I'm going to rebuild a 4973S Thermoquad. I wanted to know if theres any tips or advice from those who have rebuilt Thermoquads?? Its my first Thermoquad rebuild. The carb was in good working condition when I pulled it off years ago, and it has been kept in the garage since. Thanks

AS LONG as the throttle shafts are tight .... very little is needed in many MANY cases. I would get a OEM service manual and get something to clean-it-up nice and brass floats and the primary O-rings ...and you should be good-to-go.

Not a difficult rebuild, order a rebuild kit and follow the directions. One thing that you want to pay close attention to is the wells in the bottom of the body, they can become loose and leak. With that said if you can get them off and clean them up and get a good 2 part epoxy for automotive use and re-glue them in place that would be a good thing. If you do this make sure and let the body sit for a couple of days to be sure the epoxy has sufficient time to set up. Clean everything else and blow all of the passages out and reassemble. Pay close attention to what comes in the kit, I can't recall but I think I had to order brass floats separately.

Here is a link that might be helpful.
http://www.moparnuts.com/images/stuff/Tquad2.pdf

Here is another link that might be helpful.

http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/Carter/TQ-index.html

And of course you can check with Scott at http://www.harmsauto.com/ he is on this board.

In my experience ... the primary wells very rarely need REgluing ... but it is something to check.

And as long as you are careful in the uNassembly of the carb ... you never need any gaskets EVER ...

Your '71 ThermoQuad is a one year only design and does not use the x-style o-rings used on the '72-up carbs and the bowl does not have the epoxied wells either!

So my advise would be:
clean the bowl well inside/out,

be sure the accelerator pump nozzles are clean,

set the float level to 29/32" with the top bowl gasket on the top casting and the top casting inverted,

be sure to return the accelerator pump check valve under the accelerator pump nozzle cluster with the pointed end down,

straighten any bend to the metering rods,

remove the old needle seat gasket when you remove the seat,

use a light oil on the threads of all screws when you assemble the carb,

drive the old accelerator pump assembly/well cover out of the top casting with a punch; strike the exposed end of the accelerator pump stem after you remove the pump arm and 'S' link, driving the pump straight through the top casting. Do not attempt to 'chisle' the pump well cover off.

And make sure all old gaskets 'match' the new ones, David.

Hey David I was just trying to call you. I need some parts if you have them, please click on my profile and send me an email with contact info and a good time to call.

Thanks

Great tips guys.
I've tried a few things that will make the bakelite shiny black again but would welcome other ideas.

One more,do all the adjustments in order,if you do one out of sequence it will change another.