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...for me, I like the extra "braking horsepower" that 4 wheel discs offer. THAT, plus they look nice through the spokes of the 18 inch rims!

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Wilwood's largest 6 piston SUV caliper & 14.5" discs:

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...for me, I like the extra "braking horsepower" that 4 wheel discs offer. THAT, plus they look nice through the spokes of the 18 inch rims!

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Wilwood's largest 6 piston SUV caliper & 14.5" discs:

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If you had a small car like a Torana, only 14.17" rotors like mine would do..

(They are 1.41" thick too )

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I can't recall having any difficulty bringing my 69 340 Dart (manual drum brakes)

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braking is typically limited by tire grip and thermal dissipation. 3 cars with identical weight, weight distribution, and tires, one with 10.87" discs, one with 11" drums, the other with 13" discs will probably stop in the same distance from say, 60 mph. but do multiple hard stops from speed, you'll get brake fade quickly with the small disc and the drum car....

my duster stops very good with 10" drums all the way around....from say, 50mph. once on the freeway, I had to make a hard stop from 75mph when an accident happened a few cars ahead of me....by 25MPH my brakes were gone from heat soak....had to swerve and go in the grass to avoid the car in front of me....

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There are a lot more factors but I'm not going into it. I'm used to stopping from well above 120mph and the factory drum brakes in great shape with the proper shoes(not replacement crap) are capable,but fade will become a problem on repeated stops. With the factory tires and such I wouldn't worry so much about real braking.

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...drum/drum setup, the quickest and easiest bang for the buck is to upgrade to the widest tires that will fit your rims and wheel openings.

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...
If you had a small car like a Torana, only 14.17" rotors like mine would do..

(They are 1.41" thick too )

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heheh.. far too many of those little cars around here as it is

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Front disc brakes are a godsend as far as braking goes. Mopar disc brakes are are pretty dang good especially with a proportioning valve in the rear brake line, it helps to balance front to rear braking.

Last summer I drove my 74 340 challenger to the top of Pikes Peak, which meant I had to drive back down that huge mountain.

I not so sure drum brakes wouldn't over heat coming down that thing.

Halfway down, they stop you and shoot your brakes with a heat gun. I thought I was hardly even using the brakes running in low gear and second but the guy said they were hot and I should let em cool.

Sign say "hot brakes fail" This is at the top, on the way down 

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Pikes peak is really tough on brakes, expecially with a auto trans or where you can not use engine braking. usually having to be on the brakes because of slower traffic in front of you, and moving too slow for force air through the rotors for the brakes too cool. That said, I'm still running the stock 11" manual drums on the Coronet, but it is a manual trans with 4.10:1 gears

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... I've never even ridden in a mopar that can handle as well as my wife's 90 Camry, or even our Suburban with my wife, kids and the dog in it.

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So I assume nobody's driving LeMans or Nurburgring. Where the heck are you guys driving that you need so much braking? Down a mineshaft?

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You hammerdown this straight then slow down and pucker up for this tight left hander.



Rear end is raised up slighly under hard braking.



Into corner



In corner

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It just seems to put discs the size of basketball hoops on a platform like a B or E body is kind of like turbocharging an ice cream truck.

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hmmm...

I put turbochargers on my Belvedere as well as 14" brakes. I use it to go get ice cream. Does that count?

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...
If you had a small car like a Torana, only 14.17" rotors like mine would do..

(They are 1.41" thick too )

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heheh.. far too many of those little cars around here as it is

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Darren, Oz, when will you two grow up? After all, you both know that mine's better.

Ya see, Oz STOLE the brake rotor thing from me. It seems that I had to do everything except bolt 'em to the car for him. I had been threatened with vile and vulgar things involving zombie penguins or something like that.

This is the 8 piston caliper that belongs on Oz's rotors.



He was too lame to install the matching rear rotors:



I'll be moving them over to the Imperial. When that's done, I might make a stop in the LA area to see if those cutesy little Aussie cars make good speed bumps for real American iron.

