I am planning on installing a stroked 383 in my Dart where a slant six currently sits. I have both of the following k-frame set-ups available to do the swap. I have a big block k-frame, mounts and sway bar from a 68 383 Barracuda. I also have a 73 A-body small block k-frame with sway bar and a pair of Schumacher small block to big block mounts for it. I bought the 73 set-up figuring the 68 Barracuda set-up would be worth more to sell and I also like the idea of the spool mount k-frame. However, I have been hearing that the Schumacher mounts set the engine back toward the firewall somewhat from the stock location and sometimes this causes some problems with things like headers fitting properly. Does anyone know if this is true? Which set-up would you use if you were doing this swap?

You can modify the spool K frame just like Chrysler did to create the Direct Connection over the counter piece and use factory big block spool mounts , assuming you can find them .

Me I'd use the Factory Big block K since you have it .

Sell the original big block k-member and mounts, use the sway bar and modify the 73 V8 k-member to Direct Connection specs.

From what I have heard, the Schumacker mounts are designed to position the motor in the stock location. I have yet to see a case where they did not. I have their replacement mounts in my V8 K frame 360 Frankenduster. Eveerything lines up as it should.

Hi 1970RT,

In case you want to sale the 68 383 Kframe, let me know bro, thanks

Yes, the Schumacher mounts put the engine in the stock location, BUT why in the world would you pay $160 for mounts when you have to modify the k-member anyway?

Yes, on the spool mount k-member you have to shorten the driver side saddle and drill a new 1/2" hole.

If you decide to make DC Big Block K frame out of you 73 Small Block one. That is all Ma Mopar did. I have a Template we made off a a DC one back in 1982. It clamps right into the 4 K frame to body holes. All you have to do is cut the mount boxes at the center of hole in box. Lay the pieces aside. Cut a little off of boxes, it differs on each side. Bolt the first pieces you cut off to the Template, butt the box pack togeter and weld. Add some plates and Gussits which DC did not do for extra strength. It drops and slides the mounts back. Also you need to cut a small notch where the steering box bolts on for mount clearance and cut the front of the left support angle if you are going to run an HV oil pump. Very simple. I cannot tell you how many we built back in the day instead of paying $350 for the same exact thing from DC. You just use the stock BB spool mounts with this. You are welcome to borrow my template if you want.

Not to hi-jack this post, but wasn't the old DC K-frame built wrong? I ask about big block A-body K-frame and was told that if I got a DC piece that I would have to cut the mounts loose and move them back almost a inch perside. Does that ring a bell???

I have read some complaints on them on here. You only slide the top part of the mount back 1/2 inch or so and even less on the passenger side so I do not know where the 1 inch comes from. I know for a fact the ones I always built were even better than the DC ones and never had any complaints or issues. We sold them for 100 using their supplied small block spool type K-members each and did quite a few. I cannot say if the DC ones were bad or not. Just was trying to save the guy some $$$. I am sure some of the BB a-bodies here in Pa and Ohio still have the K members we built in them.

The actual measurements are 1-3/16" on the driver side and 13/16" on the passenger side. The one DC k-member that I used for measurements was slightly different than how I build them now, but considering the quality control of the original pieces that is not surprising.

That's what I was talking about. Thanks guys. That's what this is all about, helping each other out.

After re-reading what I wrote I don't think I was completely clear. The measurements that I posted are from the stock small block location. The actual DC k-member that I used as a measuring tool was at 3/4" and 1", so I had to adjust that by 1/16" and 3/16".

I swapped a 413 into a Dart Sport MANY years ago and just used stock big block spool mounts and a BFH to make clearance for the exhaust manifolds. Don't recall any issues with it other than the used engine was junk.

Kevin

All the Schumacher mounts I have seen used worked good also!

I'd use the 68 383 K frame, too. I ran into a similar problem trying to sell my newly done 451 stroker that I originally built for my 68 Formula S barracuda. We shaved one mount on the side to duplicate the front mount like my orig 383. Now, I can only sell the motor to someone w/ an abody K frame. I don't think Shumacher makes mounts for my scenario, but would recommend you switch K frames & save yourself the expense of conversion mounts, etc.