I'm running a 70 cuda with a 340 4 speed I have a holley Carb 750 on it now.
I have a LD340 1inch spacer.

Running X Heads Have a purple cam 280/ 484 108 centerline 50%

Have TRW Pistons H-Beam Rods Stock Cam I built the engine for the

street. with low end torque DONT HAVE THAT NOW. My Int settings are

18 and final set 35 total When i purchased the carb from a freind rebuilt it for me. Just never has the low end i would like. In fact it was very hard to spin tires at stop. Also running a 3/8 fuel line

Any Idea's Thanks Kevin this has been a 2 year problem.

I'm trying to remem the other thread, 3:55's right? your timing is in the ballpark. What's the actual CR or cranking compression if actual CR was not measured? Might borrow an eddy or holly 600 from a buddy for a day & see what transpires. Might adv the cam 4 deg & recheck intake (I remembered ) PV clearance after you adv it. I somewhat suspect not enough cyl psi rather than overcarbing

Lots of places to look.Verify cam timing and compression.What gears are you running?
That cam is'nt my first choice for torque(especially in a short stroke 340).Short of swapping cams I might suggest advancing this one and see what happens.
A smaller carb will likely help with the low end throttle response as well.

Thought about changing the cam any recommendation on that.I've advance the timing to 20 Deg ran and started good but hard starting Backed the dist back to where it would start ok back to same problem. I'm running 3.55 gears. Alittle lost right now Thanks Kevin

Hi

Bear with me but some techical stuff I'm not sure of. How do you measure the CR not sure.?

Not enough cyl PSI.? Not sure what you mean Used to be pretty sharp years ok Just looking for help Thanks Kevin

one thing that helped me a lot when using the 484 years ago was to use lighter springs in the distributor and disconnecting the vaccuum advance. they are mopar performance p2932675 and cost less than 20 bucks. use one of the springs in the kit and retain the smallest of the 2 already in the distributor. also, tailoring the shooter sizes in the carburator helped a LOT too. btw the 750 holley is very well suited for the 340, be it double pumper or not. you just need a little bit of fine-tuning, thats all .good luck.

i forgot to mention one thing: remove that spacer underneat your carb cause it costs you a bunch of torque under 4500 rpm or so.

When you bumped the initial up to 20 how did it perform (other than hard cranking)? when is your total in (what RPM where it wont advance anymore)?

Hi

Thanks for responding When it was hard to start it actually ran good power was good. Wouldn't start hard starting backed off and started easly. Idont have a RPM gauge so its not sure I run it up to where i think its about 2500-3000. my vacuum goes up to about 17-18 bounces a bit.I know this car has good power just need to find it. Total i figuerd about 2500 35total

650 holly is fine

IGN. use the "vac gauge method" to set initial then w that figure in hand shorten the slots to get 35 total then play w the springs & w them picked out set the vac adv (if used). More on the above later, I need to get to work, boss likes it when I show up on time. W the initial set if it still cranks labored, wire in a toggle sw for the ECU & w it off start cranking it w the key then close the sw. EDIT I'd dial in each subsystem of the dist in order then the carb and later (or right now) adv the cam 4 deg (recheck intake VP clearance if you think it's anyway near ~.125) then you'll need to go thru the dist again as the increased cyl psi will change your timing requirements then the carb again so yes might be for the better to adv it now which'll make the long block as good as it can get (as is)

It's not your carbs fault. It's your cam choice. Unless you are running 3.91's that cam is not going to be a "stump puller" Also You should bump your timing up some.

Here's what he said on his other thread.........

"Mixture screws seem sluggish

can turn them all the way in runs but not very good. It should stall

out but does run. I had the carb rebuilt a year ago Cant drive it now

live in north East."

The most significant thing with the MP 284/484 cam ,if you really have that one, is the narrow LSA and the tuning required to get it to behave well. As mentioned, it needs gear, converter, more init. mech. advance, 36 degree total, proper cam phasing, proper intake/carb match and on and on.

You haven't even started with the carb tuning. Get the distributor recurved FIRST! Many people blame the carb for a lazy off-idle stumble when they have never touched the distributor. The tune the carb. You may have to open the secondaries to drop the primaries closed more and get those idle mixture screws to be more sensitive. A HUGELY overlooked necessity that's easy to do but most just suggest a cam swap. Then play with pump squirter size and pump cams. A 650 is all you really need for that combo too. It would need the above tuning too. Become a carb guy, there's no voodoo once you take the mystery out.

