340 or 360? also suspension question
#83067
07/02/08 02:56 PM
07/02/08 02:56 PM
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 47
Redding, CA
RDJ
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Redding, CA
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I recently purchased a 67 Barracuda fastback. I want to make it into a nice streetable fast car, but plan on occasional bracket racing. I have access to either a 1972 340, or a late 70s 360 (from a Ramcharger). Which engine would suit my needs better?
It won't exactly be a daily driver, but will get driven a fair amount. A cam, compression boost, headers, maybe some head porting, will be in the plan somewhere. Any opinions on which engine would suit my needs better?
Also, I already have all of the disc brake stuff off a 73 swinger and the k member, plan on a sway bar, new pittman and ider arms. It currenly has Manual brakes and steering. Will I need the center link from a 73 up also? Is it the same steering column if I use the 73 k member? Are 73+ V8 and slant six center links the same?
I recently restored a 73 Dart Slant Six car, it was kind of my practice car, and I learned a lot, and I want to get the Barrcuda right the first time.
Last edited by RDJ; 07/02/08 03:17 PM.
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Re: 340 or 360? also suspension question
[Re: RDJ]
#83069
07/02/08 05:18 PM
07/02/08 05:18 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,229
Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
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People hear 340 and think of days of old when men were men and 340's were the rulers of the small block world. It has street creds as they say today. But 360's are cheaper and more cubes mean more power potential. Aside from the cubes they are the same engine. There are differences like head casting numbers and cast/forged cranks and bearing sizes etc but nothing that would make one a better engine in your case except the cubes. It's not like a 440 and Hemi where the block is the almost the same but the heads are radially different. If you want to impress the old farts who wax nostalgic for the good old days then get a 340. Otherwise get the 360 for the cost and the extra cubes. Heck get a 360 and put 340 on the Air Cleaner 
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Re: 340 or 360? also suspension question
[Re: RDJ]
#83072
07/02/08 05:48 PM
07/02/08 05:48 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,318
Southern Maryland
klunick
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master
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Southern Maryland
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I'm redoing my 67 Barracuda too and have faced the same choices. 340=larger bore, shorter stroke. Stroke a 340 and you end up with more displacement than stroking a 360, all things being equal. I believe 340's have a higher nickel content in the block. My 340 standard bore has no lip on the top. My 360 has a noticeable lip on it. If you are replacing almost everything, the cost is going to be about the same and they should both run nice. My choice was the 340 but I am keeping the 360 as a backup. For you, buying the 360 block would be cheaper than buying a 340. As far as the rest of your questions, yes you will need the 73+ centerlink, yes the steering column will work with a 73+ front setup, I don't know if the center link is the same for /6's and V8's. Questions you did not ask but should be answered, be sure to take the prop valve for the disc brake setup off the 73+ car. You will need it. Things like brakelines, hoses, rotors, calipers, etc. can still be purchased from NAPA or Advance auto. You can buy the whole front rebuild kit from Mancini. You get Moog parts and get everything except the Idler/pitman/and struts. I bought those from Just suspension but Mancini also sells them. Get polygraphite mounts for the strut rods. Oh yeah, you can also get swaybar endlinks from mancini but Napa has them cheaper. You currently have manual steering so plan on keeping it or changing out the column if you decide to go with power as the columns are different for manual and power. That is about it. Oh yeah, if your LCAs don't have the swaybar tabs you can buy them with the bar itself and weld them on. For some reason, They don't seem to mount in the same place as the originals do though. At least not from what I have seen.
67 Barracuda FB
69 Superbee
"Southern Maryland: If you want a good looking woman, you had better bring her with you"
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Re: 340 or 360? also suspension question
[Re: 69L78Nova]
#83074
07/02/08 07:47 PM
07/02/08 07:47 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,161
Los Angeles, CA
JF_Moparts
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super stock
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Los Angeles, CA
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Quote:
I ran my 360 up to 7800rpm every pass for 6 years. Recently rebuilt it to change pistons and heads, and it looked like brand new inside.
What mods did you make to get it to rev so high? When my 340 was last rebuilt, I was told that anything above the usual 6000-6300 was going to be mucho expensive.
Jim
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Re: 340 or 360? also suspension question
[Re: JF_Moparts]
#83075
07/02/08 08:06 PM
07/02/08 08:06 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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I'd trade 20 cubes for an internally balanced engine. I run a 4-speed, and a 360 is out of the question...not interested. If I wanted more cubes, I'd skip the 360 completely and build a 383/400. It's a snap to drop into an a-body.
7800 rpm out of a 360 on a regular basis. Please share that build.
