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Re: Cheapest 5 speed conversion for my Duster? [Re: wildman340] #79897
06/26/08 10:57 PM
06/26/08 10:57 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi Offline
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Quote:

Will a T5 bolt up to a Mopar bellhousing?




Of course not..need an adapter housing

Re: Cheapest 5 speed conversion for my Duster? #79898
06/26/08 10:58 PM
06/26/08 10:58 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi Offline
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Quote:

Do you have pics where the cable mounts to your Z bar?

Where or how do you get Mopar clutch with Ford T5 splines.

Thanks Again, Jeff




I did not use any sort of cable..my bellhousing uses a clutch fork and the factory Z bar.

Oh, and you'll need a custom speedo cable too

Re: Cheapest 5 speed conversion for my Duster? [Re: wildman340] #79899
06/26/08 11:05 PM
06/26/08 11:05 PM

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I'm sure you have to redrill it. I don't know if it needs to be machined in any other way.
Jeff

Re: Cheapest 5 speed conversion for my Duster? #79900
06/26/08 11:06 PM
06/26/08 11:06 PM
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Posts: 4,204
Fort Worth, TX
Clair_Davis Offline
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Start with a QuickTime bellhousing to mount a T-5, and fill it full of Mopar linkage to keep it simple. You'll want to check what input shaft length is correct for the QT, but the longest - and probably most Mopar-friendly - units are the 7.85" input shaft units. These were typically used on the 94-up Mustangs, and some aftermarket units. One of the best bets would probably be the 1999-up T-5's that come behind the 3.8L V6 cars. They're rated at 300 lb-ft, and carry the PN 1352-260. They come with an electronic speedo, but maybe those parts can be swapped with cable-output parts.

If you do the swap, document the snot out of it as there are lots of other folks interested, too.

Clair

Re: Cheapest 5 speed conversion for my Duster? [Re: OzHemi] #79901
06/26/08 11:19 PM
06/26/08 11:19 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,204
Fort Worth, TX
Clair_Davis Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Will a T5 bolt up to a Mopar bellhousing?




Of course not..need an adapter housing




Actually, one of the later-70's multi-pattern aluminum bells have something like 3 of the 4 bolt holes in the right place, they're just not drilled or tapped. The 4th bolt needs an ear welded on to the bellhousing, but that ought to be easy surgery. I looked closely at that option when I was about to buy a used Tremec I found a good deal on. If it's an OD bell, you'll need to make a spacer ring to mate the T-5 input bearing retainer to the bell, but those are easy, too. How much all that work would cost is an issue, though, and I think I'd just get the QT and be done.

Clair

Re: Cheapest 5 speed conversion for my Duster? [Re: Clair_Davis] #79902
06/27/08 12:18 AM
06/27/08 12:18 AM

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This will be a winter project, I'm just gathering parts now. I will document it if no one else does.

What makes the 99 trans better than the 94? I have found some good deals on both, but I can get a 94 cheaper.

I'm can't believe that more people have not done this swap.
Jeff

Re: Cheapest 5 speed conversion for my Duster? #79903
06/27/08 01:53 AM
06/27/08 01:53 AM
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Not2farfromNashville, TN
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Re: Cheapest 5 speed conversion for my Duster? #79904
06/27/08 08:19 AM
06/27/08 08:19 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,204
Fort Worth, TX
Clair_Davis Offline
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If the tag # on the 94 is -219, -242**, -246, or -253****, then there's nothing functionally different between the -260 unit used in 1999-up Mustang V6's.

** NOTE: The -242 trans was used in the 94-95 Mustang Cobra only.
**** NOTE: the -253 trans was an aftermarket trans sold through FMS, and they're not common. Rated at 310 lb-ft continuous.

All those units have the longest input at 7.85", so they'd be the easiest to adapt to a Mopar bellhousing. If you have - or can get - a shallower bellhousing, then you can use some of the other short input T-5's and pull the trans a little closer to the block, helping the t-bar X-member situation.

This swap hasn't happened more often because the (undeserved, IMHO) perception is that the T-5 is a weak trans. Plus, there may be no way around some surgery to install the thing, and if you've got to cut, why not go ahead and get one of the beefier Tremecs out there now.

Clair

Re: Cheapest 5 speed conversion for my Duster? [Re: Clair_Davis] #79905
06/27/08 08:51 AM
06/27/08 08:51 AM
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MARYLAND
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The '87-'92 Mustang 5.0L were rated at 300 foot pounds of torque at 3,000 rpm stock from the factory. Lots of guys bolted slicks on those cars when they were new and hit the strip. The 8.8 ford rear would typically go out before the trans would. Most T5 trans problems were from guys trying to knock the right headlight out when shifting into third.

I am the original owner of mine and I was quite young when I bought it. I have run it down the strip power shifting (hold gas to the floor and going through the gears) more times then I can count. Not to mention power shifting it on the streets. Today it shifts better now then it did when it was new and the trans has had nothing but fluid changes. Of course I am wiser now and don't beat on the car like that any more.

Now what I don't know is if the 5.0L Mustang T5s had stronger internals then T5s found in other cars?

Re: Cheapest 5 speed conversion for my Duster? [Re: Clair_Davis] #79906
06/27/08 08:55 AM
06/27/08 08:55 AM
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Ansonia, CT
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When I did my Tremec swap I used a Jeep 4.0L TO bearing that fit retainer tube perfectly. Probably would work the same for a mustang tranny as I think my tremec and a ford tranny share the tube diameter. I would highly recomend upgrading to a steel bearing retainer if your T-5 is alum.

I was going to suggest the 94 & up T5 because of the longer input shaft too. But an FYI, the 4 cyl boxes are WC's but have a lower torque rating due to steeper 1st gears. They have minor differences in input length but the big difference is the pilot at the tip is a different diameter.

As for adapting the T-5 to the engine, why not look for a used scattershield. Thats what I did with my tremec.

I removed the bearing retainer and had it cut on a lathe to mopar size so it fit the bell. Then I mocked it up, marked the bolt holes and drilled thru the bell with a hand drill. Then I bolted it up with flange nuts inside and tack welded them in place. Easy as pie.

As for the clutch disk, you will probably have to buy a mopar pressure plate and a corasponding diameter disk with ford splines.


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