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...
autoxcuda, I know you have really got your cuda dialed in as I have read some of your other posts, and would like to connect with you at Woodley. I have a 68 fastback (although its a big block)and would like to get your advice on suspension, etc.

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My whole point in the post was not to defend factory brakes. It just seems to put discs the size of basketball hoops on a platform like a B or E body is kind of like turbocharging an ice cream truck.

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So what's the deal with the massive disk brake setups so popular today? Ten inch, 12", 14" rotors, 4 pad, 6 pad, what, 12 pad?

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I've never even ridden in a mopar that can handle as well as my wife's 90 Camry, or even our Suburban with my wife, kids and the dog in it. Where the heck are you guys driving that you need so much braking?

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I drive in Dallas, TX. We used to have nice people here then everyone in the world thought it'd be a good place to visit and they never went home! Now, there are no rules on the road. I've had a couple close calls that would have resulted in a collision had the old drums been on the car.

My car isn't a G-machine or whatever you want to call it. I do have good brakes, plenty of power (twin turbo 440), and front/rear sway bars. The big brakes and sticky 245/45-18 and 295/45-18 tires help me put a little fun in driving. Even without chassis upgrades the difference is astounding.

I didn't do a "bandwagon" or "keeping up with everybody else" thing. I had the 11/75" front discs and TSM 11" rears. The car was still able to heat up the brakes when I was misbehaving behind the wheel. In fact, I could push through the brakes with the throttle. My own little "unintended acceleration" issue would result in a car that would not stop by brakes alone.
I wanted more brake power to go with my horsepower. When shopping for a brake kit 5 years ago I came up with VERY expensive packages. Working at a Mercedes store opened up the possibilities for good stuff at an employee discount.
I picked up all four corners of the AMG brakes for less than an aftermarket 13" front brake kit cost at the time. It was also more "me" than buying a kit. I have a tendency to find random things that work nicely on my car but were never intended to be there. Why give someone else the money when I can make my own?

Enough babbling. I found 'em cheap (relatively speaking) and made it work. That's what I do.

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Not many people were installing NASCAR drum brakes, but were installing HP engines.

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Wow, the overseas crowd is being a bit rough on this old guy!

I do drive slower than the surrounding traffic, about 3-5 mph. There are enough weavers, idiots,and jerks here in Southern Ca. I despise that kind of disrespectful driving.

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If what you got works, just maintain it, and smile at the newest/greatest/biggest crowd.

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I can't recall having any difficulty bringing my 69 340 Dart (manual drum brakes) down from 110+mph, many times. So what's the deal with the massive disk brake setups so popular today? Ten inch, 12", 14" rotors, 4 pad, 6 pad, what, 12 pad? I've never even ridden in a mopar that can handle as well as my wife's 90 Camry, or even our Suburban with my wife, kids and the dog in it. So I assume nobody's driving LeMans or Nurburgring. Where the heck are you guys driving that you need so much braking? Down a mineshaft?

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I've never even ridden in a mopar that can handle as well as my wife's 90 Camry, or even our Suburban with my wife, kids and the dog in it.

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Mike,

While I don't usually go for the uber large custom braking systems either due to the cost, I do take a bit of offense to your statement made above. It shows a lot of hyperbole at best, and a definite lack of knowledge and experience at worst.

I have driven a lot of old Mopars in my time, and several of them are far above the handling capabilites of a Suburban or a Camry . The torsion bar front suspension was hailed as the basis of some of the best handling American cars of their day, a fact which is still repeated by people who are surprised when they drive a properly aligned and cared for old Mopar with modern rubber on the ground.

