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that's a 350HP motor , the 02502 doesn't look like a factory stamping , probably a number added by shop that rebuilt it .

How do you know it has a forged crank ?

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that's a 350HP motor , the 02502 doesn't look like a factory stamping , probably a number added by shop that rebuilt it .

How do you know it has a forged crank ?

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The thickness of the balancer?
If it is HP why no HP stamp?

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Ok you are ASSUMING it has a forged crank. I'm pretty sure there is a thread here somewhere where a member bought a 69 440 that was done by a mass rebuilder of sorts ... it has a CAST CRANK .

HP means HORSE POWER , that is NOT a 440 375 Horsepower engine block , what it is NOW is anyones guess. I assume you bought it as it sits ????

Why isn't there 5 replies with a picture of a car that has nothing to do with your question ?

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that's a 350HP motor , the 02502 doesn't look like a factory stamping , probably a number added by shop that rebuilt it .

How do you know it has a forged crank ?

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The thickness of the balancer?
If it is HP why no HP stamp?

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Ok you are ASSUMING it has a forged crank. I'm pretty sure there is a thread here somewhere where a member bought a 69 440 that was done by a mass rebuilder of sorts ... it has a CAST CRANK .

HP means HORSE POWER , that is NOT a 440 375 Horsepower engine block , what it is NOW is anyones guess. I assume you bought it as it sits ????

Why isn't there 5 replies with a picture of a car that has nothing to do with your question


It was a high performance motor when produced or it was not or you cannot tell from the stampings? That was my compound question. Oh ok -- it is 350 horse power engine... dah
Can you tell if it is a steel crank by the balancer?

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This thread is proof that Chevy guys shouldn't "restore" Mopars. For all the chest thumping he does on the board, he sure doesn't know the basics about the hobby.

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You are still sore over the "survivor" reference months ago. I am calling it a steel crank, as i called the Charger a survivor. Until, some other member enlightens me.

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I am calling it a steel crank,

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I am calling it a steel crank,

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no offense, but call it all you want, but until you pull the pan , your guessing.
You already have pretty substantial proof it's been opened up

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that's a 350HP motor , the 02502 doesn't look like a factory stamping , probably a number added by shop that rebuilt it .

How do you know it has a forged crank ?

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The thickness of the balancer?
If it is HP why no HP stamp?

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Ok you are ASSUMING it has a forged crank. I'm pretty sure there is a thread here somewhere where a member bought a 69 440 that was done by a mass rebuilder of sorts ... it has a CAST CRANK .

HP means HORSE POWER , that is NOT a 440 375 Horsepower engine block , what it is NOW is anyones guess. I assume you bought it as it sits ????

Why isn't there 5 replies with a picture of a car that has nothing to do with your question


It was a high performance motor when produced or it was not or you cannot tell from the stampings? That was my compound question. Oh ok -- it is 350 horse power engine... dah
Can you tell if it is a steel crank by the balancer?

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I am calling it a steel crank,

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no offense, but call it all you want, but until you pull the pan , your guessing.
You already have pretty substantial proof it's been opened up

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No offense taken,
Did this engine come with a steel crank from factory?
thanks

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No , if it still has it's original crank it has a FORGED STEEL crank and not a CAST steel crank.

Steel crank , your corvetteness is showing ...

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that's a 350HP motor , the 02502 doesn't look like a factory stamping , probably a number added by shop that rebuilt it .

How do you know it has a forged crank ?

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The thickness of the balancer?
If it is HP why no HP stamp?

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Ok you are ASSUMING it has a forged crank. I'm pretty sure there is a thread here somewhere where a member bought a 69 440 that was done by a mass rebuilder of sorts ... it has a CAST CRANK .

HP means HORSE POWER , that is NOT a 440 375 Horsepower engine block , what it is NOW is anyones guess. I assume you bought it as it sits ????

Why isn't there 5 replies with a picture of a car that has nothing to do with your question


It was a high performance motor when produced or it was not or you cannot tell from the stampings? That was my compound question. Oh ok -- it is 350 horse power engine... dah
Can you tell if it is a steel crank by the balancer?

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You obviously have a VERY LIMITED Mopar background ?

The 1968 440 came in 2 flavors , the LOW PERFORMANCE 350HP version , which that engine started life as and why it does NOT have the HP stamp on the pad and the HIGH PERFORMANCE 375HP version , which that is NOT .

