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Luckily there are substantial amount of P7 heads being stashed and somebody making blocks that will accomodate them.

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I've seen that first hand. They are stacked like cord wood. And I'd say where I seen them, there were at least 6 full cords

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my
most mopar guys are to cheap to spend the coin on a high end build.
they rely on companys to spit out mass production stuff or buy older tech knowledge hoping to compete with other brands, this is where you need to go out side the box on a build.

i will have more in my P7 heads and intake when they come back from Slawko then most on here have in there entire motor.

and you are not going to get the knowledge from what i call your average hack builder/assembler

you need to aline your self with high end builders that has done them and proved that they are the best.

and for the R5 cast block its a siamesed bore that can be bored 4.250 no problem and is fully skrited with 6 bolt billet mains/sealed cam tunnel with a 60 mm roller, perfect valve train geo. and a 20 bolt head. it dont get any better than that other than the open deck design which is like a desiel motor and they put tons of boost to them with no problems, so i dont see why you couldnt put boost to a R5 also.
REI that speacializes in turbo builds near me looked at my R5 block when they flowed my Davis heads and said they wouldnt be scared to do a boosted deal with one, and make ALOT of power no problem.

R5 blocks are everywhere for sale, just need to contact the right guys.

Bob

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I have to Agree with BOB!!
1: It's knowing who to talk to
2: Don't be a cheap-aXX!!

When I finally decided to get serious about my Turbo Build and get an R3 and W9's. Mopar was selling W9's for $900/pr and their R3 was in the middle of a 2yr freeze. Got a pair on myshelf that I can't give away cause no one wants to spend the money to set them up to use. Sorry but be it Ford or Chevy or Mopar, Head parts all cost the same.

I just by Chance found a 468" (P4876673) short block one night on here for $6500. Had a Billet crank. aluminum rods and Ross Pistons. Knowing what I was going to do and what was in the block. $6500 was a smoking deal!! Even addressing the fact that the Rods and Pistons would probably be useless to me.

Before I got home (Texas to Va and back) I had a Message on my phone about some heads that might fit my build. W9-RPs fully dressed for a sprint car. After doing some research and getting the details figured out. The $4200 asking price again was a steal for what I got. And I have recently found out that what I got in the W9-RP heads is more than I thought I was getting when I bought them. The W9-RP is actually the same as the Chevy SB2 heads to the point that a well known builder (not a Mopar builder either) uses the same port program for both heads. The SB2s are what the FAST small block chevy guys run.

I also got a chance to actually get a set of SB2's in my hand and look them over. They are just like the W9-RP. The guy that had them in his shop told me his customer had almost Twice as much in them as I had in mine for the exact same capability of parts.

So the Engine parts are out there and rather easy and not too expensive to come by!!(No more than the Ford or Chevy equivalent) I know Mopar still makes the P4876673 Block and I think you can still get the W9-RP heads from them. If you can't make enough power with those 2 you need a new engine builder or alot more cubes!!

Far as the Cars themselves!!! Yeah we are kind of screwed on that one. To be competitive you need a car you can get down below 2400lbs. Which in my Personal selection would be the 1965-1975 Barracudas and Darts and Dusters or variations there of. All the ones I have looked at lately your going to pay $8000+ for a rust bucket with all the parts there.

If you like them some of the cars from the 80's fit the bill well and cheap BUT personally I think they are BUTT-UGLY!! That's just me!!

I personally got a '99 Dakota R/T at BondoBob's shop being hacked on for a tube chassis 25.3SFI and my 468 with Twins. Hopefully I'll get out of this desert some day to get it all together and enjoy.

That being said!!! The Ford and Chevy guys spend a lot more money than people think they do. My buddies 2005 Mustang in Outlaw 10.5 with a 665cui Disomma Ford and Twins cost him $200,000.

Now if your looking to get into this league of racing there are a few fiberglass door-slammer bodies out there to be had or built!! Again NOT CHEAP!!