YES, there's better cams. BUT, they need tuning to your unique application too. Why not learn for free on your old cam.

When I bumped to 20 sounded really good seem to have the power no hesitation. But the dreaded hard start. I purchased Dist springs from summitt today. See how that goes. Sounds like i went with the wrong cam I wasn't sure at the time. Did have some good positive things. I have a hard time remembering things lucky it ran i guess. I know my oil pressure was low like 40 hot highway 30lbs idle 10-15 According to what people are saying the shop i had put the cam and bearings in probably had a bearing not right over the hole in the block. OK will wait for the springs see how it goes will let you know Kevin

It's all about tuning.

A combo like that should have plenty of low end torque.

I had a 318 with 360 heads, .480 cam, headers, M1 single plane and 750 3310 Holley. I would boil the tires from a stop and bark 2nd hard even with really low compression and 3.23 gears.

Did you degree in the cam or slap it in there? Could be part of the problem..

Sounds like you're about ready to tear into the distributor. Make sure the weights are clean and function properly. A cheaper set of springs is the Mr. Gasket #925B springs. Usually go for $11.00.

Carbs can be picky. We had a brand new 750 3310 that some of the plating came off of and got lodged. Truck ran fine until we put about 500 miles on it then started acting up. Dipped it, blew out all the passages and it worked perfect.

I Did not degree the cam people I new said since i wasn't racing it wouldn't need to do it. I will get the dist springs couple days cant drive it just got 15 inches of snow. If i changed cam;s what would work for me. If the springs didn't help. If i would of had the money would of gone crate motor.

FInd a old dual point accel dist they have a virtual perfect timing curve for 340 esp if you are unfamiliar with recurving one also cheap. Set the total to 40 - 42 degrees to start. Forget initial as long as car starts Carb use 28-31 squirters depending on temp jet frt 71 the rears 76-78 again temp altitude to be considered USE A 4 HOLE SPACER not a open one get a good dual plane do not use a performer unless its a RPM. Get a set of 3.91s or even 4.30s that car will plain haul tail and if it doesn't you need to look for something wrong internal

Hey

Wanted to let you know that today messed alittle bit with the car and noticed that secondarys are not put any gas the rear of the carb. Waiting on the springs thought I'd let you know about the secondarys thanks kevin

I really appreciate the help as i;m alittle lost. There's things i should of done different alittle late now. So now no fuel to secondayars not sure about that will check it out. If i change cam will have to pull the engine right.? ok thanks Kevin

Mini-starter, intial timing at 18-20 degrees with quick advance springs total advance by 2500rpm and 3.91 gears should help alot.

My old Duster 340-4spd-4.10 MP508 combo was never a torque monster either. But I didn't care about sitting at a stop spinning the tires endlesssly.

I Went to start my ca yesterday. Got it going ok check my timing I set at 18 int. When i ran it up to 36 total my timing marks were 10deg before not at zero When i adjusted my timing gun got it at zero when i reach 39 total. Ran very well shut off restarted started right up. Of coarse didn't run that long. The secondarys will not out any fuel to the rear of the carb not sure why it worked last year i believe. A freind is suppose to bring up a holley 600 see what happens my dist springs should be here today. I really dont want to change the rear gears would cost alot. My vacuum reading at idle was 7 yesterday is was steady.

Your opinion do you think i should change the cam and if you do what type. I woulld have to pull the engine someone told me one of my cam bearings is alittle crooked lowering my oil pressure. Kevin

No this was a freind of his He build a drag races it every weekend I figured he new what he was doing. I had read some good mopar books and they all send that couldn't find no one to help so i listen to him not nowing what to do. Unless you were racing it. no need my fault ok thanks for all your help appreiciate it will keep working at it Thanks Kevin

Ok Thanks will continue by the secondarys fuel problem had the vacuum gauge hooked up had no vacuum to secodarys. time to go back to motor's 101 Thanks Kevin

Hi Well my springs came today put them in not to bad. There was one big spring and one little spring in the dist. When i opened the weights only the little spring open up. the big one did nothning. So replacedthem both. Ran it up to 2500rpm and set timing light got 35 total before vacuum ran out. sounded real good got it nice and warm and restarted with no problem. Thanks Kevin

As I was turning the Dist I set my timing light to 35 when i got the timing marks to hit zero. I tried to see if would advanve further passed zero but the timing marks stayed at zero. leaving me a total of 35. Can you tell me about the bigger spring in the dist it wasn't doing anything when i open the weights by hand. The little one open up. Just wondering sounded great. thanks Kevin

Well first thing you need to do is get a double pumper and get rid of that vacuum secondary carb. DP's are much easier to tune and preform way better. You simply aren't getting the fuel needed to make it run. I'd do a 750 dp right out of the box and see what you got. Tuning will be necessary.

