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What's your break-in recipe? #86713
07/10/08 10:35 AM
07/10/08 10:35 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 378
Troy, TX
7
74Sport Offline OP
enthusiast
74Sport  Offline OP
enthusiast
7

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 378
Troy, TX
Alright, guys, start-up time is fast approaching. A few more minor issues to resolve, then my son Aaron and I will be ready to crank up his new 360.

Yesterday, I talked to the mechanic that rebuilt his Holley carb. I asked him for suggestions on a break-in procedure. Since Aaron and I have only been involved in one previous project (his slant six Dart Sport), I need to do a little investigating to lay out a game plan for this new engine's initial start-up.

So, here it is --- give me your best list of things to do to prepare for breaking in his new engine, leaving out no minor detail. Spell it out as clearly as you can in the correct sequence, including all warnings and "oh, by the ways".

We have a '85 360 with:
Cylinders bored 0.030"
Lunati Voodoo mild cam with dual-coil springs and lifter kit
Mopar M1 dual-plane intake
Holley 3310-4 (750 cfm) 4bbl with new electric choke kit on 1" spacer
New stock electronic ignition components (ECU, volt. reg., coil)
Original distributor
Dynamax headers

If any other information is required, let me know. We are really getting excited to see it getting this close to completion.

Jerry


There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity. Ignorance is not knowing any better. Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.
Re: What's your break-in recipe? [Re: 74Sport] #86714
07/10/08 10:53 AM
07/10/08 10:53 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,884
Grand Prairie,Texas
stumpy Offline
I Win
stumpy  Offline
I Win

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 32,884
Grand Prairie,Texas
This is from the tech archives(link at the top of every page). Lots of good info and a good place to look before posting a tech type question.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/22.html

Re: What's your break-in recipe? [Re: 74Sport] #86715
07/10/08 10:53 AM
07/10/08 10:53 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,707
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda Offline
master
GomangoCuda  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,707
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
Start with this from the archives.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/22.html

(edit) Woops, Stumpy beat me to it by seconds.

Last edited by GomangoCuda; 07/10/08 10:56 AM.

In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
Re: What's your break-in recipe? [Re: GomangoCuda] #86716
07/10/08 10:56 AM
07/10/08 10:56 AM
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,592
None
71rm23 Offline
master
71rm23  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,592
None
Quote:

Start with this from the archives.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/22.html

(edit) Woops, Stumpy beat me to it by seconds.





Re: What's your break-in recipe? [Re: 71rm23] #86717
07/10/08 02:52 PM
07/10/08 02:52 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
L
Lefty Offline
master
Lefty  Offline
master
L

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
Here's mine, been using it for 30+ years with great results.

Once you've checked everything (fluids, etc) do two 15 minute drives and let the engine cool enough between sessions that you can put your hand on the motor.

Check fluids again, look for leaks under the engine.

Then drive the car with a 2500 rpm limit on the first drive. Add 500 rpm every 100 miles to the redline.

2500 rpm for 0-100 miles.

3000 rpm for 200-300 miles

3500 rpm for 300-400 miles

etc...


Don't baby it, but don't thrash it either. Make sure you hit the redline once every drive after the initial 15 minute sessions.

Don't change the oil until you've hit your final redline rpm/mileage.

Re: What's your break-in recipe? [Re: 74Sport] #86718
07/10/08 09:41 PM
07/10/08 09:41 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,153
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
I Live Here
DAYCLONA  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,153
Mass
Hmmmmm,.........

Well I've built a lot of engines over the decades SmBlks, BigBlks, Turbo/ Supercharged, Hemis, mopars, chevys, fords, pontiacs, etc.....I kinda break them in all the same,......Assuming the rebuild is a quality, professional level of assembly,.......your double valve springs, may be of concern if the seat pressure is excessive, because the first item on the "break-in" list is the cam,......I'd contact the cam manufacturer and see what their recommended seat pressure is during "initital" break-in, you may have to run a single spring during break-in and afterwards add the second,.....fustrating yes,.....but not as fustrating as a cam "desintergrating" in your engine turning all your hard work and $$$$ to trash!


Break-in, initial,.....pre-oil prior to running, if your car is not equipped with gauges for oil pressure, water temp, vacumm, etc,....add temporary gauges to monitor engine.....including a timing light

double check ALL fluids,....you'd be surprised what you might forget!

Premium oil and filter,....the Mopar HP filter@ $20 is a real nice filter, IT WORKS,......premium oil like, purple, lucas racing oil, etc

Antifreeze/water mix 50/50

Set engine at 0 degrees TDC or as close as possible, check all linkage, belts, hoses, etc

fill fuel bowls on carb, don't crank engine to prime for fuel! attempt engine start, confirm voltage to ignition,.....if your build is on the "money" and done right,....the engine should start, if not start with the basics, confirm fuel, air, spark, timing, compression,....assuming the engine starts, let idle, confirm oil pressure first, check for leaks, oil, water, fuel, vacumm,....set timing to 5 degrees BTDC, set idle, set fuel/air ratio, check fuel pressure, if you can't perform all these tasks with-in 2-3 minutes shut down engine, .....regroup and prepare again, restart motor, complete the above tasks with-in 2-3 minutes, everything all set, using the idle screw, or what throttle idle adjustment you have quickly bring the engine up to 2000-2200 RPM,....let it run at this rpm for 15-20 minutes, while observing the engines performance on any gauges, displays you have, or have added to moniter the engine,...also observe for leaks, be aware of strange sounds, strange smells are common as paint,and other engine coatings "cook",.....if any gauges, readings are suspect, lower engine speed to idle, shut down, allow to completely cool, during this time, check for your potential problem,rectify if any,restart the above procedure, if no problems,.....let the engine run that 15-20 minutes@ 2000-2200 RPM, lower to idle, shut down, allow to cool,.....next day, drain oil, change filter, oil,......start car, let idle, check all operating perimeters, if OK,.....allow car to come up to temp, do a few (dozen) throttle bursts, slowly,.....nothing more than 3500 RPM......let idle, check running perimeters, shut down, let sit for 5 mins, restart, idle check running perimeters, OK?,,,,a few around the block cruises, observing all vehicle perimeters, I like to stay within a few blocks, who cares if I look like an idiot going around in circles!,....cause if I have to shut it down, I'd rather have to push it a few blocks, rather than call a tow, or drag out a tow vehicle because I'm miles out,.......as the engine/car prove more reliable everyday,.....further cruising, with short occasional "pulls", nothing over 3500 RPM, for the first 250 miles, after that nothing more than 4500RPM till the 500 mile mark, at which, I would change the oil and filter AGAIN!, as well as the antifreeze

after 500 miles, start driving the car as you normally would, i'd keep excessive RPM "runs" to a minimum, until I put about 1500 miles on the motor,....avoid any hot/ overheating conditions esp during the fisrt initial 500 miles


OK,....this is my break-in procedure, some might agree, some won't, ....I've never lost an engine during break-in,......now? during a street race, or on the track?,....thats a different story!



Some people are "turned-off" by the initial 2000 RPM break-in engine speed for 15 or so minutes,....but keep in mind, the cam, is the heart of the engine, and it turns at 1/2 the RPM of the engine, so 2000 RPM at the crank, is only 1000 RPM on the cam,......and most cam manufacturers recommend 1000 RPM "cam" speed, during break-in

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