another 4 speed question (pictures) updated
#851488
11/11/10 09:54 PM
11/11/10 09:54 PM
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Posts: 12,008 Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426
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So I have my tranny out, and the column is out also, so I can see all my pedals good and I see a problem. The factory linkage rod from the pedal to the z bar has a huge hole that slips over the stud, and has a retaining clip that is always a pain to get into place. Well I have everything out, and at my reach and I was going to cut the crappo stubs off, and make a rod with heim ends on it to eliminate the sloppyness. Also gona do the same with the clutch fork push rod. Has anyone ever done this and is it worth the time to do that? Also I read in the mopar muscle to lengthen my pedal linkage to 6" for a better ratio. Will all these combined be a good idea, and aid in how smooth the clutch feels?
Kasey
Last edited by moparnut426; 11/14/10 03:29 PM.
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Re: another 4 speed question
[Re: Moparnut426]
#851489
11/11/10 10:13 PM
11/11/10 10:13 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,549 Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
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Kasey the heim joint idea is well worth the time and money.When I re-fabbed my clutch linkage I just marked where the factory arms were and made my own arms off the Z-bar tube. You can use a 3/8'24 female heim for the adjustment rod.I suggest thick wall tube for the rod from the pedal to the Z-bar Gus
64 Plymouth Savoy 493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow 5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box Dana 60
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Re: another 4 speed question
[Re: Moparnut426]
#851490
11/11/10 10:16 PM
11/11/10 10:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,169 MI
68shifter
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2007
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MI
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I have done both. Off the pedals I use 1/2 rod with yolks on each end with 3/8 pins. Then down below I use 3/8 rod and yolks again. I haven't used heims that much but should work too. On the z-bar I changed both levers to change the ratio and for clearance. With the solid rods I could just put slight bends in them to get nice straight zero play push. Plus it allows for multiple adjustment sites for TO bearing clearance pending how much gap you need. Good luck
Last edited by 68shifter; 11/11/10 10:19 PM.
68' Barracuda (4 speed)
64' Savoy (4 speed)
65' Satellite (girl tranny)
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Re: another 4 speed question
[Re: Moparnut426]
#851492
11/11/10 10:29 PM
11/11/10 10:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,169 MI
68shifter
super stock
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super stock
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MI
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If your familiar with semi trucks the same things used to hold the brake chamber push rod to the slack adjuster. They see millions of cycles and are used in clutch linkage, throttle linkage and other areas. I have places where I can get a variety of sizes quickly and locally. They are shaped like a U with the base threaded and a pin through the "forks" that you cotter key in. Just allows for quick&easy disassembly. Like you said though, and Gus, heims are more than adequate especially if you know what ones to get. Good luck
68' Barracuda (4 speed)
64' Savoy (4 speed)
65' Satellite (girl tranny)
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Re: another 4 speed question (PICTURES)
[Re: Moparnut426]
#851501
11/14/10 12:08 PM
11/14/10 12:08 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,008 Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426
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last one of clutch pedal. I did cut the nuby off, but my phone died, so I just got it done and in the car.
Last edited by moparnut426; 11/14/10 12:09 PM.
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Re: another 4 speed question (pictures) updated
[Re: Moparnut426]
#851505
11/14/10 10:46 PM
11/14/10 10:46 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,172 Ohio
theclutcher
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top fuel
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Ohio
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they should be tite enough to not need locktite. most complain to tite. tial and error, measure old dowel vs new and note difference. put new dowel in drill press or drill and polish to comfortable fit. Not too tite to be a hardship, not to loose where they turn freely. At least thats what I do.
Last edited by theclutcher; 11/14/10 10:46 PM.
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Re: another 4 speed question (pictures) updated
[Re: Moparnut426]
#851511
11/15/10 04:28 PM
11/15/10 04:28 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,905 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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Quote:
I bought the dowels that are on here as a sponsor. Can clock them and use a set screw to secure them.
Kasey
Then yes you can just turn them , I think you use a wrench on flats on the outside of them , loctite the screws when done , use BLUE .
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Re: another 4 speed question (pictures) updated
[Re: Moparnut426]
#851512
11/15/10 04:31 PM
11/15/10 04:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,905 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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I Win
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Quote:
Is there a problem if the front bearing retainer is smaller than the hole in the bell housing? I dont think the bearing retainer is any kind of supporting member, Im just curious. I thought I have seen factory bell housings with 2 different holes.
Kasey
Yes there will be a huge problem , why is your retainer smaller than the hole in the bell? When you dial in the bell you dial it in to that hole the bearing retainer fits snugly into , if the bearing retainer doesn't fit tight in that hole what's the point of dialing the bell in ?
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Re: another 4 speed question (pictures) updated
[Re: sshemi]
#851527
08/12/11 12:47 PM
08/12/11 12:47 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,008 Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426
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Quote:
about the bearing retainer fitment, if you have a lakewood bell and buy the spacer ring there will still be no good fitment. My bell is like 0,04" bigger than the ring so its not perfect.
Mine fit really good. The space fit snugly in the bell, and fit snug on the bearing retainer. Maybey I got a good bellhousing
Kasey
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Re: another 4 speed question (pictures) updated
[Re: Moparnut426]
#851528
08/12/11 01:38 PM
08/12/11 01:38 PM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,128 sweden
sshemi
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sweden
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Quote:
I thought of using some 4wheeler tie rod ends, but in my car absolutely no room. I dont think any car would have the room inside the car between the brake lever, and clutch lever.
I think I have like 45 bucks in heim joints is all. I threaded everything myself.
Kasey
I guess its hard to understand my poor english. I ment to use the rod ends you have and just fab and weld new exact the same brackets (like twins)at the z bar so you can mount the rod end between them with a bolt to go through first a bracket then the rod end and then another bracket and finaly the nut. That would make it very strong and it would stop it from wanting to twist the single bracket at the z-bar.
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Re: another 4 speed question (pictures) updated
[Re: sshemi]
#851529
08/12/11 01:44 PM
08/12/11 01:44 PM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,128 sweden
sshemi
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Re: another 4 speed question (pictures) updated
[Re: Moparnut426]
#851531
08/12/11 02:16 PM
08/12/11 02:16 PM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,128 sweden
sshemi
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Re: another 4 speed question (pictures) updated
[Re: Moparnut426]
#851533
08/13/11 11:30 AM
08/13/11 11:30 AM
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,412 Toronto
mshred
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Toronto
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Quote:
Here ya go Matt. Found it and reposted it for ya. Maybee they can put this in the tech section so it dosnt get burried.
After driving the car, the only thing I did different was ise longer bolts, and use locktight on them, The jam nuts accually came loose, and I lost pedal once.
But overall its smooth as silk.
Kasey
Thanks Kasey, your the man!
I have never been a fan of the way the factory did these linkages, just seems so bloody sloppy. Im definitely going to be removing it and using some heim ends.
I wonder, has anybody ever actually replaced the arms going off the tubes of the z-bar as well? It seems like Gus mentioned something about it in the second post, but pics are always a bonus
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Re: another 4 speed question (PICTURES)
[Re: Moparnut426]
#851534
08/30/11 11:15 AM
08/30/11 11:15 AM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,128 sweden
sshemi
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Quote:
Here is the new one with male heims going into 3/8 ID bushing stock seamless pipe.
Did you have any fitment issues with the pedal to Z rod? I just looked at mine and it is not just a straight rod. It has some offset at one end. Or did you use some spacer at that end?
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