Can you tell what crank it has by looking at the balancer ? Technically NO , unless one were superman and had X-Ray vision. You will have to pull the pan to be sure , BUT if that was in one of your cars and ran ok with no funny cyclic vibrations then it would be safe to ASSuME that it has a forged crank .

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Sorry class is over , homework for Mr. Condesending is to figure how the tech archive and search function work...

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Sorry class is over , homework for Mr. Condesending is to figure how the tech archive and search function work...

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Isnt it safe to say that a C 440 will have a forged steel crank "unless" it has otherwise been switched out for a cast crank? I dont claim to be a genius, just asking.

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68 440 forged crank. 440's did'nt start coming out with cast cranks till mid year 73.

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68 440 forged crank. 440's didn't start coming out with cast cranks till mid year 73.

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68 440 forged crank. 440's did'nt start coming out with cast cranks till mid year 73.

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all 440s 1966-1973 had forged cranks in all motors ,only low performance 383s had cast cranks.

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68 440 forged crank. 440's did'nt start coming out with cast cranks till mid year 73.

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all 440s 1966-1973 had forged cranks in all motors ,only low performance 383s had cast cranks.

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68 440 forged crank. 440's did'nt start coming out with cast cranks till mid year 73.

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all 440s 1966-1973 had forged cranks in all motors ,only low performance 383s had cast cranks.

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you are forgetting 400's ...

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whats the clowned up 440 in his 1969 r/t on ebay? T stamp for tested?

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68 440 forged crank. 440's did'nt start coming out with cast cranks till mid year 73.

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all 440s 1966-1973 had forged cranks in all motors ,only low performance 383s had cast cranks.

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you are forgetting 400's ...

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no just refused they existed, whats the clowned up 440 in his 1969 r/t on ebay? T stamp for tested?

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T = True the real deal. looks like i'll make
8k soon. Not bad for a limited MOPAR experienced novice. Whats in your wallet?

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Wonder what else is lacking in his "resto" work?

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I am sure with your unlimited MOPAR experience
you could conjure up something. Like nice job "not" or not a survivor or that valve cover is not the right year. Or your "wonderment" is genuine as in really stumped, perplexed or just plain blind.

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This is great, he doesn't know beans about Mopars and you can get him riled with almost nothing.

How do you have any clue what the cars are, what they are worth, etc, if you are asking stuff high school kids do starting out in the hobby or guys that are just getting back in ask?

You come in here with this high and mighty crap, "look at me, I'm Bill B. Badd" and more, yet have not even basic knowledge of the hobby. Throw in lectures about how we don't know what a survivor is and it is quite a circus sideshow. Free entertainment, thanks!

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Riled you say... - No offense Billy Bob but "You must be a redneck". I ask easy questions and get answers from other normal members.

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68 440 forged crank. 440's didn't start coming out with cast cranks till mid year 73.

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I think point being made is, based on the 02502 stamped on the id pad, the engine has been rebuilt at some point in its life and there is no guarantee the original forged crank was put back in. Pulling the pan and putting an eyeball on the crank is the only sure way to know what you have.

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You guys need to be a little more gentle,Christmas is coming.

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68 440 forged crank. 440's did'nt start coming out with cast cranks till mid year 73.

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all 440s 1966-1973 had forged cranks in all motors ,only low performance 383s had cast cranks.

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you are forgetting 400's ...

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no just refused they existed, whats the clowned up 440 in his 1969 r/t on ebay? T stamp for tested?

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T = True the real deal. looks like i'll make
8k soon. Not bad for a limited MOPAR experienced novice. Whats in your wallet?

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68 440 forged crank. 440's did'nt start coming out with cast cranks till mid year 73.

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all 440s 1966-1973 had forged cranks in all motors ,only low performance 383s had cast cranks.

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you are forgetting 400's ...

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no just refused they existed, whats the clowned up 440 in his 1969 r/t on ebay? T stamp for tested?

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T = True the real deal. looks like i'll make
8k soon. Not bad for a limited MOPAR experienced novice. Whats in your wallet?

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its not the real deal motor for car, keep flipping if you can

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Usually takes a few 7 day iterations on EBAY... Looks like this R/T is Germany bound. US
buyers are scarce. There is an "ass for every seat".

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Is that 8k profit gained by using a shill ?

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My auction is a Fixed price format. BUY IT NOW price or Make Offer. Works for me. I like to think we add value. No deceit just strait american capitalism.

