There was a discussion on the Drydock about 'field-installed', which IIRC was a method to install PB on a MB pedal, it had extra pivot bracketry like you'd see on an A-body. There were some pics, too.

Post or PM me a link to the ebay booster and I'll see what I know about it.

Booster

My thought was to use the SSBC kit and this booster.

I have seen that booster on drumbrake cars, haven't seen it on a disc car (but I will admit I haven't seen everything!).

That part#, according to this auction and Rock Auto, fits 65-up cars, yet discs weren't officially available until 66 (I heard some copcars might've gotten Kelsey discs in 65). I'll go on a limb and say that is a drum/drum booster. Regardless, it's only $129 at Rock Auto.

Look at 54-73700 and 54-73600 at RockAuto. The -700 is the 'large flat one' I mentioned earlier (fits 71-73), and the -600 is the 69-70 disc style (looks much like the fabled 'Hemi booster') and is pretty much unavailable.

Check the Drydock too, there are a bunch of disc booster references there (but you'll hafta dig for them).

And FWIW, Rock Auto shows the 69-72 rotor (#7012) for $115. The rotor was always the expensive hangup for using factory 69-72 spindles, guys wanted the 73 spindles so they could use the $50 rotors. But guys always wanted more $$ for the 73 spindles, so overall it's almost a wash considering how much we spend on our cars overall.

The only difference between 69-72 and 73 is the bearings, seals and rotors. Other replacement parts are the same cost.

look up a booster for a 68 fury with disc brakes.
that will bolt up. did not actually try to buy one, but napa still lists it as availble. looked it up for someone else recently.

There were disc in 65, but very rare. you see the large single pot masters everyonce in a while for the disc cars.

napa told me they are rebuild yours only.

I'm using one I got off a 69 300 on my 66 NYkr. Haven't got it on yet but it "looks" about the same, diameter wise as the 66 one so it should fit. Mine is a console shift so it really isn't as much of an issue (no shifter interference). 73 will interfere with the column shift linkage.

My local Carquest store said he could get the 69 style one and IIRC it was around $130-$150 plus about $30 for the core which I didn't have at the time.

Kevin

You could look at this kit http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/dodge_plymouth_discbrake_conversions.html

I spoke with the owner at Carlisle a few years ago and he said it will work with the drum brake booster because the GM calipers it uses have pistons that are much larger than Mopar ones and don't require as much pressure to get the same clamping force.

Nice looking kit. Laser cut brackets, ( the Scarebird brackets if they haven't updated them look like at least 2 pieces welded together) aluminum hubs and it uses your drum brake spindles. 13" rotors optional.

For the ultimate you need to call member AndyF http://www.arengineering.com/caliper/viper2/viper_ab13.html for one of his Viper kits.

He doesn't list a kit for a C-body but I have heard of guys adapting a Wilwood B-body kit to a C-body by either drilling out an existing hole or relocating one in the bracket so maybe he could do the same.

Kevin

I'd be very cautious re: the booster. The comment above (fine in normal driving, watch out in emergency) are well taken. From my experience, you need a dual-tandem or large-diameter booster, even with the late Dodge Truck calipers (Scarebird).

Pix of completed Scarebird setup (from Mopar Action article) attached.

Rick

Based on the 2 quotes, your assessment would be logically correct. However, using a drum booster goes against everything I've read about a disc conversion.

I have read many places that discs require higher line pressure to operate than drums do. The boosters were 'increased' for disc applications, and this can be verified easily - every C-body parts listing will show different boosters between disc and drum. There's gotta be a reason the engineers did that.

Many years ago I swapped to discs and installed a '71-73 disc booster on a manual-brake pedal. Pedal effort was very light and the car had excellent braking performance in normal/agressive driving. Control was good due to the long pedal travel. I would be curious how a drumbrake booster might stiffen up the pedal feel in that application.

However, for someone doing it from scratch, if you're going to deviate from factory combinations, be prepared to do some test panic stops, and be prepared to swap some parts out if necessary. I wouldn't be scared to try a few combos as I have a handful of boosters and rebuilt master cylinders are cheap. If I was outside the USA, though, I'd try to find the proven factory combination of parts the first time.

Well I did do a disc swap on a 68 fury with 73 spindles.
I kept the drum booster and master cylinder.

It will stop the car. And under normal braking conditions it is fine.

BUT, I could never lock up the brakes so I know I did not have full braking potential.

You can get away with it, and you are probably already used to planning way ahead on stopping.
I picked up a 68 disc booster to try out, but got rid of the car before every trying it out to see if it made a difference, so I cannot say for sure if it matters.

In regard to swapping the late C-body disks onto the early C-body, there MIGHT be a way to do it. According to this post in the tech archives, it might be possible to swap the entire front sub-frame from the 75 into a 68.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/susp/2.html

I've NOT tried this, or even measured it yet. But I really like the idea of swapping in a later subframe.