With my vaccumm hooked up my total was 35 My Int is 19 seems to be ok.

Do you think i should go with a DP 750 Just wondering. With my carb when i screw my metering rods in all the way its still running not good but still is. Thanks for all your help Kevin

You'd want 35 WO vac. I was wondering why it did not ping w both of the MP light springs out of the cellophane pkg in there and you'd want to do the subsystmes in order & it'll take a fair amt of work but there's alot of gain to b had w timing

So leave the vaccuum unhooked and plugged threw out the timing process .
Int unplugged adjust till it gets to 18 etc. Leave plugged and do the same for total to. Is there a trick to it never have done it before. Thanks

Ok Think i have a problem I set my initial at 18 with my vac unhooked took rpm up to 3000 rpm My timing light showed 17 I was at zero on the pulley tried other initial settings if i took it down to 8 or 10 and put rpm to 3000 vac unhook i dialed the timing light to 35 and it showed 10 before had to dial timing light back and zero showed up at 20 total timing has to be way off at chain and cam. There was no way to get total at 35 kevin

Dial back light and you subbed in both light springs? Keep vac adv unhooked/plugged for initial and total. You set your initial at 18 (18 on the knob/damper appearing at TDC right?) then when you run it up to where it wont advance anymore what is showing on the knob w dampener appearing at TDC?.

Ok Set int timing no vacuum plugged 18 on damper zero on timing light.

Turned up engine to 3500 rpm and turned dial on timing light. To get the zero at tdc the light showed 23 total Really have no clue at this point. Are the mechanical weights in thge dist opening not sure. any idea kevin

that's correct how you checked it & you'd want 35 total for a good baseline so take the cap off & twist the rotor CW & see roughly how much travel you have in other words if it's hanging up & related but not to confuse the issue you have the 2 light springs in there now? EDIT what RPM did you check the initial at? I'm wondering if you are into the springs at idle

Hi

Just checked the rotor moved cw about 1/4 of a turn thats all hard to move.

My RPM at Idle was 800 rpm vac plugged the dial on the timing light was at 23 when it hit zero on damper,

describe the 1/4 turn? If the rotor is at 12 o'clock how far will it turn? Even w the heavy sp w the long loop still in there at that rpm, 3500 right? I'm still not grasping why only 5 deg of mech adv. What springs are in it?

Ok

The rotor tip facing back moved 1/4 inch very little

The have the 2 new springs in it now very thin the heavy one is in the box

with initial 18 vac plugged ran engine uo to 3500 dialed timing light dial to 35 would not go to zero on the damper. When i went up with the dial like 36 37 38 39 40 the zero on damper was getting father away. when i went down it started moving towards zero when it got to 23 it was at zero tdc

I never noticed the actual ballpark distance on that but I'm thinking it should move more than 1/4". All you posted is correct. I'd loosen the dist clamp & turn the housing so you can see down past the 2 plates to check both slots & see if the pins are not hung up or the slots have not been welded up as you twist the rotor again & you'll have to turn the housing to 2 different places to check both slots and as you know you'll need to retime when your done. If nothing is obvious you may have to take off/out the reluctor/plates again. EDIT I checked my '67 "Glenns" manual & no 340 that early but every dist I saw has way more than 5 deg mechanical (slots) so we're missing something right in front of us

I pulled the dist apart torn it down check everything the slots are clear and the pins are moving freely. I can pull on both weights and they move ok and so does the springs.

