I've got a question about the Mopar Performance voltage regulator, the "race only" one, like this http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/312/312-P3690732.jpg

I converted to the electronic ignition with that blue "race only" box in the summer and not much after (within a week) had an electrical problem that burned up my IGN 1 wire (the blue wire with the white tracer that runs from the ignition switch to the regulator, and over to the ballast resistor). I fixed the wiring, went through the entire harness, drove the car once sucessfully. Next time I went to take it out the battery was absolutely no good, wouldn't even turn the dome light on with jumpers hooked to it.

I replaced the battery and the next time out I had an overcharging problem (ran almost half to the charge side), accompanied by a surging condition after a while of driving. I was at a stop light and noticed the gauge flickering a little with the turn signal on. Turned on the radio and it went a little lower, still not on the discharged side. Headlights on, it goes a little further. Flashers on and it goes all the way to the discharge side and dies. Fired it back up and got it home. Repeated the same thing in the driveway and got the same result, instant discharge and it died.

Heres my question, is that regulator my problem? I know a guy who runs them on all of his cars, but they are all pre 70 and have the stock, low amp alternators. My car has a dual field (with one field grounded) that is 60 or 65 amps, maybe even 70. I know its well above the stock 37 amp that my car came with (67 B Body).

""I was at a stop light and noticed the gauge flickering a little with the turn signal on. Turned on the radio and it went a little lower, still not on the discharged side. Headlights on, it goes a little further. Flashers on and it goes all the way to the discharge side and dies.""

I just experienced the same thing this past Summer. I had been running the blue regulator for the past couple of years and I did not have much of a problem until this past Summer when I started using the headlights, windshield wipers and such during driving conditions (in the past I usually drive the car during the nice days only. This past Summer I started getting the car ready to drive more often). What I found was that the blue regulator does not allow the voltage to go above the 13.5 or so, it is a constant output unit. So when I was at a stop with the accessories on, the car was not getting enough output to handle the extra load. My car would start missing and then slowly die unless I shut off all of the accessories. I then bought a NAPA replacement regulator and then the car started charging higher than the 13.5 when the extra load was added.

Note: Since then, I added a Powermaster 75A alternator to help out too at idle.

the later kind unit ?

I converted my Ignition system in my 1968 dodge charger hemi car and one time it pegged my amp guage and i had to drive home with the heater on and the headlites on during daylight. Got stopped by police for having my headlites on during daylight and showed policeman my amp guage pegged. the darn thing boiled all the water out of my barrery ruining the paint job underside of the hood. I scrapped the electronic ignition and put back original never having problem again. That blue box mopar regulator is good for keeping spark from the coil up but not any good for body functions. bob horman 708 687 1187

My question to you people is. Why are you running a "Race Only" unit in a street car? It's no wonder your having problems!

I used that blue one for a while. I had issues with two or three of them before I went to the electronic version of the old black box type (69 Road Runner). So far for the last three years, no issues.

I've been using the blue regulator (not the race unit) from MOPAR for about 15 years without any problems on my service truck...oh yes, I still use a point distributor.

It doesn't reduce the voltage when the temp increases which is needed to not overcharge but some people esp w high draws as said have used it w no (reported) probs to the batt but over time it sure could shorten it's life but it'd be hard to pin it down to that (the blue reg) if the batt only lasted 3 years instead of 5 like the last batt (of the same type) as quality control is always a prob (& always suspect) EDIT best to feed hi amp items from the alt side (w relays) w a medium sized batt on the other side

""Why are you running a "Race Only" unit in a street car? It's no wonder your having problems!""

In my case, it raised the voltage to the coil since it was always 13.5 volts. My stock regulator would put out lower volts and I would get lower volts at the coil as a result. At that time, I was trying to keep as much voltage at the coil with my old ballast setup that I could get and it worked for that as long as I did not use any of the accessories (lights, wipers, etc like a race car would in the pits).
I have since removed the ballast system and gone with a 12v coil. Since I am using more accessories now than before, the blue regulator is now my backup to a NAPA stock replacement unit.

I have used the blue box before without problems.
I think what might be happening, is the box has a bad ground connection and putting maximum voltage out to the field windings (not regulating.)

More specific, with a bad ground the box voltage reference thinks the voltage is less than what it actually is, so it allows more power to the alternator trying to increase the output voltage (which it does), but the bad ground prevents the box from seeing this increased voltage.

The later style regulator for the dual connection field regulates through the ground path, opposed to the power path like the older style/blue box does. So if the later style box had a bad ground connection the box may try to increase the alternator field current, but the bad ground prevents the current from flowing, so you get a no-charge condition as opposed to an over-charge condition like you are seeing with the older style regulator.

I often run a 16AWG or larger ground wire from the regulator case to the engine block to make sure this dosen't happen. use one of the star washers between the regularor case and wire lug/bolt so the washer cuts through the paint and makes a good contact.

The same type of ground wire works good for the ignition boxes too.

Not really.

Same thing happened to me when the black regulator on my 71 power wagon's 383 went south. I installed the blue race box from Summit & it boiled my battery. Went back to the stock one & much better, but finally scrapped it for a one wire, 100 amp alternator & great results & bright lights.

I've been useing the Mopar Blue constsnt out put regulator with chrome box for years. Never skipped a beat. Been on this car 3 years and my last 440 six barrel car for 5 years. I allways make sure i have good grounds. Never had any problems. Local speed shop here is mostly mopar guys and they install them with every mopar ECU. I've only used the mopar part never used the summit or other aftermarket brands.

Back in the 80's I used the blue regulator that was recommended by Direct Connection, for use with their electronic ignition system. I am guessing this is the same part. It worked fine for many years. I can see why constant voltage could be bad but I am a little confused on this topic. Looks like many of us are. The simple solution is to buy the transistorized regulator sold right here. I bought one for my latest project and can't say myself on it's graces but it's been for sale here for awhile and nothing but good response. Price is right too. Also looks stock and plugs right in where the old one came out. Just saying.

Thanx Rick,