Take a look at some of the builders web pages that build stuff for those Fast Chevies and Fords and you'll see that Mopar stuff is not off the mark in pricing!! Availability on the other hand? It's just knowing who to talk to. BUT Honestly it's that way in Chevy and Ford circles as well if your not running a class dictated set-up that everybody and there brother has copy of, that is still $40-90K

As for builders. Try looking out of the norm of people that are labeled as Mopar builders. I have about decided on who will put mine together when it comes that time and he isn't know for Building Mopars but those that he has make some serious power. (980hp on 420cui N/A)

Only place I could say that Mopar has a slight legit excuse is the availability of decent donor cars for a Race Build. But even that is negligible. I have seen many Prior Race Mopars for sale for less than $10k that if they weren't a Race car could have easily been Twice that.

On the Modern note. The GenIII hemi made 700hp at the engine masters challenge this year on crappy 91octane fuel. That being said; the 2008 Challnger isn't exactly the Model of aerodynamics for a race car or a lite-weight either. Nor cheap even for a wrecked one!! I looked hard and couldn't find even wrecked ones that were usable for less than $18,000.

Now quit the snivling and gette'rdun!! or just sit in the Bleachers and watch!!

If your driving a Mopar your probably someone that likes to be different from the Norm. (you would think that Thinking outside the box would be in there as well but some seem to miss that point) Being different has it's Cost so suck it up and pay the price and the dues!!

I would like to thank:
Leon, BondoBob, Mike Gray, and Chris Uratchko for helping me see the light and have faith in Mopar!! Also thanks to my Chevy and Ford buddies for letting me hang around and see what the Other-Guys are working with, take notes and see how they get it done!!

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Luckily there are substantial amount of P7 heads being stashed and somebody making blocks that will accomodate them.

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I've seen that first hand. They are stacked like cord wood. And I'd say where I seen them, there were at least 6 full cords

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I see i'm beating a dead horse here. I forgot Mopar people are cheap. I'm just tired of beating my head against the wall with the SB stuff. Spent a lot of money and we are still just a participant, I want to be the car to beat. Time to look more seriously at the Predator or 99 Hemi stuff. Flame on!

Mike Gray

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I see i'm beating a dead horse here. I forgot Mopar people are cheap. I'm just tired of beating my head against the wall with the SB stuff. Spent a lot of money and we are still just a participant, I want to be the car to beat. Time to look more seriously at the Predator or 99 Hemi stuff. Flame on!

Mike Gray

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Sorry for Dragging up an Old Post BUT: some new found Friends and Knowledge have shed some lights on your Comment. and I have to Agree!

Your right if your running a SB your just going to be another participant. Ask Billy Glidden: He's been pushing a SB Ford against all the others in his class for years and last 1-2 years finally admitted he's going to finally have to bite the bullet and go BIG or Go Home.

Only way your going to be the CAR TO BEAT with Mopar Power is 1 of 2 ways.

1: Indy Maxx 655 with Predator Heads and a Pair of 88-91mm Turbos out front.

2: Jon Kaase 820cui Mopar Hemi (He does Hemis in 3 flavors) and 3-5 stages of nitrous.

And have it in a car that's under 2800lbs.

There was a Guy out of Va that had a W9 headed single turbo Blow Through in an Avenger on Alcohol. Made a few 6.9 passes but haven't heard anything since. Had potential BUT no dedication I guess?

Problem with SB is the maintenance, and it ain't oil changes either.

Honestly when you get to those levels, I'd be calling on people like Sonny, Kaase, or Fulton.

Most of the guys that run their engines the only thing Ford or Chevy about their vehicles is the appearance.

I know 1 guy that has Run Fords, Chevies and Pontiacs and all had Fulton Power under the hood. That's all he'll run. He could car less what the actual car is.

