I painted and cleared my Duster back in June, last week or so I've done some fine buffing on it. my trunk lid had some "dimples" in the clear, maybe from some contamination I didn't get cleaned up. Anyways, I wetsanded this side of the lid and removed the dimples, and proceeded to wetsand nto finer grits. to see what I had i hit it with some 3M perfect-It, and its hard to see in this picture but theres a cloudy ring that's formed. (look in the reflection of the trees to see it)

I'm wondering if I should maybe start back at a heavier grit and try again or just reclear this panel.

Basecoat is Chromabase, and the Clear is Nason line. the rest of the car looks great, this area is a little off though. thanks

another

I haven't used that clear in a long time , but it used to take some serious buffing to get the shine back up on it. Which Perfet-it product are you useing? What grit paper did you start with?

Being one of my first clearcoat jobs, I used 600 in the bad orange peel spots, then moved into 1000, 1200, and a few areas 1500, not many though.

The Perfect-It I have is the rubbing compound. A lot of the car has really glossed up good with just that, like the hood roof, edges, and the better part of the sides. I figured once I got it all uniform I could go into the finer stuff.

600 grit is extremely coarse for cutting clear. The fact you started with that once in this area leads me to believe you'll cut into the base if you try again---unless you REALLY laid on a thick coat of clear when you painted.

I got a somewhat similar situation on a car we are painting, did not give the proper flash time and ended up with areas of soda pop, then it really came out in the wet sanding and buffing. Now having to wet sand down through the clear until gone and reapplying new clear.

I see it this way, not sure how much clear you have left to play with, but what do you have to lose. If digging deeper does not get rid of it and you have to re-clear then your going to have to wet sand through the existing clear anyway until you get rid of the problem or its very likely any new clear applied will let it show through.

600 grit is really too agressive on clear and it's hard to get out, might try going over it again with 1500 on a block to make sure the coarser scratch is gone. Then step to a piece of 2000. It will polish easier. Are you sure your not breaking through the clear into the base?

I'm getting the impression you're trying to polish this by hand?

Being rather new at the wet sanding clear thing, when i laid the clear on, I laid on a lot. I haven't cut into the base anywhere. Good point about fixing it, I'll have to sand it anyways. I have enough product to cover the lid again if need be. I'm pretty happy with the results everywhere else on the car, given my experience.
thanks!

its hard to see in the pics but it looks like maybe you just spot sanded it and it neededs to be buffed more.I would hit the whole trunk lid with some 1500 then 2000 grit and then rebuff it.When you wet sand it sand a spot 1 foot X 1 foot then dry the area to see if you still have any orange peel,keep doing it untill you have no orange peel.Do the whole truck and the rest of the car that way and it will look great.When you buff it i would start with some micro finish(3M brand)or your choise of compound and then move to some Finesse-it.

Can you take and post better pictures showing the problem?