I personally have driven such cars at triple digit speeds in emergency situations, and a '78 Monaco A38 or an AHB Fury will handle just as well as a 9C1 Caprice or the newest Crown Vic P71 with comparable rims and tires. I have also crawled into several civilian B, C, E and other size bodies which would surprise you, and if they had the heavy duty suspension option or a trailering package can be a joy to drive in a set of high speed curves. If you would care to do some research and reading on this subject, you will find many others who will tell you the same thing.

Finally, once you put some thought into setting up an old Mopar suspension correctly with just some simple modifications, you can amaze other people in just how flat one of them can corner and run through an evasive lane change scenario. As one person put it, "you have taken a two ton big block Dodge and taught it how to dance."

Suburbans and Camrys? Please.

May God bless America,

Paladin

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I've never even ridden in a mopar that can handle as well as my wife's 90 Camry, or even our Suburban with my wife, kids and the dog in it.

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Mike,

While I don't usually go for the uber large custom braking systems either due to the cost, I do take a bit of offense to your statement made above. It shows a lot of hyperbole at best, and a definite lack of knowledge and experience at worst.

I have driven a lot of old Mopars in my time, and several of them are far above the handling capabilites of a Suburban or a Camry . The torsion bar front suspension was hailed as the basis of some of the best handling American cars of their day, a fact which is still repeated by people who are surprised when they drive a properly aligned and cared for old Mopar with modern rubber on the ground.

I personally have driven such cars at triple digit speeds in emergency situations, and a '78 Monaco A38 or an AHB Fury will handle just as well as a 9C1 Caprice or the newest Crown Vic P71 with comparable rims and tires. I have also crawled into several civilian B, C, E and other size bodies which would surprise you, and if they had the heavy duty suspension option or a trailering package can be a joy to drive in a set of high speed curves. If you would care to do some research and reading on this subject, you will find many others who will tell you the same thing.

Finally, once you put some thought into setting up an old Mopar suspension correctly with just some simple modifications, you can amaze other people in just how flat one of them can corner and run through an evasive lane change scenario. As one person put it, "you have taken a two ton big block Dodge and taught it how to dance."

Suburbans and Camrys? Please.

May God bless America,

Paladin

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With the battery in the trunk and now aluiminum heads my old E body don't do to bad in the twistes now a days.

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Second thought, a little off subject, is if torsion bars were such a great thing, why don't cars today use them? Or do they?

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Second thought, a little off subject, is if torsion bars were such a great thing, why don't cars today use them? Or do they?

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My 98 chevy pickup uses them.

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It seems like the best way to improve an old cars braking, even with stock drums, would be to install some kind of ABS system. But I have never heard of anyone doing that. Is it too expensive/complicated to design/install?

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I did it to a Camaro, but it was the really long way around to get ABS and traction control in an old car

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2682662/1969-chevrolet-camaro

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Second thought, a little off subject, is if torsion bars were such a great thing, why don't cars today use them? Or do they?

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It seems like the best way to improve an old cars braking, even with stock drums, would be to install some kind of ABS system. But I have never heard of anyone doing that. Is it too expensive/complicated to design/install?

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ABS does not actually improve the available braking capability.

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it seemed like one second i was doing 110, and the next second i was doing 60. no dive, no swerve, no sway, it just felt like instantaneous deceleration! i gained a whole new respect for brakes after that.

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ABS does not actually improve the available braking capability.

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No but it does prevent you from locking the tires, and in theory locked tires on pavement slow down less rapidly than when ABS keeps the tires at their point of maximum traction.

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Well the comment made was "the best way to improve an old cars braking"....and ABS does not improve braking.
If you're saying that braking with non-locked wheels is better than locked wheels, then yes of course it is, I doubt anyone is arguing that. But it doesn't take ABS to avoid locked wheels - proper set up and threshold braking.

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ABS makes stopping faster in panic situations for people who haven't practiced panic braking and keeping the brakes right at that threshold. Every winter on an empty stretch of slick road I'll practice how fast I can punch the brakes and stay on the edge of locking them up.

