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Trans kickdown linkage update w/ pics
#915898
01/28/11 04:16 PM
01/28/11 04:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
OP
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OP
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
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what speed would you consider as a factory high stall? Manufacturer just said that a standard replacement, which is the only one they carry is 1800-2000. What would be a factory high_stall speed rating?
thanks
roe
Last edited by roe; 03/16/11 05:04 AM.
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
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Re: Factory hi_stall converter
[Re: Montclaire]
#915901
01/28/11 08:38 PM
01/28/11 08:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,704
MICHIGAN
DynoDave
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master
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MICHIGAN
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As an example, from the 1975 FSM: 318 w/904, 10.75", 2125rpm - 2425rpm stall 318 w/727, 11.75", 1725rpm - 2025rpm stall 360-2 or 360-4, 10.75", 2300rpm - 2600rpm stall 360-4 H.P., 10.75", 2200rpm - 2500rpm stall 400-2 or 400-4, 11.75", 1875rpm - 2175rpm stall 400-4 H.P., 10.75", 2400rpm - 2700rpm stall Note: There are three 440-4 engines listed, not denoting any difference other than converter size. Two with the same larger converter size have different stall speeds. I can only assume that the one with the higher stall speed is behind an H.P. engine, but through a printing error it is not shown as such. There should be one in the chart. I would also assume that the 440 with the small converter would also most certainly be an H.P. application. Why two different converters behind H.P. engines?  440-4, 11.75", 1975rpm - 2275rpm stall 440-4, 10.75", 2600rpm - 2900rpm stall 440-4, 11.75", 2100rpm - 2400rpm stall
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Re: Factory hi_stall converter
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#915903
01/28/11 11:31 PM
01/28/11 11:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
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ok, thanks a lot guys. I've been pricing a trans rebuild where I supplied the parts, but the most recommended shop near me suggested letting him do the converter in-house so that its covered under their warranty, and he asked me what stall speed I would want. For the car in my sig, 360/904, edelbrock performer intake, 4bbl edelbrock carb (1406 model IIRC) with 8 1/4 rear and 2.76 gears, what stall speed would you suggest. 1800-2000 or say 2000-2200 ish, or even higher. Hopefully in the future I will swap in a 2.94 or even a 3.23 gear at the most, but it won't be for a while, if that matters at all.
I posted a similar question before and the consensus was that a factory high stall would be good for me, but i never asked exactly what that stall speed was.
thanks again
roe
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
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Re: Factory hi_stall converter
[Re: roe]
#915904
01/29/11 01:58 AM
01/29/11 01:58 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,167
Maryland
GO_Fish
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master
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Posts: 6,167
Maryland
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to build the converter to the proper stall, the shop will need to know your exact cam specs, exact compression ratio, rear tire size (height), maybe a few other things also (you already mentioned your axle gear ratio). If he doesn't ask or care about the above information, he is building something more of a generic converter instead of a converter built to maximize performance. And he should be suggesting a decent auxillary trans cooler also. Cheaper converters in general will slip more and generate more heat than a better built model. So read up and proceed with caution/plenty of information.
Scott B.
"I'm a self-made man... I started with nothing, and I still have most of it!"
68 360 rusty B'cuda 'vert (GO Fish)13.59@ 98.72 mph
69 340 GTS stock 14.18@ 95.60 mph
01 5.9L Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4
01 3.5L 300M 16.23@ 86.97 mph
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Re: Factory hi_stall converter
[Re: GO_Fish]
#915906
01/29/11 05:36 PM
01/29/11 05:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
OP
master
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Central TX
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Quote:
to build the converter to the proper stall, the shop will need to know your exact cam specs, exact compression ratio, rear tire size (height), maybe a few other things also (you already mentioned your axle gear ratio). If he doesn't ask or care about the above information, he is building something more of a generic converter instead of a converter built to maximize performance. And he should be suggesting a decent auxillary trans cooler also. Cheaper converters in general will slip more and generate more heat than a better built model. So read up and proceed with caution/plenty of information.
I understand what you're saying, but I bought this motor from someone already assembled. I'll check the many reciepts I have for any part numbers that may give me more info, but I don't know how detailed that will be. It seems like a pretty much stock rebuild with better intake and bigger carb. It ran perfectly fine in some 87 octane that I had in the tank, even though I run 93 octane, so that makes me think comp ratio and cam are pretty tame, given the really smooth idle and LA heads. It's not really a performance build, just looking to make my daily driver a little more peppy/fun/respectable. Does this info help at all with a recommendation? Right now I'm leaning toward 2000-2200, that sound ok?Cheaper converters in general will slip more and generate more heat than a better built model. So read up and proceed with caution/plenty of information.
Last edited by roe; 01/29/11 05:41 PM.
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
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Re: Factory hi_stall converter
[Re: goldmember]
#915907
01/29/11 05:51 PM
01/29/11 05:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
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Central TX
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Quote:
Factory high stall would be ok with your combo. Who is building the transmission?
I haven't made a decision yet, just pricing and getting references right now. The shop I'm leaning towards, Danny's Transmissions, is a little more than the others, but not a crazy amount. I've contacted about 8 shops so far and two of those actually referred me to Danny's.
Last edited by roe; 01/29/11 08:15 PM.