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Kenny, those combinations are not legal for our local small tire class. We went to a dual disc clutch and Browell 8 5/8 can as well as putting the Dart on a 250 pound weight loss program. We went out last weekend for the first time this year and we weren't even close on the clutch, we will be testing tomorrow and racing Sat. if all goes well. Trying to make the best of what we have.

Mike Gray

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I see i'm beating a dead horse here. I forgot Mopar people are cheap. I'm just tired of beating my head against the wall with the SB stuff. Spent a lot of money and we are still just a participant, I want to be the car to beat. Time to look more seriously at the Predator or 99 Hemi stuff. Flame on!

Mike Gray

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Sorry for Dragging up an Old Post BUT: some new found Friends and Knowledge have shed some lights on your Comment. and I have to Agree!

Your right if your running a SB your just going to be another participant. Ask Billy Glidden: He's been pushing a SB Ford against all the others in his class for years and last 1-2 years finally admitted he's going to finally have to bite the bullet and go BIG or Go Home.

Only way your going to be the CAR TO BEAT with Mopar Power is 1 of 2 ways.

1: Indy Maxx 655 with Predator Heads and a Pair of 88-91mm Turbos out front.

2: Jon Kaase 820cui Mopar Hemi (He does Hemis in 3 flavors) and 3-5 stages of nitrous.

And have it in a car that's under 2800lbs.

There was a Guy out of Va that had a W9 headed single turbo Blow Through in an Avenger on Alcohol. Made a few 6.9 passes but haven't heard anything since. Had potential BUT no dedication I guess?

Problem with SB is the maintenance, and it ain't oil changes either.

Honestly when you get to those levels, I'd be calling on people like Sonny, Kaase, or Fulton.

Most of the guys that run their engines the only thing Ford or Chevy about their vehicles is the appearance.

I know 1 guy that has Run Fords, Chevies and Pontiacs and all had Fulton Power under the hood. That's all he'll run. He could car less what the actual car is.

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Kenny, those combinations are not legal for our local small tire class. We went to a dual disc clutch and Browell 8 5/8 can as well as putting the Dart on a 250 pound weight loss program. We went out last weekend for the first time this year and we weren't even close on the clutch, we will be testing tomorrow and racing Sat. if all goes well. Trying to make the best of what we have.

Mike Gray

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Kenny, we run a 28x10.5 (3055S) Mickey Thompson. Here are the rules for our class, heavy hitters are in the 5.00 to 5.20 ET range. We ran a 5.30 last year at 3240 pounds and a single disc clutch. We are now right at 3000 pounds.

http://king-of-the-streets.org/Street%20Race%20Rules%202011.htm

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Sorry, I would have to disagree about the W9's being the same as the GM SB2 heads. A well flowed CFE W8 head is around 420 @ 0.9 lift where a SB2.2 head @0.9 lift has been around 450.

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Sorry, I would have to disagree about the W9's being the same as the GM SB2 heads. A well flowed CFE W8 head is around 420 @ 0.9 lift where a SB2.2 head @0.9 lift has been around 450.

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Not my statement but a repeat of what an engine builder that has worked with both heads told me.

These were W9-RPs and SB2s. He said he used they same program on his CNC to port both.

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The only other head for a smallblock that would be better is the P5 and they don't make them anymore. Matt

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P5 Dodge

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The only other head for a smallblock that would be better is the P5 and they don't make them anymore. Matt

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P5 Dodge

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The only other head for a smallblock that would be better is the P5 and they don't make them anymore. Matt

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P5 Dodge

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Do they have the R4 blocks as well? OR would a Ritter XR-block work?

Are they having those made? Or are they getting them from who-ever in Australia started copying them?
I don't think that the XR block would work with the P5. If they could make it work then IMO you would have a winning combination. I an not sold on the P7 deal I don't think it would work as well as a P5. But what do I know. LOL

From what I read the Mopar castings were a bit thin, and tended to crack in the runners after porting.

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