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No deceit ?? , I read the auction , ok , no deceit , but you lack basic mopar knowledge, typical of the used car salesperson.

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Is that 8k profit gained by using a shill ?

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My auction is a Fixed price format. BUY IT NOW price or Make Offer. Works for me. I like to think we add value. No deceit just strait american capitalism.

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You must be from the "I am not a crook" car salesman business school.

Maybe tomorrow you can graduate from Mopar 101 and move on to the 102 class. There you can learn which side the LH thread lugs go on.

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its not the real deal motor for car, keep flipping if you can

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Usually takes a few 7 day iterations on EBAY... Looks like this R/T is Germany bound. US
buyers are scarce. There is an "ass for every seat".

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US buyers aren't scarce, they are smart. They can see the corners that were cut and can only imagine what's hiding under that shiney paint job , that car screams perfumed pig with items on the firewall that are painted body color that should not be and the GM underbody Black paint job.

Ebay is the perfect place for a car of that caliber , it gets shipped and the buyer doesn't see it till months after you get the money and is thousands of miles away and an extra thousand plus in shipping charges he will never recoup.

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Oink Oink - ya next time I'll buy sheet metal, clean up the firewall and underbody. And bury myself with expenses so that I will be upside down when i bring to market. Or maybe just let the car rot in a field somewhere.
Cause everyone wants 100 point mega buck car.

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Is that 8k profit gained by using a shill ?

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My auction is a Fixed price format. BUY IT NOW price or Make Offer. Works for me. I like to think we add value. No deceit just strait american capitalism.

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You must be from the "I am not a crook" car salesman business school.

Maybe tomorrow you can graduate from Mopar 101 and move on to the 102 class. There you can learn which side the LH thread lugs go on.

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I'll leave that shop tech stuff "right hand left hand" to you MOPAR experts.

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Is that 8k profit gained by using a shill ?

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My auction is a Fixed price format. BUY IT NOW price or Make Offer. Works for me. I like to think we add value. No deceit just strait american capitalism.

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No deceit ?? , I read the auction , ok , no deceit , but you lack basic mopar knowledge, typical of the used car salesperson.

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Really - common sense and business savvy and knowing what most of the buyer want and can afford in a muscle car is infinitely more important. In my chest pounding opinion.

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Whats in your wallet?

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Whats in your wallet?

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Enough money for a correct breather cap. (Call Tony. Easy, cheap and correct)

The phone numbers to friends that can help me with correct detail info for a 69 Coronet R/T. I'd be happy to share them if you'd like.

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Is the breather below wrong also? My buyer didn't mind. must be very subtle difference
Thanks

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Define 'subtle' ?
Permormance models received a chrome breather
But, the breather is the least of the worries in the picture, it just happen to be the most obvious.

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Is the breather below wrong also? My buyer didn't mind. must be very subtle difference
Thanks

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Define 'subtle' ?
Permormance models received a chrome breather
But, the breather is the least of the worries in the picture, it just happen to be the most obvious.

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another view

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Geez, this is another one of those rough threads! Well, I'm far from a purist but the easy to see & fix ones the VR, wiper motor, radiator cap, m/c cover & probably m/c, too and my 6bbl car came with black plug wires & tan cap. Looks like a neat car.

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another view

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Geez, this is another one of those rough threads! Well, I'm far from a purist but the easy to see & fix ones the VR, wiper motor, radiator cap, m/c cover & probably m/c, too and my 6bbl car came with black plug wires & tan cap. Looks like a neat car.

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You must be from the "I am not a crook" car salesman business school.

OJT...an essential element of the hobby
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-SK1-iILlY&feature=related

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You must be from the "I am not a crook" car salesman business school.

OJT...an essential element of the hobby
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-SK1-iILlY&feature=related

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That is some funny stuff, but I think you would be more of a dolphin, with the flipping and all.

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And don't tell me that you wouldn't "flip" somethimg to make a buck if you had a chance.Other options,sell for what you paid,sell it for less or give it away.You're choice.Of course with this generations mentality,who knows!

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Is the breather below wrong also? My buyer didn't mind. must be very subtle difference
Thanks

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Define 'subtle' ?
Permormance models received a chrome breather
But, the breather is the least of the worries in the picture, it just happen to be the most obvious.