The current set up on my truck ('72 W200, discs all the way around), I can't lock up the fronts. But that may be more due to the 32s and dry pavement This spring I'll get a pressure gauge and do some more testing.

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ABS makes stopping faster in panic situations for people who haven't practiced panic braking and keeping the brakes right at that threshold.

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I think that very important point is worth repeating, and to state the obvious is ABS "cycles" brakes between near lockup and release, and that actually increases stopping distance over the experienced driver as you mentioned.

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ABS makes stopping faster in panic situations for people who haven't practiced panic braking and keeping the brakes right at that threshold.

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I think that very important point is worth repeating, and to state the obvious is ABS "cycles" brakes between near lockup and release, and that actually increases stopping distance over the experienced driver as you mentioned.

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ABS makes stopping faster in panic situations for people who haven't practiced panic braking and keeping the brakes right at that threshold.

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I think that very important point is worth repeating, and to state the obvious is ABS "cycles" brakes between near lockup and release, and that actually increases stopping distance over the experienced driver as you mentioned.

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Here's a video of the SLR's carbon ceramic brakes glowing after a single stop from 120 mph.

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That is pretty cool looking.

I need to make up some duct work for mine actually...the front spoiler I have already has the opening for the brake cooling ducts (the touring/road race cars used them) Just need to run some hose from there to some sort of mount behind the rotor.

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Locking the tires is rarely desired. Most of the time it'll lead to VERY long stopping distances. Those are closely followed by insurance claims, personal injury attorneys, and a couple months of waiting for your car to get out of the body shop.

When I see the guy in the 4 wheel disc equipped Ram with the 12,000 lb camper jack knife in the middle of the road and dump the rig on it's side, I want to know that my 4 wheel disc brakes will stop me before I slam into the roof of his overturned truck and squash him like a grape.

No, I don't need 14 inch rotors on the front of my 65 Belvedere. However, it is the best performing brake package I've had on the car AND it was the most affordable at the time. There is a noticeable difference between these and the standard old Mopar disc brakes. These are MUCH nicer, even in daily use.

Let's not bring up the 4 wheel drums and single pot master cylinder this car left the factory with. They were horrible.

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Don't worry Feet's; firstly, I'm not going to be jacknifed in the middle of the road, and secondly, your little car isn't going to squash me like a grape!

for the record, I have nothing against you building your car as you like with 16" brakes if that's what you choose. The point I'm making is that you don't need that to be safe driving amongst traffic.

Dave

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Um- I'm thinking it would have been great to have 4 wheel disks in the Barracuda. Since when is having more stopping power a bad thing?

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Exactly.. Everyone thinks more power is better, why not the biggest possible brakes...

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Well the comment made was "the best way to improve an old cars braking"....and ABS does not improve braking.
If you're saying that braking with non-locked wheels is better than locked wheels, then yes of course it is, I doubt anyone is arguing that. But it doesn't take ABS to avoid locked wheels - proper set up and threshold braking.

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ABS makes stopping faster in panic situations for people who haven't practiced panic braking and keeping the brakes right at that threshold. Every winter on an empty stretch of slick road I'll practice how fast I can punch the brakes and stay on the edge of locking them up.

The current set up on my truck ('72 W200, discs all the way around), I can't lock up the fronts. But that may be more due to the 32s and dry pavement This spring I'll get a pressure gauge and do some more testing.

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I don't doubt that you guys can stop your vehicles better than an average dummy in your vehicle standing on the pedal with the wheels locked.

The question is - can you stop your vehicle faster than it could if it had ABS? I've not met a human being yet that could modulate braking individually to 4 wheels with one brake pedal. Although I've not met everybody yet.

Overall, I'm always amazed at the $$ some guys will spend on their car but refuse to at least upgrade to OEM discs.

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Well the comment made was "the best way to improve an old cars braking"....and ABS does not improve braking.
If you're saying that braking with non-locked wheels is better than locked wheels, then yes of course it is, I doubt anyone is arguing that. But it doesn't take ABS to avoid locked wheels - proper set up and threshold braking.

