Good stuff. Clean all connections including grounds esp the bulkhead in/out or better yet Nacho's simple 2 wire bypass. 78 amp squareback from late 70's iirc (maybe 80's). attach stereos etc to the alt side w relays including the headlights. If want to bypass the ammeter run an 8ga from alt to starter relay protected w a 12ga fusible link and also a FL at the alt output. there's 2 sizes of alt pulleys & I would use the smaller one

When I was diggin thru my stash I saw 2 sizes but didn't measure either one but I would think yours unfortunately is the smaller one. EDIT pic is much larger (posted) than what it shows on my computer. You can see which one you have

Apparently no one uses relays on the headlight circuit anymore... The charging system mods are good I'm not arguing that.. But adding headlight relays means the majority of the current to the headlights never sees the bulkhead & the current to the dash lights is suddenly not drawn down by the head light load... Also very beneficial for the heater blower on high speed..

hey Randy, what are you talking about with adding a relay? how wld this be done?
thanks

i have the one with the smaller dual pulley

thanks for all the info Junky, looks like i have decision to be made, i think i am going to try to 1wire 1st and maybe the relay before i go to a full blown mod,

adding relays made a HUGE difference on my car with the brightness of the headlights. my stock dash lights always flickered a bit, but i don't recall how they acted after adding relays and now i run aftermarket gauges.

Typically I install a pair of standard Bosch 40a relays in front of the radiator yoke on the drivers side... Open the headlight harness & identify the power wires from the bulkhead to the high & low beam headlights... These are now going to be the control leads for the relays connect them to terminal 86 of each relay.. Add ground wires to terminal 85 of each relay... run a couple 12 gauge wires from the main terminal to terminal 30 add a 20 amp fuse to this wire & finally hook the headlight feeds up to terminal 87 keeping the high & low beams tied to their original feed.... Basically the relays act as the switch carrying the whole load, the original switch & wiring only carries the approximate 300ma load required to trigger the relays.... Adding the same to your blower motor means the blower switch no longer carries the load which often burns out the switch and the blower motor spins quite a bit faster...

Found a diagram in my photos....

so you did not have splice into the wires?

randy, is this a pic of the 40a rely?

thanks Randy, you read my mind , a visual is worth a thousand words, i think i can tackle it now with a diagram

thanks Randy, i will post update once i get everything installed, i have so many loose ends, feels like i am coming up with something new everyday that needs to be fixed, finally got my car on the road, everyday i find something else that needs attention! i am so thankful for MoParts.com and all You Guys helping me put the old girl back on the road

hopefully i can do this too,
thanks

Another good idea, I put mine under the battery tray. Can't even tell with the battery installed.