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Run it hard

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X2 and read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com (5 minute read) & no bon ami/ajax

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Run it hard

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X2 and read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com (5 minute read) & no bon ami/ajax

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Run it hard

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X2 and read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com (5 minute read) & no bon ami/ajax

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buddy told me he does 4-5 burns out to seat the rings. They are either going to seat or not. I burned up the #3 on my supercharged 440 TWICE. Both time I honed the wall real quick then dropped the piston,,, just drove it. Never had any problems.

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WHICH grits ? ... what brand and price?

Don't recall exact grit, they were right off the tool truck, but seemed to be on heavy grit side.

I have a MH 413(dished pistons) that I am putting some std bore(flat-top) pistons in-it. NICE bores ...all I think is that the bores need to be scuffed-up a tad.

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Use a real hone...if you want your rings to seat correctly.

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Is someone here OFFERING a loaner ?

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It's a SUNNEN too! Aren't all our garages filled with inexpensive equipment like that?

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I do HEAR YOU ..... the only people that can afford long-dollar stuff like this ....

...... are energy REsellers ! (don't I wish)

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It's a SUNNEN too! Aren't all our garages filled with inexpensive equipment like that?

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I do HEAR YOU ..... the only people that can afford long-dollar stuff like this ....

...... are energy REsellers ! (don't I wish)

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Nope...it comes from getting up everyday at 5:30 AM everyday for 26 years now and making sure 5-10 guys have work for the day. And then working smart all day long for a long time. That's where it come from.

I'm at work right now, wrenching on dirty greasy trucks so I don't have to pay someone else to do it, That's how I work smart to make money.

Where you at? you making at money today?

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Where you at? you making at money today?

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Sorry ...I OVERlooked this part ......

At ? ... my tool box is beaucoup SHORT of what you have !! and the Craftsman rollaway I have I bought at the Mopar Nats ....on Sunday JUST before closing for 50 beans ..

Me making $$ ? ... LIVING off the sale of those new-and-improved ThermoQuad air-valve tools will be allowing me to purchase a private island in-da-Keys .... .....NOT ...

Just letting my Apple stock ...werk-ferr-me !

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WHO HERE likes a dingle-berry hone ?

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In 2004 when I built the 440/493, I drove it REAL easy during the first 500 miles, then changed the oil. In the next 2500 miles, it used oil, got slower and eventually started smoking . I pulled the motor out to hone it and put in new rings.

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You left out that you ran a X number of cam lobes worth of metal filings thru it in part of that 2500 miles from 2 cams that went flat .....

Look at a race motor , break in the cam if a flat tappet .... then start racing it ...

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In 2004 when I built the 440/493, I drove it REAL easy during the first 500 miles, then changed the oil. In the next 2500 miles, it used oil, got slower and eventually started smoking . I pulled the motor out to hone it and put in new rings.

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You left out that you ran a X number of cam lobes worth of metal filings thru it in part of that 2500 miles from 2 cams that went flat .....

Look at a race motor , break in the cam if a flat tappet .... then start racing it ...

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GOOD Memory! I'm sure that the 2 dead cams added to my problems. Cant slip that by you, huh?

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In 2004 when I built the 440/493, I drove it REAL easy during the first 500 miles, then changed the oil. In the next 2500 miles, it used oil, got slower and eventually started smoking . I pulled the motor out to hone it and put in new rings.

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You left out that you ran a X number of cam lobes worth of metal filings thru it in part of that 2500 miles from 2 cams that went flat .....

Look at a race motor , break in the cam if a flat tappet .... then start racing it ...

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GOOD Memory! I'm sure that the 2 dead cams added to my problems. Cant slip that by you, huh?

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Nope , I'm still shaking my head, and laughing my [Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean] off, when people think they can just change the oil and swap a cam after devouring a cam lobe , or 5 , and everything will be FINE ... ...

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I understand that you have your beliefs. I respect that. I have been a WOOD mechanic (Carpenter) for 25 years and that trade has taught me that MY way isnt the ONLY way to do things.
In the case of my Charger and its motor problems, When I tore down the motor last month, I saw very little debris. I noticed some near parting lines on the block and in crevices in the heads near drainback holes, but the bottom of the pan wasn't filled with metal shavings. The cylinder walls didn't have gouges in them. I DO agree that losing a cam lobe is bad but from your posts I gather that you are very conservative about engine building. I see your perspective as being cautiously pessimistic. I am the type that takes risks that often pay off. If I read your posts and then read another from someone like me, I might be inclined to side with you, IF I HAD THE TIME AND MONEY. I think that you are much more knowledgeable than I, but some kids have to learn things for themselves.
I will certainly give closer consideration to pulling and douching a motor that wipes a cam in the future, thanks to you. Please do not consider my words as any sort of insult. Quite the contrary. I think that a mans best lessons are sometimes the ones he learns the hard way.

