Excellent, sir! I appreciate it!

OK folks, its now (for me) no longer a can it be done topic, but a "i dunnit" topic lol. After several hours of painstaking work, The truck is running on the HEI module....and let me say, wow. I wasnt sure that it would make a huge difference, but it did! Acceleration is is crisper, idle is better (i actually had to turn the idle down a tad!), and over all just feels more responsive! If you decide to do it, you be the judge. Now, on to how i dunnit. First things, first. The parts. I decided I was going touse an e-corecoil, because i wanted maximum benefits. I decided on a coil from a 1996-2000 chebby pickup or SUV because it has a a bracket, and a mounting place with a heat sinc for the module ($25 at the wrecking yard))! I installed an MSD HEI module that a buddy gave me (free, but you can get an HEI moduleat O'Reilly's for $25). And of coarse, wiring connectors and other realted supplies. My install is a little more involved because of the setup i chose, and because i modified (or simplified actually) my engine harness. I decided come hell or high water, this was gonna work, and i removed the wiring for the ballast resisitor and the ecu, as well as the original coil wires. You dont have to do this, you can choose to leave your original wiring just in case.

Ok now for pics (if you decide to use a canistor coil, some of this obviously won't apply):
This is the coil with bracket, and module heat sink i got:

The module on the 1996 chebby is a bit different, so some modification is neccassry. The mounting holes on the 4-pin module are the same, but one the heat sincs fins will have to be removed:
After removal:

Also the locator nubs on the module will have to be removed. The nub:

Removed:

When mounting the module, Its important to use the thermal grease. So have gotten away with not using it, but i am looking for longevity, so i recommend it. I put some on the bracket part of the mount:

and on the module:

With module assembled, this is what it looks like:

Then I added my relay (also not required, but recommended). I simply drilled out one the aluminum rivets that hold the coil to the bracket, and put a bolt through to the relay. Makes for a nice "all-in-one" unit!

For connectors, i obtained the sealed connector for the coil when i when to the junk yard, and these GM alernator pigtails I got at Autozone for $3 areperfect. I got two of them. You'll notice one of the pins of the module is smaller thanthe rest, but with the connectors, i used, it doesnt really matter:

Ok, now, the COIL WIRE. This can be tricky! The coil I chose has a VERY UNIQUE plug-in. I ended up buying and ENTIRE set of plug wires for a 1996 chebby truck, and then getting some wire ends from Accel and modifying one (i have extra wires if ya need lol). With my modified wire, these are the ends now:

Next i started wiring it up. I will post a schematic for my set up here shortly. Here we see it slowly taking shape (Important note: You need a good ground for both the module and the relay. I ran a wire from the ground pin on the relay to a mounting screw on the module. This grounds the relay through the module, and the module is grounded through the bracket. To ensure the bracket grounds properly, i sanded the paint off the mounting holes, so when bolted down, it would be grounds good)

This the module to distributor pigtail i made up:

This is my firewall/coil setup pre-HEI. As stated previously, I removed all the components for the originally setup, and modified my wiring harness, but you dont have to do that.

after installing the HEI "component":

And all buttoned up and running (actually, its was running when i snapped the pic :
)

Ok, now for the wiring details.....gimme a bit while i get all the details gathered up....

Ok, here is the diagram for MY setup. You may have to tailor to suit your needs:

And here is a basic simplifed version for those desiring to use a canistor style coil. I want to reaffirm one detail. If you use a .5 ohm canistor coil, to keep from cooking the coil you MUST use a ballast resistor. If you use the late model coil from a "lean burn" system you don't need the ballast. Some have gotten away with not using the ballast on the .5 ohm coils, but it is NOT advisable! Ask me how I know!

very good info.. I want to this on my 87 RC. wanna do it again?