We may need to lengthen the slots as we need to get to 35. The 23 as is, is killing the cyl psi

hould I look for another dist.? Mech or Vac This is a stock dist been around for awhile. what would be a good Dist to look for, using a point dist with a pertronix 2 inside what do you think

lets work w what we have. Want vac adv. look at the chart in the archives for how long to file the slots to & use a rattail file to elongate yours. If you are comfortable w 18 initial then want ~8.5 dist degrees to give 17 more at the crank. reportedly the archive chart is close but not dead on so go a bit less to start w and I'm sure the springs will need to be changed so you will be back in there and you can grind the "tips" of the weights to slow the curve after you get the total set in lieu of sourceing a heavier spring as 2 light MP ones MAY be too fast as is but the subsystems must b done in order. initial/total/springs/vac adv

Do you still have the distributor apart? In a Chrysler built distributor there is s number stamped near the advance slots (underneath). Multiply by two will be crankshaft degrees. Look at the slots and seee if someone welded or brazed up the slots.

With the distributor apart, but springs and weights installed, push on the wieght with the light spring as if its was moving out with centrificgal force. It should rotate the slot armature unil the loop of the long spring has no slack. There should still be a 1/3 to just a little bit of the slot left at that point. On some mopar high porformance distributors the heavy spring lets the advance continue very slowly preventing bounce and offseting any retard caused by stretching and twisting components. This is how the mechanical tach drive distributors were made. On a more run of the mill distributor, the heavy spring just shaped the advance curve.

Based on the specs you've given, everything else seems pretty good. I ran 340 with comcams HE280, 9 something compression and singleplane street dominator, and yes a 3310 on top. Now I'm running a similar engine with the LD340. 18 degrees is a good ballpark initial and 34 or so is a good initial target for 2800+ rpm. One thing I didnt notice was if you had a 4 speed or 727. I used a torque converter with 3000 stall. I've had that reduced to 2700 or so and its not as good - much harder to dial in the timing and carb especially with the 10% ethenal mixed gasoline. I'd say a high stall TC is required for your combo just as it was for mine (or higher gears, or , or or )

Cheap way is find used (in good shape) or parts store rebuild. Or if yours is in good shape then just finda few others so you can take parts out (and get the slots you want). The MP distributors used to be a good bang for the buck but not sure how that will work out with the Pertronix.

Good Morning

Ok on the slots there's a R15. When i open my weights the pins go all the way to the end towards the weight.There's no room at end of slot. Pin goes all the way. Weight's are almost touching inside of case.The slot bar does not rotate stays straight.Really not alot of room in there. But for sure there's no room at end of slot. Kevin

I found another point Dist in the shop. This one has R19 on the bar with the slots. Alot of slop in the shaft. I noticed that these slots point down at the end not completey straight like the first one. Any Idea's Also have a couple electronic Dist not sure if they would would. I changed to pertronixs because my orange box burnrd out and decided to change dont know if that was a good idea or not. Kevin

Slots: Slots are often at a slight angle. Thats OK.
Length: 15x 2 = 30 degrees of advance (distrinbutor turns at half the crank speed, I wrote it down backwords above)
Weights clearance to body: Yup - its small. Just make sure there is no wobble that would let them hit!

OK: It sounds like you found the problem. If I understand correctly..
Are both of the springs are loose when the weights are pushed in? That is, when the pins rest against the begining of the slots, is either spring helping hold it in?

Even if the the light spring is providing a little bit of pressure, what may be happening is that by idle rpm, lets say 500 for simplicity, the mechanism has already advanced 25 degrees. Now there's only 5 degrees left in the slots. Setting the initial timing of 18 at idle, the distributor advance then tops out at 23 degrees. It probably hits 23 by 1500 rpm.

Take the other distributor apart and see if you can figure out why the springs in #1 dizzy are not coming into action as they should. Wrong springs for this application, or someone bent the loops, or something.

When set up correctly, the light spring should be strong enough to keep the weights from moving out unitl 700 - 800 rpm or even a little higher.

Exception is the old Direct Connection setup where they purposely used a super light spring with that long looped super heavy spring. Made it near impossible to set timing at idle. Timing was set at 'full' and everything at lower speed was just accepted for whatever it was.

You could use a similar approach to get around shortening the slots. But whether you do that or braze up/weld the slots, you first need to get both springs to help restrain the weights.

When you think you have it figureed out, install and measure the timing at 100 or 250 rpm intervals all the way until it stops advancing. If its going about 2500 or so, feel free to make it 500 or 1000 rpm intervals. be careful!

