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Re: no vac adv can
[Re: lokalik]
#955941
03/21/11 09:41 PM
03/21/11 09:41 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319 Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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In general answer is no, you don't want to remove the canister. It holds the advance plate inside the distributor, without it in place, the v-adv. plate would move freely, playing havoc with your timing. I'm sure there's a way you could fix the plate.... but you're on your own with that one. I took a section of vacuum hose and pressed a plug into it at the carburetor end. Visually, it looks like all is hooked up and operating, but there is not actually any vacuum being applied to the distributor. (I like a finished appearance under the hood )
Last edited by GEnsrud; 03/21/11 09:51 PM.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: no vac adv can
[Re: lokalik]
#955945
03/21/11 11:43 PM
03/21/11 11:43 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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Drill a 1/2" hole in the top flat of the dist cap about 2/3 of the way from the center terminal closer to the #1 terminal and shine your timing light down on the rotor blade at idle which'll freeze the rotor like a strobe light will on a dance floor. Note if the blade is dead on w the underside of the #1 terminal & if not is it pretty close or way CW or CCW from it. The can shifts it (from that point) CCW on a SB and CW on a BB. EDIT assuming ported hookup. Use a mityvac or similar vac pump & pump up the can by hand till it shifts it just enough till it is lined up as good as it can b made to & note the vac needed to hit that exact point then take it out/apart & pump in that amt of vac to locate the plate at the same point & drill/pin em. Now if you need to shift it CW on a SB or CCW on a BB forget the can and you'll need to dissassemble the plate and move the eccentric plate the opposite & it'll take alot more work as you'll have to mock it up/pin it & recheck. Depends how far off the phasing is/how meticulous you are in getting every subsystem spot on. I would also narrow the rotor blade to 1/2 of it's current width and extend it w solder/liquid steel to reduce the tip to cap terminal clearance to ~.030" as any spark in that gap is wasted energy that is better put to use in the cyl. Would it b possible for you to get an A/C air cleaner (or mod the A/C hose) so you can keep it
Last edited by RapidRobert; 03/22/11 01:05 AM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: no vac adv can
[Re: RapidRobert]
#955946
03/22/11 02:16 AM
03/22/11 02:16 AM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,300 Washington
19cuda73
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,300
Washington
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I ran across a distributor the other day with some of the same issues you guys have been talking about. My motor came with the distributor on the right which had the block off plate and the inside plates were screwed together. What was this used for? was it a aftermarket kit?
1966 Charger 383 4 speed (Black with Red interior) 1973 Cuda 340 4 speed (Lemontwist) 1972 Corvette
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Re: no vac adv can
[Re: lokalik]
#955950
03/22/11 02:35 PM
03/22/11 02:35 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746 Ontario, Canada
Dodgem
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746
Ontario, Canada
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I put a couple welds on the plates to keep them from moving after the advance pot is removed. The first one I ever did I screwed and nuts to keep it together.
Last edited by Dodgem; 03/22/11 02:36 PM.
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