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Pretty easy to wire up. Two relays. Relay #1 powers both hi-beam lights and relay #2 powers both low-beam lights. Other than the hi/low's being in physically seperate headlight buckets, the conversion is exactly the same as a 2-headlight car.

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I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.

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you can do that but you defeat the purpose of the relay in the first place, unless you run a heavy wire from the batt to the relay, but that would also give you a false reading on the amp meter...

The way i did it, was if you look right next to the battery, there is a connector for the forward harness, you can just use crimp on connectors and make your own intermediate harness and wire it to the relay. Run wires from the battery, and you can locate the relays under the battery if you want it hidden. i just put mine on the top. you'll have to wire in jumpers for the parking lights, and directional wires, the good thing about doing it this way is you don't cut/alter any wire harnesses, you can simply remove the jumpers/wires you made and plug the factory connector back together. But keep in mind, your amp gauge on the dash (stock) will give you a false reading when the headlights are on from back feeding the amp gauge. I found that putting the relays in made a HUGE difference, all that factory wiring had alot of resistance due to age and that the gauge of the wire in the first place was too thin/marginal. In the stock setup my headlights pulled 24amps, with the relays, 11amps. What a huge difference, and a huge load off the stock electrical system, and no more dimming of the headlights at idle.....next up is the tail lights.....they pull ALOT on a 69 charger with 4 1157's and 2 single element bulbs (running lights).....about 15amps!!!!

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Don't ever use crimp connectors and make sure there is a fuse between the power source and the relays. You don't want to take a chance on burning down your car.

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why? good quality connectors, good crimp tool, I've never had a problem, besides everything is fused..separate...

besides; last time i checked the whole car is factory crimp connectors....

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Don't ever use crimp connectors and make sure there is a fuse between the power source and the relays. You don't want to take a chance on burning down your car.

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why? good quality connectors, good crimp tool, I've never had a problem, besides everything is fused..separate...

besides; last time i checked the whole car is factory crimp connectors....

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Crimp connecters don't provide the same quailty connection as a soldered connection, and for that matter the connection should be crimped and then soldered. I'm glad you have everything fused.

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69Charger.....your pic looks scary ! Should have some fuses on there !

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there is fuses on all the relays, you just can't see them well in the pic, they are on the front of the pic, there is one to the left, and 2 to the right.
i just wired these all in temporary, but basically it is wired the same as the diagram posted, one day when i have nothing to do, probably this winter I'll relocate it all under the battery maybe put it all neat and tidy in a little box with externally accessible blade fuses....

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I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.

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I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.

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I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.

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Please explain how you wire one relay in to do the job?

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I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.

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Please explain how you wire one relay in to do the job?

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The green wire from the light switch turns on the relay for the direct current path from the battery.I run a hot wire from the starter relay.Wire it back to the dimmer switch and the current takes its normal route to the headlamps.Eliminating any current for the headlamps traveling through the AMP Gauge.

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I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.

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Please explain how you wire one relay in to do the job?

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The green wire from the light switch turns on the relay for the direct current path from the battery.I run a hot wire from the starter relay.Wire it back to the dimmer switch and the current takes its normal route to the headlamps.Eliminating any current for the headlamps traveling through the AMP Gauge.

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I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.

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Please explain how you wire one relay in to do the job?

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The green wire from the light switch turns on the relay for the direct current path from the battery.I run a hot wire from the starter relay.Wire it back to the dimmer switch and the current takes its normal route to the headlamps.Eliminating any current for the headlamps traveling through the AMP Gauge.

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So what do you do or how do you wire one relay for both high and low beams?

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I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.

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Please explain how you wire one relay in to do the job?

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The green wire from the light switch turns on the relay for the direct current path from the battery.I run a hot wire from the starter relay.Wire it back to the dimmer switch and the current takes its normal route to the headlamps.Eliminating any current for the headlamps traveling through the AMP Gauge.

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I see what you are doing. Running the load through the ammeter is just part of the problem. The way you are doing it you still can have voltage loss at the dimmer switch and connector as well as the bulkhead. The correct way is to use 2 relays for both high and low beams and bypass all the inherent weak areas the cars are known for.

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I don't see any reason to use 2 relays. I use one and wire it in at the dimmer switch. No wire cutting and it is hidden under the carpet and left kick panel.

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Please explain how you wire one relay in to do the job?

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The green wire from the light switch turns on the relay for the direct current path from the battery.I run a hot wire from the starter relay.Wire it back to the dimmer switch and the current takes its normal route to the headlamps.Eliminating any current for the headlamps traveling through the AMP Gauge.

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I see what you are doing. Running the load through the ammeter is just part of the problem. The way you are doing it you still can have voltage loss at the dimmer switch and connector as well as the bulkhead. The correct way is to use 2 relays for both high and low beams and bypass all the inherent weak areas the cars are known for.

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I've never had any problem with the wiring past the light switch on these old cars. It is always the bulkhead-amp gauge-switch.

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Here is a semi-reliable comparison.

I just had my car rewired with a Painless Harness. Had relays put on the headlights. Running replacement GE sealed beams for now.

My friend and I bought the Hella 5.75" housings for my Roadrunner and his Charger. We put the housings on his Charger first. He had the ORIGINAL sealed beams on his car and candles would have been an improvement. We popped the Hellas on and gained a noticeable improvement. The car is now safe to drive at night.

But, the difference is in the relays. My Roadrunner with the GE (non-halogen) sealed beams is brighter even with the engine not running than his Charger with the Hellas. He not only has higher wattage bulbs and a better light pattern. The car isn't back from the wiring job yet, but when it does those Hellas are going in and I think it is going to be the end game.

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Here is my two relay setup for 2bulbs

http://www.goodysgotacuda.com/Headlights.html

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Bringing this thread back from the dead... when you guys are putting in these relays for the headlights, are you putting the parking/turn signal lights on the relays also, or just leaving them on the factory harness?

Darren

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Here is my two relay setup for 2bulbs

http://www.goodysgotacuda.com/Headlights.html

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the same for 4 head ligts just that high beams position will drive 4 beams. Is easy for a single relay.

HOWEVER I still would take the power from alt stud or any point on alt side of power to get teh right reading on ammeter.

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One more for this thread... what size of fuse are you guys putting between the alternator stud and the relays?

Thanks,
Darren

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One more for this thread... what size of fuse are you guys putting between the alternator stud and the relays?

Thanks,
Darren

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