Put the R19 plate in & the diff angle of the slots is normal & when you do measure how long the slots are on the 1 you take out

I *think* the advance mechanism, weights, springs are interechangabel with the electronic distributors. Exception will be the later Mopar Performance version made by Mallory. (see some pictures on my website).

Well if you're OK with a ECU box, you could go back to the electronic distributor. You can use a parts store ECU for more reliability - or at least keep it as back up for one of the Street MP ECUs.
You're engine is such that a multi-spark, capacitive discharge ignition may be worth the expense. If you go with an MSD 6A, 6T, or 6C any of the distribuors you already have will work. You'll need a matching coil. Of course you'll still need to get the advance curve, so it only solves your current problem if you buy one of the more easily adjustable distributors.

edit: Its a time-money equation only you can answer. My inclination is to figure this out and get running.

I think I may have it, Your idle is 800 and the double MP light springs start advancing at ~600 so I think you're already into the slots at idle & if this is correct no wonder only 5 deg of mech was left. How about trying this, use the orig OE light spring plus the orig OE light spring from the dist you found (2 OE light springs) plus keep your current plate. this'll start at ~900 which is above your 800 idle. set the initial back to where it was, 18 right? then run it up & see what your total is (vac adv plugged as always) and at what RPM (for reference) it maxes out at

Ok

Will use the plate with the straight slots not bent at the end.??? Ok

Will take the smaller spring off the dist i found and use the smaller spring off the first Dist. I have the new ones i just got how about them. I cleaned everything up. Wait for your reply. By using the plate i've been using I've put 2 new springs light on that already ended up at 23. So your saying use the light springs that were in Dist I got ya just making sure kevin

You also might want to think about a dizzy from a place like FBO. They set up the distributor based on the engine requirements and you're good to go.

Yes 30 crank deg from the plate is going to b way too much. I'm thinking you do not want to mess w brazing the slots shorter so I'd get the plate from FBO (should b cheap) that lets you limit the adv & want 8.5 in the dist (17 at crank) along w your 18 initial. I think if your idle sp is below where the curve starts you will b good and I'd actually snip 1 coil off of 1 end of each of the OE springs (snip 1 end only of each spring) which'd slightly raise the kick in point then w your needlenose pliers bend a new loop out like it was. You've gotta alot of info coming at ya , holler how it turns out & what the solution ends up being

Hi

Been quite busy today I did change the springs Ran it at 18 seem very rough running was smooter than that before. I'm doing a oil change in the morning and will check total then. I did put 1 OE back in the other was in pretty bad shape. So i put a new light one in probably not the right thing will check see what happens. Of coarse The carb might need some work after this. will see keep you informed. If you think what i did was wrong let me know I can order a new spring. Theres a speed shop in a couple towns over that can run that on a dist machine. Probably worth the money. Let me know Kevin

Will let you know tomorrow late morning see how things go. Thanks for all your help everyone. When i tried to start it left the dist where it was before didn't want to start advanced the dist started right up when i put the timing light on it damper read 25 put it back to original mark wouldn't start wierd any idea So when it was running put the marks back to 18 ran ok while idling so wouldn't start at 18 but would idle at 18 ok

starts at 25 & runs ok at 25 but wont start at 18 but runs ok at 18. Not sure where to go from here

When I get back tomorrow will spend more time with it. Let you know.

You're shooting in the dark 'cause you didn't figure out what was going on inside.
The only thing you changed by changing springs was the shape of the curve.
My suggestion is either
a) take the dizzy to the distributor machine and pay the man to work on it.
b) Call FBO and have him send you a distributor.
c) get some paper and pencil, measure, and figure out what is going on so you can make the changes needed.
- since its on the car, start by measuring the curve with the timing light. With the car running, set the timing whereever it runs OK. Measure the timing at as low of an rpm as possible, then measure every 100 or 200 or even 250 rpm until it stops advancing. Use the throttle screw if you dont ahve a helper. Reset your idle speed and PLOT the curve on graph paper or a spreadsheet program while the engine is cooling down.
- Take the distributor apart and move the weights to see when the springs engage. Check the pins in the slots for side play. Measure the starting points of the slots - compare with the other plate you have. Examine the springs to see if the lengths are different from the other distributor. Measure and write it down.
- With the above, you can then figure out what is going on and what needs to be done.
- You may still want to take it to the distributor shop because using two short loop springs in that slot take some time and experimentation to get the 18 at idle. It will never be a stable timing at idle for reasons I explained earlier. Also idle timing will be different than your initial as explained before. This will make more sense after you plot out the curve.
- If you happen to have a super heavy long loop spring of just the right loop length, you may be able to use the 30 degree slots as is. This is still a lot of testing easier done on the machine.
- the simple way to set up the distributor is to shorten or buy the slots needed for this motor. Knowing which side of the slots to shorten depends on the relation of the springs, weights and slots.

