the gentlemen with the fury in the pic wasnt going to do that. we made our own harness. we just posted pics to this thread because he was doing something similar to the 5.2 in the E body. this car (gold fury) used factory dakota wiring harness modified and the 5.2. he is trying to do this as simple as possible.

justin

Fired the car up for the first time tonight! Plugged in most of the harness, and tapped 12V off of the alternator and 12v ignition on source off of the old coil wire, temporarily. If you take out the ballast resistor and jumper the terminals you get full 12V on start and run position in the ignition switch. Still did not plumb a fuel system, just running it off of a pressurized tank for the moment. Now for permanent wiring since I know it works. Thanks to Justin (wldtm) for all of his help on this car

Keep these PINs per a 94 dakota service manual

PINS
1 map sensor
2 ECT sensor
3 Battery feed
4 sensor return
6 5v supply
7 8v supply
9 Ignition feed
10 not needed with 727
11 Ground
12 Ground
13 Inj Driver4
14 Inj Driver3
15 Inj Driver2
16 Inj Driver1
17 Inj Driver7
18 Inj Driver8
19 Ign Coil Driver
20 Gen Feild Driver
21 Air Temp Sensor
22 TP Sensor
24 Reference Pickup
25 Data link
27 AC compressor (if keeping AC)
29 Brake sense (if keeping cruise)
30 P/N switch
32 MIL
33 VSS (if keeping dakota cruise) we got rid of)
34 AC WOT relay (if keeping ac- we got rid of)
35 EGR Solenoid (we deleted EGR)
37 Trans OD light (we got rid of)
38 Inj Driver5
39 IAC
40 IAC
41 Heated O2 Sensor
43 Tach (we kept)
44 CMP sensor
45 Data llink
47 VSS pick up (we kept for now) KEEP 47-50, 53 keep if using dakota cruise
48 VSS set/coast (we got rid of)
49 VSS on/off (we got rid of)
50 VSS resume/accel
51 ASD relay and fuel pump relay driver
52 Evap purge (we got rid of)
53 VSS vent (we got rid of)
54 EMCC solenoid (we got rid of)
55 Trans OD solenoid (we got rid of) (keep if using 42rh or 46rh)
57 ASD bat supply
58 Inj Driver6
59 IAC
60 IAC

The best thing to do is build a wiring harness using a 94-95 dakota schematic. You will need an ASD and fuel pump relay socket. This is the part where you will need to do a little modifying.

It depends on how much stuff you want to keep. You could keep AC, overdrive trans, and cruise if you wanted to...

Use the vehicles stock sending unit to run gauges ex) temp, oil psi, volts

I can make this harness for interested parties

Found an oversight in my parts selection this afternoon. 5.2 and 5.9 magnums use the same oil pan, not like 318 vs 360 LA. When I first filled it with oil I had a leak and chalked it up to me screwing up the gasket install. After the second one this afternoon leaked I looked it up online and got conflicting stories. MP tech line confirmed that I need a 360 car pan instead of the 318 pan for the 5.2 or 5.9, and they said the one piece rubber gasket should work. Minor issue, but annoying!

Thanks for the heads up, I ordered the one piece and the old style gasket when I ordered the pan, just in case!

Plumbed the fuel lines on the Fury today and ran power to the pump and the fuel system is working. Used a mopar pump from the magnum mpi conversion kit, and an ls1 corvette filter with regulator. Without spending the big bucks on a sumped tank with internal pump, the fuel system isnt as clean as I had hoped, but it works. I drove the car around the block this afternoon, pretty pumped! Now to tidy up the wiring and hang an exhaust on it.

if you ever plan on putting in dual exhause you might want to re think that mount.

I put mine in without exhause and found that long idle times, like stop and go traffic will kill the pump. when it is that close.

Yeah, I actually took off one of the tailpipes from the duals that were on there to mount it there. To get the pump low enough, but still close to the tank that is one of the compromises I made. I figure if I upgrade the engine, I'll probably upgrade the fuel system to match with an in tank setup.