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I understand that you have your beliefs. I respect that. I have been a WOOD mechanic (Carpenter) for 25 years and that trade has taught me that MY way isnt the ONLY way to do things.
In the case of my Charger and its motor problems, When I tore down the motor last month, I saw very little debris. I noticed some near parting lines on the block and in crevices in the heads near drainback holes, but the bottom of the pan wasn't filled with metal shavings. The cylinder walls didn't have gouges in them. I DO agree that losing a cam lobe is bad but from your posts I gather that you are very conservative about engine building. I see your perspective as being cautiously pessimistic. I am the type that takes risks that often pay off. If I read your posts and then read another from someone like me, I might be inclined to side with you, IF I HAD THE TIME AND MONEY. I think that you are much more knowledgeable than I, but some kids have to learn things for themselves.
I will certainly give closer consideration to pulling and douching a motor that wipes a cam in the future, thanks to you. Please do not consider my words as any sort of insult. Quite the contrary. I think that a mans best lessons are sometimes the ones he learns the hard way.

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To put it another way, there is no positive benefit (only negative) from metal shavings in an engine. Could you get by with it? Sure. Some people are just more comfortable with their decision.

I wiped a solid cam rolling the dice on spring pressure. I tore it down completely, power washed the block and all the passages, re-honed, new bearings and rings, oil pump, and picked as many of the shavings from the skirts as I could see using a magnify glass and razor blade. Overkill according to some, but that's just how I roll...

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I understand that you have your beliefs. I respect that. I have been a WOOD mechanic (Carpenter) for 25 years and that trade has taught me that MY way isnt the ONLY way to do things.
In the case of my Charger and its motor problems, When I tore down the motor last month, I saw very little debris. I noticed some near parting lines on the block and in crevices in the heads near drainback holes, but the bottom of the pan wasn't filled with metal shavings. The cylinder walls didn't have gouges in them. I DO agree that losing a cam lobe is bad but from your posts I gather that you are very conservative about engine building. I see your perspective as being cautiously pessimistic. I am the type that takes risks that often pay off. If I read your posts and then read another from someone like me, I might be inclined to side with you, IF I HAD THE TIME AND MONEY. I think that you are much more knowledgeable than I, but some kids have to learn things for themselves.
I will certainly give closer consideration to pulling and douching a motor that wipes a cam in the future, thanks to you. Please do not consider my words as any sort of insult. Quite the contrary. I think that a mans best lessons are sometimes the ones he learns the hard way.

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To put it another way, there is no positive benefit (only negative) from metal shavings in an engine. Could you get by with it? Sure. Some people are just more comfortable with their decision.

I wiped a solid cam rolling the dice on spring pressure. I tore it down completely, power washed the block and all the passages, re-honed, new bearings and rings, oil pump, and picked as many of the shavings from the skirts as I could see using a magnify glass and razor blade. Overkill according to some, but that's just how I roll...

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You can either do it once and do it right taking your time in the process or you can keep making the same mistakes over and over and over....

Personally all of my engines (even stock-ish rebuild for my truck!) went back together as meticulously clean as I could get them! Never had a problem and beat on them the minute the cam was broken in!

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broke the cam in - changed the oil and let it rip - the hood never even made it on the car...

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I have had quite a few new rebuilds. My method is like many others except one thing. When changing oil after Cam Break in etc. I drain the oil through rag, strainer what ever works. Cut the head off the original filter and spread out and check element for metal. Refill with oil and run it like you stole it when you feel like it.

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I am surprised no one has mentioned so far ....

How about magnetic-probed drain-plug say with a 2" or so extension. It is has been awhile since I have R&Red a motor out to do a complete rebuild(and have the oil-pan off) ... but when I did ...I always put one of those thin donut magnets in the bottom of that pan.

MAYBE these days ... with the issues with oil(the lack of zinc) it might be the plan to put TWO of these donuts in.

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WHO HERE likes a dingle-berry hone ?

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My understanding is that the hone process is critical. Especially the crosshatch angle and grade of the stone. The finish must match the type of ring used and prevent unnecessary loading of the rings. Plateau is the area between hone grooves which in surface area is just as important to the depth of the honing grooves for oil retention & seal.
IMO honing is a precision process, which means professional equipment. the bore cleaning process is also crucial as much material holds up in the grooves.