Ok Checked the dist getting about 28 total. I;ve decided to order a new Dist from fpo I really want to get this right finally. Its to nice of a car to cheap out. Will let you know how i make out. I really
apppreciate all the influence from everyone Thanks Kevin

I Purchased a new Dist setup from FPO Yesterday. With spring coming didn't want to mess to long. P/up ECU Coil Dist Wires. When I get it will let you guys know how i made out. Kevin

Well been working alot lately Had a chance to work somemore on the engine. I haven't received the new dist yet so I figure i'd look at what i had. Checked around the intake and noticed DS by #6 was leaking did not notice before. Pulled the intake of the car cleaned everything up put a straight edge on the intake and the heads. Everything good The old gaskets were metal type. Put a better set of gaskets on. and checked the carb while off floats needed adjustment. Carb still not right. But runs better my vacuum is now at 10in my int timing is 18 and my total is 37 My idle is 800rpm Starts better there is i reduse my int timimg say 14 can get 35 but hard starting. I thing with a better carb would solve my problems. Kevin

PS When I hooked the vaccuum gauge to the carb got a vaccuum reading of 5in on the venturi port.

Progress! Gonna be interesting to see what specs Don plugs into your dist. Do get the timing taken care of b 4 the carb

Will Do It is burning rich right now I pulled all the plugs 2-4-6-8

were all fouled dry. 1-5-7 were good 3 was fouled dry put new plugs in today helped but wondering about the carb.

set the floats (slight dribble w you rock the car when it's idling)/check for blown power valve/jetting in the ballpark. Yes dist/timing 1st but dont want the carb way out of whack EDIT I'm assuming they're fouled from working the throttle (accel pump) alot as you've been working on this quite abit

Ok

Worked on the Carb today I pulled the carb off. A freind let me borrow a good card today. When I pulled mine off the top of the gasket was gas soaked. So I had another gasket to put on. Put my freinds on really didn't perform any better than mine This was a holley 750 double pumper way to much carb for my car. So I pulled it off and there was no gas on the gasket put mine back using same gasket Adjusted the floats and the Idle air screws actually ran pretty good. No hesitation at all My int at 18 vac 14 mechanical advance or total was around 40 stil not to good Hope its better with new carb from FPO.

Well got everything put in and was able to get running. I tried to keep my Int at 18 but was having trouble get my total at 34. When i set my total at 34 my int was 25 could back timing off but didn't seem to run as good. Any idea's must be doing something wrong. It does start right up when i leave it where int at 25 runs very rich lots of blue smoke out back. Ok let me know Kevin

set the initial at 18 & adj/file the slots (not famil w Dons dizzys) to get 34 total (both set w vac adv disconnected/plugged)

He told me on the phone that it will be all set up ready to go and install. Did not have to do anything will call him in morning. Will let you know. Kevin

Well got the Distributor adj. Int 19 Total 34 idle 800 vaccuum 8in. Will need a new carb I believe don't know much about them. Turn mixture screws all the way in keeps running. Adjusted the floats front and rear rocks it alittle bit of gas comes out. Starts right up looking in carb it is dry . Tried to adjust screws dont do anything at all.holley 750 single feed Probably to much carb for engine.

Well got Distributor working right. Now will need to update my 750 single feed carb. nOT IN GOOD SHAPE PLUGS ARE BURNING RICH. What carb would work good for my engine.

340
LD340
X-heads
trw pistons 40 over
h-beamm rods
stock crank

Thinking maybe holley 650 DP any thought's

I have a similar combo. I run a Holley 650 DP. Car lost ET with a 750 Holley. Much better throttle response with the smaller carb too.

Hi
Put a new Holley 650 DP Straighten everything out. My Vaccuum is 10in My Int is 22 Total 34 Runs and starts great. Do these numbers sound alright.?? Thanks Kevin