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Wiring headaches
#859116
11/21/10 01:27 AM
11/21/10 01:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 379
Oklahoma City, OK
moposcar
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 379
Oklahoma City, OK
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Guys,
My 56 has a new wire harness and everything is running fine, except two things.
1. My alternator is not charging. I am running a two field alternator, and one field terminal is connected to my green wire on the voltage regulator. The other field terminal I connected to the "alternator energize" wire from the wiring harness. Would this be correct? The wire from the wiring harness has power with the key on.
I have tried checking some diagrams online, and one shows a wire coming from the resistor to the field tab in addition to the one from the voltage regulator. Should I do the same? I am running a 4 pronged resistor.
Also, is there a way to find out if my alternator is actually producing current, but maybe not putting it back into the system?
2. My hazards don't work. The blinkers work, but for some reason the hazards don't. I haven't chased this down, and am not as concerned with this one as I am the alternator.
thanks,
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Re: Wiring headaches
[Re: moposcar]
#859117
11/21/10 05:52 PM
11/21/10 05:52 PM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 601
Clintwood VA
johnedod
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 601
Clintwood VA
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It depends on which voltage regulator you are using. If it's the old mechanical type you'll have one wire coming from the regulator to a field wire and the other field should be grounded. On the newer Mopar "flat" regulator There should be key on power to the blue wire on the regulator and also to the blue field wire. Then the green field wire runs back to the regulator to be grounded by the regulator. The regulator must have a good ground. You can check the alts output with a meter on the stud on the back of the alt. You can eliminate the regulator and check your alternator if you have power on the blue field wire, unhook the green field wire and run a ground wire from the 2nd field to ground. Do this just for a moment though cause if the alt is working it'll charge wide open. That way you'll know if its the alternator or not.
Johnedod
68 Road Runner
71 Road Runner
78 Power Wagon
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Re: Wiring headaches
[Re: moposcar]
#859119
11/22/10 03:05 AM
11/22/10 03:05 AM
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
Yancy Derringer
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 606
Montana
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Quote:
Thanks for the reply.
I just went out and tried it and it looks like my alternator isn't charging. Do I use the amps readout or volatage on the volt meter? Also, do I keep the big battery wire hooked up to the alternator when doing this test?
I have keyed on going to both the regulator(flat style), and to the one field on the alternator (does it matter which field connection?). I have a ground strap going from the engine to the firewall and connecting on the regulator.
Sounds likeyou are using a 70/ later "isolated field" alternator
Your "keyed" (ignition run) should go to the "top of the triangle" of the regulator, and it does NOT matter which field connection also gets "igniton run." Make DOUBLY sure that these are actually getting close to battery voltage.
Disconnect the field wire that feeds back to the regulator, and use a clip lead to ground that alternator terminal.
Run the car in "low" or "med" cruise and you should see charge, the more RPM, the more charge.
If you don't think so, double check with a voltmeter first at the battery, and if low, check right at the alternator stud. If it's low, down around 12, do the following:
First make sure that you have a good connection from the alternator stud (output) to the battery. If nothing else, build a temporary jumper out of AT LEAST no10 wire, go directly from the stud to the battery.
Disconnect the ign run feed to the field, hook a clip lead from the output stud of the alternator to one field terminal. Ground the other fiend terminal with a second clip lead
THIS should cause a charging condition. If it does not, you have alternator problems
If it does, either you have a wiring problem or a bad regulator.
To check the wiring to the regulator, assuming the first "clip lead" method worked, pull the connector off the regulator and identify the field lead (Ign run is "top of the triangle")
GROUND this terminal of the connector. If the alternator charges, AND you definately have "ign run" voltage at the other terminal of the regulator connector, it's probably a bad regulator. (New does not mean good)
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