I am looking at trying to bring back the luster and shine to an original finish on a 68 Black Charger. Were these cars painted with an enamal finish? What would be a safe way to go about getting the best results with out taking a chance of doing damage to the paint. The car has not been waxed or cleaned in many, many years.

Thanks
Dan

Pics? My 68 Charger is getting new base/clear black. I`ve never seen an original black 68.

Becarefull, after 40 years the paint is probably a bit thin.

I have brought back many paint finishes by using polishing compound (and/or rubbing compound for more difficult inperfections in the paint).
The process needs to be done by hand (no machines). You will not end up with a "perfectly flat, show car finish" but you will likely end up with restored original paint. The problem with machine refinishing is that it tends to cut the high, but because of inconsistent paint film thin areas can be cut into the primer coats. Your paint is original only once and by hand (cutting and) polishing one can control the amount of cut and not wear the paint thin.
The process I use is akin to wet sanding using heavy felt glued to equal sized pieces of truck tire(inner) tube,and then optionally a smaller square of indoor/outdoor carpet, a very flat palm of a hand and adequate amounts of (cutting or) polishing compound and water. After the (cut and) polish the area (I do about a square foot at a time) is cleaned well with clean terry cloth and finally waxed with high carnuba content wax.
Others may have similar processes, all of which take time and attention to what is being done (removing a very thin layer of paint).

Not reason not to use a buffer "IF" you know how to use one properly.

Other wise its safer to do it by hand.

Before





After

Just take your time, develop a feel.. watch, watch and watch again. Get a vial of touch up for the inevitable [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean]-up or burn through. If it's a single stage paint which it should be, you can touch up and it will be invisible. The pic below is original 1964 paint. I wet sanded with 2k paper and soap. Then buffed with Meguiar's using three stages, started with diamond cut and a foam wheel, enede with show car glaze, then wax.

Slow and careful it will look great.

Ritchie

1 more

Get the car in the shade and wash small sections with a terry cloth rag and Comet. Yah, the bathroon cleansing powder. Use the new formula that doesn't scratch. It's super mild, yet cuts through dirt and age-old, stuck on grime. Work in circular patterns and use even presure. It is especially effective on white and light colored cars, but works great on dark colors too. Rinse well, and don't do it in the sun. Also, only sprinkle it on the cloth not the car.

After you've done the entire car (glass, chrome and rubber) and rinsed well; wash the whole car with a bucket of warm water and a half a cup of kerosene. Buff to a brilliant shinewith a terry cloth towel. It will also help combat rust formation in the nooks and crannies.
For you non-believers, try it on an inconspicus area and you too will become a believer. It's all I use on all my vehicles.

Wash car using a mild soap (intended for use on cars) to remove the loose dirt/ grime, follow with a quality clay bar system. (mother's, meguire's, etc.) will probably require more than one bar of clay if the paint has been neglected for decades. After removing all the oxidation/contaminates with the clay bar, finish up using a cleaner type wax followed by a quality wax of your choice. Very little chance of cutting through the paint and keeping the factory orange peel at the same time. Just my