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
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Re: Factory hi_stall converter
[Re: roe]
#915908
01/29/11 06:35 PM
01/29/11 06:35 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,167
Maryland
GO_Fish
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,167
Maryland
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Quote:
Quote:
to build the converter to the proper stall, the shop will need to know your exact cam specs, exact compression ratio, rear tire size (height), maybe a few other things also (you already mentioned your axle gear ratio). If he doesn't ask or care about the above information, he is building something more of a generic converter instead of a converter built to maximize performance. And he should be suggesting a decent auxillary trans cooler also. Cheaper converters in general will slip more and generate more heat than a better built model. So read up and proceed with caution/plenty of information.
I understand what you're saying, but I bought this motor from someone already assembled. I'll check the many reciepts I have for any part numbers that may give me more info, but I don't know how detailed that will be. It seems like a pretty much stock rebuild with better intake and bigger carb. It ran perfectly fine in some 87 octane that I had in the tank, even though I run 93 octane, so that makes me think comp ratio and cam are pretty tame, given the really smooth idle and LA heads. It's not really a performance build, just looking to make my daily driver a little more peppy/fun/respectable. Does this info help at all with a recommendation? Right now I'm leaning toward 2000-2200, that sound ok?Cheaper converters in general will slip more and generate more heat than a better built model. So read up and proceed with caution/plenty of information.
Okay. Please understand, I'm not trying to be a downer. I just know that the right converter for your package will put a smile on your face every time you mash the gas pedal. And the wrong converter will make your car a dog at which point you will be pulling the transmission again and changing the converter, or worse, you will loose interest in the project and sell it. And there is a lot of area between those 2 extremes also.
2000-2200 sounds reasonable, but is really a roll of the dice with experiences of others here helping to tilt odds to your favor. How much time will you spend operating the engine at or below 2200? If most of your driving is on the highway or at engine speeds above 2200 rpm, you should be okay. If most of your driving is in the city, a 2200 stall could cause a lot of transmission heat from slipping and hurt your gas mileage pretty bad also.
Scott B.
"I'm a self-made man... I started with nothing, and I still have most of it!"
68 360 rusty B'cuda 'vert (GO Fish)13.59@ 98.72 mph
69 340 GTS stock 14.18@ 95.60 mph
01 5.9L Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4
01 3.5L 300M 16.23@ 86.97 mph
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Re: Factory hi_stall converter
[Re: GO_Fish]
#915909
01/29/11 08:10 PM
01/29/11 08:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
OP
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OP
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Central TX
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No you're not being a downer, that's why I started this post, so I can get advice from those with more knowledge/experience with this than me. I dont do an outrageous amount of highway/long distance driving, but with this being my daily driver its the car I use when I do. So even with an auxillary trans cooler you think that will slip too much and cause excessive heat? would the 1800-2000 be better for me?
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
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Re: Factory hi_stall converter
[Re: roe]
#915910
01/29/11 08:28 PM
01/29/11 08:28 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,167
Maryland
GO_Fish
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,167
Maryland
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excessive heat kills transmissions, so a good trans cooler will help get the extra heat out of the transmission. I'd consider it a must have, cheap insurance. You can even get used ones from the pick and pull. If you find yourself stuck in 20 mph traffic in town, stop and go, and your rpm's are below your stall speed, you can manually shift down to 1st or 2nd gear and hold it there until you get out of traffic, and that will probably increase above your stall speed, but will suck down gas also that way. Whether you choose 1800-2000, or 2000 - 2200, I'd say too close to pick with certainty without specifics on your engine and the rest of the package. The vehicle weight also plays into this. All of my experience is with lighter A bodies, so a B will want a little different stall.
Last edited by GO_Fish; 01/29/11 09:26 PM.
Scott B.
"I'm a self-made man... I started with nothing, and I still have most of it!"
68 360 rusty B'cuda 'vert (GO Fish)13.59@ 98.72 mph
69 340 GTS stock 14.18@ 95.60 mph
01 5.9L Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4
01 3.5L 300M 16.23@ 86.97 mph
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Re: Factory hi_stall converter
[Re: roe]
#915911
01/29/11 08:29 PM
01/29/11 08:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
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Ok guys, I read back over this post and some similar ones by me and others and have decided to go with the 1800-2000 stall speed, with the engine specs that I can supply him. I will also check my reciepts and see if I can come up with more. I will have a trans cooler aswell. Anyone object to this?
thanks
roe
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
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Re: Factory hi_stall converter
[Re: GO_Fish]
#915912
01/29/11 08:36 PM
01/29/11 08:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
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Quote:
excessive heat kills transmissions, so a good trans cooler will help get the extra heat out of the cooler. I'd consider it a must have, cheap insurance. You can even get used ones from the pick and pull. If you find yourself stuck in 20 mph traffic in town, stop and go, and your rpm's are below your stall speed, you can manually shift down to 1st or 2nd gear and hold it there until you get out of traffic, and that will probably increase above your stall speed, but will suck down gas also that way. Whether you choose 1800-2000, or 2000 - 2200, I'd say too close to pick with certainty without specifics on your engine and the rest of the package. The vehicle weight also plays into this. All of my experience is with lighter A bodies, so a B will want a little different stall.
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
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