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ABS makes stopping faster in panic situations for people who haven't practiced panic braking and keeping the brakes right at that threshold. Every winter on an empty stretch of slick road I'll practice how fast I can punch the brakes and stay on the edge of locking them up.

The current set up on my truck ('72 W200, discs all the way around), I can't lock up the fronts. But that may be more due to the 32s and dry pavement This spring I'll get a pressure gauge and do some more testing.

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I don't doubt that you guys can stop your vehicles better than an average dummy in your vehicle standing on the pedal with the wheels locked.

The question is - can you stop your vehicle faster than it could if it had ABS? I've not met a human being yet that could modulate braking individually to 4 wheels with one brake pedal. Although I've not met everybody yet.

Overall, I'm always amazed at the $$ some guys will spend on their car but refuse to at least upgrade to OEM discs.

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I'd venture to say it would be unusual in the extreme for four wheels to lock at the same time - i.e. ABS will not usually need to modulate 4 brakes at the same time. If it does, the driver probably buried the pedal in a limited traction situation (e.g. ice) and maybe shouldn't be out in those conditions!
Don't get me wrong, I'm not against ABS per se, but the suggestion was made that ABS would improve braking, which is not the case. Is it useful in some circumstances - yes. Would I pay a lot of money to retrofit it to my car, no way, I could achieve much more worthwhile improvements (braking or elsewhere) for the $$. Plus I don't generally take out my classic Mopar when it is sheet ice everywhere (actually I don't take it out at all while it is still in bits ).

Under normal conditions with a well set up system - yeah I'd take on an ABS system and not expect to lose out.

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Here's a video of the SLR's carbon ceramic brakes glowing after a single stop from 120 mph.

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That is pretty cool looking.

I need to make up some duct work for mine actually...the front spoiler I have already has the opening for the brake cooling ducts (the touring/road race cars used them) Just need to run some hose from there to some sort of mount behind the rotor.

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that's amazing... so that little Holden can actually get those big brakes moving..?
cool!
you could duct-tape some cardboard flaps to the wheels may generate a breeze to cool them too.

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Don't worry Feet's; firstly, I'm not going to be jacknifed in the middle of the road, and secondly, your little car isn't going to squash me like a grape!

for the record, I have nothing against you building your car as you like with 16" brakes if that's what you choose. The point I'm making is that you don't need that to be safe driving amongst traffic.

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4 wheel drums on my Charger. Thats what is staying on it. Been to the track more times than I can count, and street driven almost every day. Never had a problem. To me, it stops well

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4 wheel drums on my Charger. Thats what is staying on it. Been to the track more times than I can count, and street driven almost every day. Never had a problem. To me, it stops well

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Wrong track for this discussion.

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4 wheel drums on my Charger. Thats what is staying on it. Been to the track more times than I can count, and street driven almost every day. Never had a problem. To me, it stops well

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Wrong track for this discussion.

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Wrong track? Cars with air bags and traction logic are safer too. Better just park the old cars. After driving my modern Mopars w/modern brakes, I transition to the 69 w/11" hemi drums.

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As the OP, can I cancel this thread? I don't know how though. I have learned all I need to know, and it's definitely going south.

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Properly set up drum brakes will feel great until you get into a car with properly set up disc brakes. Either arrangement will work for the vast majority of the muscle car crowd.
...
My daily commute has put me in situations where GOOD brakes saved my bacon.

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As the OP, can I cancel this thread? I don't know how though. I have learned all I need to know, and it's definitely going south.

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What would you want to go and do a thing like that for? We're just getting warmed up. Welcome to Moparts in the winter.