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Oh... Thank you,
I am currently perfuming a 70 383 superbee pig.
I think it is mostly stock, almost a survivor,
saying that in here is like saying my girl is a little pregnant. Any tips on this one?

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Whoops, didn't see this first pic. Your hose clamps (cheap) and I'm not too sure about that horn. I would think it should have the standard looking horn set but I could be wrong. The blackout I see on the rad. support looks like mine did/does, though.
Once again, I'm far-far from Mr. resto guy, I just happened to have owned one 'b' body (among hundreds of all make/models) for a long-long time. There are ton's of people on here with far more expertise than me. just trying to help.

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Anybody not here to help should leave. When you show up and talk down to people that are here to help, you should expect to catch flak from the regulars that have been here to help for a long time.

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Anybody not here to help should leave. When you show up and talk down to people that are here to help, you should expect to catch flak from the regulars that have been here to help for a long time.

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Is this directed at me?

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Anybody not here to help should leave. When you show up and talk down to people that are here to help, you should expect to catch flak from the regulars that have been here to help for a long time.

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Is this directed at me?

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Anybody not here to help should leave. When you show up and talk down to people that are here to help, you should expect to catch flak from the regulars that have been here to help for a long time.

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Is this directed at me?

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Anybody not here to help should leave. When you show up and talk down to people that are here to help, you should expect to catch flak from the regulars that have been here to help for a long time.

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Is this directed at me?

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It is directed at every person on this board. Especially those that bristle with anger when they are called out about their absurd claims, like rusty, tired 69 Chargers being survivors. There is no reason to insult our intelligence here on the board with that nonsense and zero reason to get upset when corrected. Further, when a person who gets a ball like that rolling later posts something proving that he himself has not even basic knowledge about the entire subject at hand, that person shouldn't get bent out of shape when others question why he feels that he should be condescending towards them about the hobby that they know far more about than he does.

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You must be on the verge of exploding all the time if you took that in that way. If I direct something at you specifically, you will know.

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But, will I care? Chill, key board commando!

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Or maybe just let the car rot in a field somewhere. Cause everyone wants 100 point mega buck car.

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No..I'd love to have a nicely done driver quality four speed R/T. It's just that the little things do make a difference and when you look at what could have been done very easily with little time or effort, and wasn't done, it makes you wonder about the quality of work on other things. For example, a chrome breather cap is a distinctive detail, easy to get and doesn't cost that much. Since it wasn't swapped, it's a glaring detail that sticks out. Luckily, this is an easy thing for the new owner to fix.

Painting the bezels around the stripe wouldn't have taken that much more time or effort to do right the first time. Since they weren't painted, it's a glaring detail that sticks out. This could be fixed by the buyer but why should they have to?

Emblems and a stripe? The body color through the stripe is a detail I love about the 69 R/T. the emblem on a stripe delete car is not centered above the bezel.

The same is true for the black out behind the grille. It wouldn't have taken that long to shoot the support black. Again, this could be done by the new owner but why should they have to go back in and do it? It would have been so much easier to do when you had things apart.

There are some other small things that could have been done differently and no one item is a deal breaker for a nice driver but things like this do add up to a guy like me. It makes me go...hmmmm....if they didn't take the time to do the little stuff, did they really take the time to do the big more expensive things like the engine, tranny, rear, body work, etc, correctly? Getting some of the details right, and they do not have to be to 100 point specs for a car like this, do pique interest and add value to a sale.



And, yes, you should save every 69 Coronet R/T you find rotting in a field.

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Obviously you care when it isn't directed at you. I can't imagine how bad you would come unglued if something were to be said to you, Mr. Knee Jerk Reaction.

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Once again, if I cared...... and again Chill car guru!

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Careful there RT, some of these guys have fragile egos. That might leave a bruise. Even on somebody that shouldn't care.

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I know jack about egos. I do know about 69 Coronet R/Ts.

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Obviously you care when it isn't directed at you. I can't imagine how bad you would come unglued if something were to be said to you, Mr. Knee Jerk Reaction.

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Once again, if I cared...... and again Chill car guru!

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I thought you didn't care? Multiple personality much?

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Careful there RT, some of these guys have fragile egos. That might leave a bruise. Even on somebody that shouldn't care.

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Are you kidding? This is fun & funny.

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Careful there RT, some of these guys have fragile egos. That might leave a bruise. Even on somebody that shouldn't care.

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I know jack about egos. I do know about 69 Coronet R/Ts.

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...and knowing is half the battle!!!

