340/416 sb ri\unning HOT suggestions PLEASE!
#75762
06/18/08 10:11 PM
06/18/08 10:11 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 599 Spartanburg SC
MoparDan
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 599
Spartanburg SC
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I've got a sb 416, new everything, re-cored, wider than stock, 3 core 26" radiator; running a factory shroud; new thermostatic fan clutch which I tested using the "3/4 tape test",- the fan seems to be turning fine. the fan blades are seting about 1 3/4 inch away from the radiator. there is a cleared, fins streightened, condensor and a new trans cooler in front of the radiator. new, if I remember correctly, 180# thermostat which I drilled two small holes to allow water flow. Theromostat is opening and closing. running a 50/50 mix with temp-cooler poured in. Engine is timed at about 35/36 degrees all in at about 3000 rpm. The car has a factory temp gauge, which seems to be reasonably accurate. The problem is when I get the car crusing after about 5-6 miles the temp gauge is midway between hot and cold. Then creeps up a little more, just past midway...stays there then I get it home... idleing it begins to creep up toward hot...I shut it off. I can feel the water at a fast-boil when I feel the (hard) upper radiator hose. Header temps will vary between 400 and 1000+ (at #6, previously just after break-in #4 and #6 would be starting to glow! now they are down to 6-700) Could there be a blocked water passage? The engine was nasty in a barn for a while when I got it. The machine shop, (who's attention to detail I seriously question) cleaned it and bored it as well as rebuilt the heads. The engine builder has no clue. I have had the car running about a year, during which time I have maybe put 40 miles on it due to hot header temps and now overheating worries. Any suggestions are welcome! Please help.
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Re: 340/416 sb ri\unning HOT suggestions PLEASE!
[Re: MoparDan]
#75764
06/18/08 10:44 PM
06/18/08 10:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,144 Arkansas
340727dart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,144
Arkansas
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Glowing headers are indicative of late timing.
Before you start worrying yourself into an ulcer, you need to get a good mechanical temperature gauge so you will know exactly what the temperature is. Did your engine builder remove the drain plugs in the block when he cleaned it? I'm betting no. They can be a real bear to remove but you will be surprised what comes out of the block after 30+ years. Once you find out the temperature with a good gauge, be sure to post it here.
Your life is not my fault. My life is none of your business.
Speech is free only if you agree with those in control.
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Re: 340/416 sb ri\unning HOT suggestions PLEASE!
[Re: MoparDan]
#75771
06/19/08 07:01 AM
06/19/08 07:01 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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the temp is OK out on the road moving but there's only a problem at idle?(at home it creeps up to Hot). Unless your initial timing is not advanced enough then I would guess classic not enough airflow or inadequate water pump.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: 340/416 sb ri\unning HOT suggestions PLEASE!
[Re: mrob]
#75774
06/19/08 09:00 AM
06/19/08 09:00 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,129 New Mexico
UCUDANT
Troll Hunter
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Troll Hunter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,129
New Mexico
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Quote:
Dan, Do you have a leakdown tester? If so, you can see if the head gaskets are sealing correctly. Another way to check for this is to use a chemical indicator fluid that changes color if combustion gases are entering the cooling system. A company called Lisle Tools makes an inexpensive combustion leak detector kit (P/N 75500). Even if either of these tests aren't positive, at least you've ruled them out as possibilites.
Nice to rule thes out but if the vehicle is getting hot only after shut then cylinder pressure should not be the cause.
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Re: 340/416 sb ri\unning HOT suggestions PLEASE!
[Re: 65cuda]
#75777
06/19/08 12:49 PM
06/19/08 12:49 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675 Columbia, CT
moper
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675
Columbia, CT
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Sounds like there's something generating heat, or the cooling jacket's crudded up. The block should be airless shotted, it blasts the crud off the cores, and boucnes all thru it, so everything gets cleaned. What oil pump are you running, and what pressure does it maintain? The latest 422 I did, even at 9.8:1 and +.060 overbore, runs cold with a similar setup. Only hits 180 on long light throttle hills in 90-895° heat. Good efficient engines dont run hot. And I think it's more than timing or fuel.
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
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