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...The majority of the resto/musclecar crowd is content to armchairing it at shows, or parade driving, so they're content with drum brakes, and can't comprehend the need for discs, or even 4 wheel discs, or OD transmissions for that matter as well,.....for those of us who enjoy putting the speedometer in the triple digits on the road or track, 4 wheel discs, and large capacity rotors/calipers are mandatory

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Proporationing valve mounted under the dash which helps this car with factory Disc/ drum brakes perform great. I can lock all four at the same time.

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Safety footwear on too.

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tie shirt, shorts and flip flops, what else is there safety wise?

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Don't worry Feet's; firstly, I'm not going to be jacknifed in the middle of the road, and secondly, your little car isn't going to squash me like a grape!

for the record, I have nothing against you building your car as you like with 16" brakes if that's what you choose. The point I'm making is that you don't need that to be safe driving amongst traffic.

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I guess you've never seen a travel trailer on it's side after the driver ran over the moron that cut in front of him. The really nasty part is when another car slams into the roof of the overturned pickup. That makes for a nasty mess involving the highway shut down for hours and a visit by the coroner. Needless to say, they weren't home for the holidays.

Properly set up drum brakes will feel great until you get into a car with properly set up dic brakes. Either arrangement will work for the vast majority of the muscle car crowd. For those of us with a more spirited driving style only the discs will do. That doesn't mean we're a nusiance on the highway. I do enjoy playing a bit when there's nobody around.
My daily commute has put me in situations where GOOD brakes saved my bacon. When the guy entered the freeway and hit the left lane between 15 and 20 mph while I was moving along at 65 mph things got... puckery. I was able to slow the hot rod down but couldn't see the guy's tail lights over my hood. That was close. It's also just one of the many idiots I have to deal with on the roads.

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Of course I've seen trucks and trailers turned over many times; mine is a truck mounted camper not a trailer so I can't jacknife.....I was being semi faceceous about the idea that I'd be worried about your car hurting my truck which weighs 3x as much.

My friend Mark has a '62 'Vette with 11" drums on all 4 corners and I guarantee his stopping distance is shorter than many disc brake equipped SUV's and RV's that weigh 2x, 3x or more. I'm sure my 2008 ZX6R can stop quicker than your car, but it'd be silly to suggest your brakes aren't good enough or safe, right?

Ultimately we agree, you said it: " either arrangement will work for the vast majority of the musclecar crowd."

My POINT (again) is that there are many trucks, rv's and other vehicles on the road that have far longer stopping distances than a drum brake musclecar. You don't NEED 14" 4 wheel disks to be safe to drive on the road and I'm perfectly safe driving my truck and camper. If we all needed that level of braking to survive, then we should all drive new SRT-8's or 'Vettes and no truck or RV should be allowed on the public road system.

Nothing wrong with having as much brakes as you like but I strongly object to the idea that stock brakes render the car "unsafe" or the idea that the only cars that should have stock brakes are unused "trailer queens" (I'm responding to several other posters, not necessarily you on this sentiment)

Roadracing; fine, definitely get the big brakes. And as far as "spirited driving" goes; we all do it to some extent but triple digit speeds on public roads tend to get one in alot of trouble these days.

&

Dave

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And as far as "spirited driving" goes; we all do it to some extent but triple digit speeds on public roads tend to get one in alot of trouble these days.

&

Dave

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Yes, one must be careful on public roads, except when your on a road with no signs, no cops, no traffic, no nothing except asphalt. Then you just gotta do what you gotta do.

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Actually, this has been a great thread, and I am to be heartily commended for coming up with the topic. You may show your appreciation by sending me car parts. Or paypal.

Here is what I've learned so far;
1) Four wheel drums are more than adequate for nearly all driving situations you are likely to encounter while sober
2) Factory drums are marginal at best in any situation
3) You stand a 90% chance of ending up in a wheelchair just driving a drum-brake car to the store to get milk
4) Factory drum brakes attract overturned campers like a trailer park draws tornados. Or something like that. I didn't follow that part real well.
Got it!