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Re: 340 or 360? also suspension question
#83076
07/02/08 08:31 PM
07/02/08 08:31 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
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Quote:
I'd trade 20 cubes for an internally balanced engine. I run a 4-speed, and a 360 is out of the question...not interested. If I wanted more cubes, I'd skip the 360 completely and build a 383/400. It's a snap to drop into an a-body.
7800 rpm out of a 360 on a regular basis. Please share that build.
Huh???
I have a pretty nasty 360 and a 4 speed. Easy to do, balance a flywheel for the set up.
There are quite a few stock 360 crank/rod set ups turning 7200-7800 and mid 10's or better.
To the original poster, could you get the vin off the 72 340. Looking for a long lost engine or two for 720 340 cars... Thanks
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Re: 340 or 360? also suspension question
[Re: RobX4406]
#83079
07/02/08 09:00 PM
07/02/08 09:00 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Quote:
I'd trade 20 cubes for an internally balanced engine. I run a 4-speed, and a 360 is out of the question...not interested. If I wanted more cubes, I'd skip the 360 completely and build a 383/400. It's a snap to drop into an a-body.
7800 rpm out of a 360 on a regular basis. Please share that build.
Huh???
"I have a pretty nasty 360 and a 4 speed. Easy to do, balance a flywheel for the set up."
I'll stick to my T/A 340 and if I want more cubes I'll skip the 360 and go straight to a 383/400.
"There are quite a few stock 360 crank/rod set ups turning 7200-7800 and mid 10's or better."
I'd love to see the above build, but I'd like to see a STOCK 360 rod/crank set up turning 7800 regularly even more.
Sorry, but if I were the original poster, I'd sell the 340 and the 360 and build a 383 if the 340 was in question. I have been considering this very issue, for a new project here.
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Re: 340 or 360? also suspension question
[Re: AdamR]
#83081
07/02/08 09:55 PM
07/02/08 09:55 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,204
Fort Worth, TX
Clair_Davis
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Fort Worth, TX
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Having been through this thought process before, I think I'd go with a 360 next time. Mind you, I love my 340, but for messing around on the street the cubes are better. I would have a 360 now, but a 340 came with my Barracuda and it was recently rebuilt, so no need for heavy machine work. Even with a mild 272 Crane cam, it runs GREAT and is fairly torquey for a low squeeze engine. HOWEVER, the 360's that keep getting built on Moparts just plain WORK, and are making an easy 100lb-ft over my 340. You'll feel that behind the wheel, and see it on the time slips.
There's something to be said about a 383 or 400 in an A-body... they both act like REALLY big bore 340's with good heads, BUT, there's a weight penalty, a space penalty, and the iron heads aren't THAT much better than modern small block units. Put an AL head on the small block, and they're better than most any iron big block head right out of the box. I love a big block A-body, but a balanced chassis is more important to me now than it used to be, so I'm all about keeping weight off the nose any more.
If you can get a good deal on the 340, flip it and put the money towards a 360.
Clair
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Re: 340 or 360? also suspension question
[Re: Clair_Davis]
#83082
07/03/08 02:15 AM
07/03/08 02:15 AM
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 47
Redding, CA
RDJ
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Thanks for the replies! Yes, the 360 will be much less expensive for me, which leaves more for other things. I guess when I get the engine here at my house I will be bugging you all for the best build for my needs. I don't want to just start throwing performance parts on it without some thought as to how they will work together.
The guy with the 360 engine says it has J heads and an RV cam. I don't know much about these engines yet, but RV cam sounds as if it is more of a torque monster than a revver. I would like to go somewhere in between I think. Is getting into the 12's without compromising the streetability too much to ask?
Last edited by RDJ; 07/03/08 02:21 AM.
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Re: 340 or 360? also suspension question
[Re: RDJ]
#83084
07/03/08 02:32 AM
07/03/08 02:32 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
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I Live Here
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Quote:
Thanks for the replies! Yes, the 360 will be much less expensive for me, which leaves more for other things. I guess when I get the engine here at my house I will be bugging you all for the best build for my needs. I don't want to just start throwing performance parts on it without some thought as to how they will work together.
The guy with the 360 engine says it has J heads and an RV cam. I don't know much about these engines yet, but RV cam sounds as if it is more of a torque monster than a revver. I would like to go somewhere in between I think. Is getting into the 12's without compromising the streetability too much to ask?
Probably won't get there with an RV cam unless you put some juice on it.
12's, as in 12.99 or better, are pretty easy to hit. A comp XE268H cam and a good, well thought out package will get you there. Biggest issue will be heads, IMO.
Get the car to hook, with a 3000 stall and some 3.73-4.10's, and you're there.
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