I have 67 Dart, I'm having problems with the fuel gauge. At first, it wasn't working at all. I picked up a new voltage limiter and a used fuel gauge at Carlisle. I had the guy at auto instruments check the gauge and re-calibrate it and it worked fine. I put it all back in the car and now the gauge goes straight to full, and it's not full. Is the cluster supposed to be grounded? if so How...

if you pull the wire off the sending unit(w key on) does the gauge drop to E? & if you ground it(w key on) does the gauge read the same place(F) as in your description?

I unplugged the sending unit and then turned the key on and the gauge stayed on empty. I plugged it back in and turned the key on and it went straight to full again. Now what?

Thanks, Roger...

Shorted or badly adjusted float.

I'm with Stumpy,take sending unit out & if float isn't waterlogged move it thru it's range of travel(hot wire hooked up AND the unit grounded & key on) & see how far off the gauge reads now.

I hear ya, and I will try that but, before I changed the gauge and the voltage limiter, it wouldn't move at all, stayed on empty. What could be shorted just by changing those two thing?

I have the same thing going on with my 74 Charger SE. I had a perfectly good working fuel gauge, then changed the cluster (to get the 150MPH spedo) and now the gauge lives on full. Can't wait to see what the fix is for this one.

A mopar will stay on E if it dosent have a ground.It goes dead full if the sender is shorted to ground.Thats why you test it by unhooking it and grounding the gauge wire.Sounds like the sender is shorted to ground.Rocky