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Careful there RT, some of these guys have fragile egos. That might leave a bruise. Even on somebody that shouldn't care.

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Are you kidding? This is fun & funny.

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Only if you are detached enough not to care.

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Obviously you care when it isn't directed at you. I can't imagine how bad you would come unglued if something were to be said to you, Mr. Knee Jerk Reaction.

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Once again, if I cared...... and again Chill car guru!

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I thought you didn't care? Multiple personality much?

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Always get a kick out of key board commandos so I appreciate you keeping me chuckling with your amazing car knowledge.

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Careful there RT, some of these guys have fragile egos. That might leave a bruise. Even on somebody that shouldn't care.

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Are you kidding? This is fun & funny.

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Only if you are detached enough not to care.

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Exactly

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You must be in training for message board mercenary warfare then. What is the going rate for "involvement" in a conflict these days?

I do know how to spot a forged crank after staying at Holiday Inn Express.

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No, bored till my flight leaves in a few weeks for the Marshalls.

It's quite easy to do in an assembled engine removing the damper, with a tuning fork. If your old enough.

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Or maybe just let the car rot in a field somewhere. Cause everyone wants 100 point mega buck car.

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No..I'd love to have a nicely done driver quality four speed R/T. It's just that the little things do make a difference and when you look at what could have been done very easily with little time or effort, and wasn't done, it makes you wonder about the quality of work on other things. For example, a chrome breather cap is a distinctive detail, easy to get and doesn't cost that much. Since it wasn't swapped, it's a glaring detail that sticks out. Luckily, this is an easy thing for the new owner to fix.

Painting the bezels around the stripe wouldn't have taken that much more time or effort to do right the first time. Since they weren't painted, it's a glaring detail that sticks out. This could be fixed by the buyer but why should they have to?

Emblems and a stripe? The body color through the stripe is a detail I love about the 69 R/T. the emblem on a stripe delete car is not centered above the bezel.

The same is true for the black out behind the grille. It wouldn't have taken that long to shoot the support black. Again, this could be done by the new owner but why should they have to go back in and do it? It would have been so much easier to do when you had things apart.

There are some other small things that could have been done differently and no one item is a deal breaker for a nice driver but things like this do add up to a guy like me. It makes me go...hmmmm....if they didn't take the time to do the little stuff, did they really take the time to do the big more expensive things like the engine, tranny, rear, body work, etc, correctly? Getting some of the details right, and they do not have to be to 100 point specs for a car like this, do pique interest and add value to a sale.



And, yes, you should save every 69 Coronet R/T you find rotting in a field.

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BTW are you saying the bezels should not be painted?

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Saving grace - 9 propective buyers out of 10 would not know about chrome breather, black out, bezel paint, R/T emblem alignment etc. etc etc.

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Very true. But what will the opinion of the buyer be toward YOU and your work when the new owner takes this car to their first cruise in or car show and run into that 1 out of 10 person that points out these things? Will they think highly of you and the 'restored' car they purchased? Doing the small things correctly when it is time and cost efficent to do them go a long way.

RE detail pictures. This car was intended to be a driver so I understand compromises were made. Certain details may have been intentionally omitted or added after the pictures were taken. (for example various stickers) There were variations between plants on certain things that may or may not appear on this specific car. If you don't know those variations going in or they are not apparent on the car, researching the details takes time and money and add little overall value. Certain details do become cost prohibitive if you are trying to make a profit and don't make sense on a driver.

Things like the shifter handle are a personal choice and the "T" handle is very period correct and a common personalization made by owners. This is no big deal to me because it's easily changed if the owner wants to.

I can't tell for sure but it looks like you did not install a fuel vapor separator and I presume the return line. Again, small details that add to the restoration cost and detract from the profit but this is 'one of those things' specific to this model that add up after a while. Would it matter to most people this is missing? Probably not but it would to some.

It appears to be a nice car from the pictures. It's certainly a desireable car but I'd be that 1 in 10 guy that would be willing to pay a little more for more items that were 'correct'. It shows me the shop took their time to do it as right as possible given the parameters they had to work with.

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Hi massmopar -
do you bite?

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Saving grace - 9 propective buyers out of 10 would not know about chrome breather, black out, bezel paint, R/T emblem alignment etc. etc etc.