I also learned:
5) Big disc setups are for looks
6) Big disc setups are indispensable
7) The bigger the discs, the quicker the jump to light speed
8) You can avoid speeding tickets if your rotors are big enough
and,
9) with big enough brakes, and $23K of chassis and suspension upgrades,our mopars can be made to handle as well as a Corolla!

So whose system should I buy; Mirkwood, Bimbo, or Bear?

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The car that won the Optima Street Car Challenge last month was a 69 Camaro with ABS brakes. I think it went from 0 to 60mph and back to 0 in 6.4 sec.

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These are the front brakes on that car, there is a whole build thread on lateral-g

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Actually, this has been a great thread, and I am to be heartily commended for coming up with the topic. You may show your appreciation by sending me car parts. Or paypal.

Here is what I've learned so far;
1) Four wheel drums are more than adequate for nearly all driving situations you are likely to encounter while sober
2) Factory drums are marginal at best in any situation
3) You stand a 90% chance of ending up in a wheelchair just driving a drum-brake car to the store to get milk
4) Factory drum brakes attract overturned campers like a trailer park draws tornados. Or something like that. I didn't follow that part real well.
Got it!

I also learned:
5) Big disc setups are for looks
6) Big disc setups are indispensable
7) The bigger the discs, the quicker the jump to light speed
8) You can avoid speeding tickets if your rotors are big enough
and,
9) with big enough brakes, and $23K of chassis and suspension upgrades,our mopars can be made to handle as well as a Corolla!

So whose system should I buy; Mirkwood, Bimbo, or Bear?

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Dave

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For 1969, the GTX got a little sportier with the optional Air Grabber cold air induction system (operated via a pull-tab beneath the dash) and matte-black stripe kit – both found on the hood of this featured GTX example. Testing of the big Belvedere garnered a 7.1-second 0-to-60 time and a 179-foot 65-to-0 stopping distance. While not on par with the lighter and less-optioned Road Runner, the GTX was truly “glued together well.”

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Here's a snippet from a magaine reviewing the 69 GTX:

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For 1969, the GTX got a little sportier with the optional Air Grabber cold air induction system (operated via a pull-tab beneath the dash) and matte-black stripe kit – both found on the hood of this featured GTX example. Testing of the big Belvedere garnered a 7.1-second 0-to-60 time and a 179-foot 65-to-0 stopping distance. While not on par with the lighter and less-optioned Road Runner, the GTX was truly “glued together well.”

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The latest review of the 392 SRT8 Challenger showed a 4250 lb car stopping from 60 mph in 114 feet.

Drum brakes won't kill you. They'll serve you well for many years. Disc brakes (and larger ones at that) will serve you just as well but hold an extra safety margin as well.

You have insurance on your car. You don't expect to have a crash but it's worth the price if there is an accident.
To me, brakes are the same way. Basic stuff works but I like the extra capacity.

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Good way to put it.

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Here's a snippet from a magaine reviewing the 69 GTX:

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For 1969, the GTX got a little sportier with the optional Air Grabber cold air induction system (operated via a pull-tab beneath the dash) and matte-black stripe kit – both found on the hood of this featured GTX example. Testing of the big Belvedere garnered a 7.1-second 0-to-60 time and a 179-foot 65-to-0 stopping distance. While not on par with the lighter and less-optioned Road Runner, the GTX was truly “glued together well.”

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The latest review of the 392 SRT8 Challenger showed a 4250 lb car stopping from 60 mph in 114 feet.

Drum brakes won't kill you. They'll serve you well for many years. Disc brakes (and larger ones at that) will serve you just as well but hold an extra safety margin as well.

You have insurance on your car. You don't expect to have a crash but it's worth the price if there is an accident.
To me, brakes are the same way. Basic stuff works but I like the extra capacity.

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In all fairness, the 69 GTX in that magazine test was rolling on ritz crackers. New challenger has some serious rubber under her.

However, a huge difference is the new Chally's braking performance is repeatable all day.

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