Prospect, PA
BSB67
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,309
Prospect, PA
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Quote:
Ive never used them.Started doing BBs in the 60s.Then Ma made the pans and you never had paper.Aluminum intakes and heads and never any problems.Back in the day we even reused the tins as they were pricey.Rocky
Good for you. I'm glad that you never had any leaks. However, it is incorrect to imply that they wont leak.
I have been doing this since the 70's. My experiance is that most aftermarket intakes leak a little, usually two intake runners, usually from the bottom. Some worse. I have not tried every intake manifold ever built, and have not tried any of the newer intakes without the paper. Maybe they are better. Of course presuming all of the other machining on the block and heads, including dowel placement on both, is also near perfect.
When I'm assembling my engines, I usally loosen the clearance of locating dowels slightly, and mount the intake to the heads, then do the first round of snugging the head bolts, then remove the intake before torquing the heads. If you have .004" clearance between the head and intake when tightened slightly without a gasket, it will probably leak, as the pan gasket really does not have much forgiveness. Usually you'll find the gap in one corner, and not the entire length of the intake.
Many people don't even know that their intakes leak when it is small and they have any kind of cam. Most of the Mopar guys that I know, some doing this since the 60s, have also believed that their intakes never leak. I have shown most of them that they have been mistaken.
This is just my experiance.
As a side note, I have not had any luck with sealing a leaker with any magic sealant. Usually any hard engine deceleration from high RPM will pop the seal. When I assemble with the pan and gaskets, I use WD 40. Intake removal is a snap and can test three different intakes in an evening of dyno runs.
Last edited by BSB67; 03/27/11 12:42 PM.
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Re: Intake Valley Pan
[Re: topside]
#958930
03/27/11 01:10 PM
03/27/11 01:10 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 176 Rome, GA
GTXX
member
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member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 176
Rome, GA
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Quote:
We made & still sell .015 paper gaskets, and we've used 'em for decades. Never a leak of any kind, and thin enough that you don't have installation problems. $9.95 for 2 sets, $29.95 for 5, $49.95 for 10. Send me a PM if interested.
do many people buy 5 sets for $29.95?
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