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Very true. But what will the opinion of the buyer be toward YOU and your work when the new owner takes this car to their first cruise in or car show and run into that 1 out of 10 person that points out these things? Will they think highly of you and the 'restored' car they purchased? Doing the small things correctly when it is time and cost efficent to do them go a long way.

RE detail pictures. This car was intended to be a driver so I understand compromises were made. Certain details may have been intentionally omitted or added after the pictures were taken. (for example various stickers) There were variations between plants on certain things that may or may not appear on this specific car. If you don't know those variations going in or they are not apparent on the car, researching the details takes time and money and add little overall value. Certain details do become cost prohibitive if you are trying to make a profit and don't make sense on a driver.

Things like the shifter handle are a personal choice and the "T" handle is very period correct and a common personalization made by owners. This is no big deal to me because it's easily changed if the owner wants to.

I can't tell for sure but it looks like you did not install a fuel vapor separator and I presume the return line. Again, small details that add to the restoration cost and detract from the profit but this is 'one of those things' specific to this model that add up after a while. Would it matter to most people this is missing? Probably not but it would to some.

It appears to be a nice car from the pictures. It's certainly a desireable car but I'd be that 1 in 10 guy that would be willing to pay a little more for more items that were 'correct'. It shows me the shop took their time to do it as right as possible given the parameters they had to work with.

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Finally a response from someone that can give information/opinions without the derogatory remarks,criricism and name calling.

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Saving grace - 9 propective buyers out of 10 would not know about chrome breather, black out, bezel paint, R/T emblem alignment etc. etc etc.

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Very true. But what will the opinion of the buyer be toward YOU and your work when the new owner takes this car to their first cruise in or car show and run into that 1 out of 10 person that points out these things? Will they think highly of you and the 'restored' car they purchased? Doing the small things correctly when it is time and cost efficent to do them go a long way.

RE detail pictures. This car was intended to be a driver so I understand compromises were made. Certain details may have been intentionally omitted or added after the pictures were taken. (for example various stickers) There were variations between plants on certain things that may or may not appear on this specific car. If you don't know those variations going in or they are not apparent on the car, researching the details takes time and money and add little overall value. Certain details do become cost prohibitive if you are trying to make a profit and don't make sense on a driver.

Things like the shifter handle are a personal choice and the "T" handle is very period correct and a common personalization made by owners. This is no big deal to me because it's easily changed if the owner wants to.

I can't tell for sure but it looks like you did not install a fuel vapor separator and I presume the return line. Again, small details that add to the restoration cost and detract from the profit but this is 'one of those things' specific to this model that add up after a while. Would it matter to most people this is missing? Probably not but it would to some.

It appears to be a nice car from the pictures. It's certainly a desireable car but I'd be that 1 in 10 guy that would be willing to pay a little more for more items that were 'correct'. It shows me the shop took their time to do it as right as possible given the parameters they had to work with.

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Finally a response from someone that can give information/opinions without the derogatory remarks,criricism and name calling.

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Refreshing, clear and thoughtful comments. Changed my mind on few things.

Quote:

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I'm tackling this rusty 69 charger project #'s 383 H code 4 speed console T7 ext. T5 int. 2 buildsheets fender tag, 1 owner car.
My intention is to restore to driver quality.
I was thinking of making it an R/T clone.
Now after all, I'm going to follow the buildsheet and resist my personal preferences.

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Good call. A nicely done (not perfect, not a mega buck 100 point car but done well) original 383 - 4 speed Charger would be much more marketable than another R/T clone.

BTW if the Charger was built at the St. Louis plant ( G plant ) I'd be interested in knowing more about it as I track cars built at that plant. If you don't already know him, I'd encourage you to contact Chris at the 69 Charger registry if you need a good resource.

69 Charger Registry

Quote:

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Quote:

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I'm tackling this rusty 69 charger project #'s 383 H code 4 speed console T7 ext. T5 int. 2 buildsheets fender tag, 1 owner car.
My intention is to restore to driver quality.
I was thinking of making it an R/T clone.
Now after all, I'm going to follow the buildsheet and resist my personal preferences.

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Good call. A nicely done (not perfect, not a mega buck 100 point car but done well) original 383 - 4 speed Charger would be much more marketable than another R/T clone.

BTW if the Charger was built at the St. Louis plant ( G plant ) I'd be interested in knowing more about it as I track cars built at that plant. If you don't already know him, I'd encourage you to contact Chris at the 69 Charger registry if you need a good resource.

69 Charger Registry

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