Here's one that always get some opinions flowing.

Back in 96 I wanted an overdrive Torqueflite for my 440and of course there were none. Still aren't, in fact. There wereguys selling adapter kits but I don't like adapters so I cut off the bellhousing from a big block 727 then welded it to a small block A518.

This is the hydraulic (non-electronic) shift version of the 46RE.

Did it work? Yes - very well. I just took it out after 12+ years. No leaks or other problems of any sort. I run a 4.10 gear which turned into about a 3:1 ratio after the OD is engaged.

I also learned that a lot of the talk you hear about factory machining being poor is just wrong. Back then I indicated about 20 transmission cases and found they were all within .005" and most were around .002-3.

This particular case showed about .0015" runout.

Post deleted by stumpy

id like to know how you got the case within spec ( lined up)

That's awesome!

I made a jig,essentially, that registered on the dowel pin holes in the bellhousing and the pump housing register on the trans. It held it all in alignment during welding. The proof of that is in the fact that the runout was very minimal after it was all done. Also after welding I put the whole case in the lathe and trued up the face so it is perpendicular to the C/L of the crankshaft and parallel with the engine block mounting face.

I actually made two - the first one had some slight problems I chalked up to learning. It would still work, though.

Two things that are interesting:

1) There is a certain point on a 727 case where small and big block cases 'come together' - that's where you make the cut. The match up is almost perfect at that point.

2) When welding the two pieces together, a lot of amperage is needed due to the large heat sink effect of the aluminum. .080" disappeared in the process. What that means is I had to leave .080" extra on the bellhousing (or on the case) and it would 'suck in' during weld to arrive at the desired final case depth (the distance from the face of the bellhousing to the face of the pump register).

One other thing - the aluminum of the 727 case, being over 20 tears old, had a lot of oil soaked in it. No matter how much it was cleaned ahead of time, it would 'boil out' and made welding tough.

Before UltraBells became available, adapters or welding were the only way to make a BB 518. Here's a pic I took at a local swap meet about 10 years ago.

Inside bell view.

ok, what would you charge to do this?? or give us directions on how to do it.. Plzzzzzzzzzzzzz

The Ultra bell has a few issues you might or might not be able to live with. First, I believe it is limited in the size of torque converter it can hold; it is smaller internally than a stock bell.

Second, it attaches to the trans via the pump bolts. These bolts are small (5/16" diameter), long, and were never intended to anything but attach the pump to the case. If you look at the case itself, several of the threaded bosses are very minimal - there's not much meat around them.
As a minimum, I would HeliCoil all of the holes to get steel threads. I'd be surprised if you could get 50,000 miles in a street driven application without some sort of pump related problem (like leaks) or even a case/bell separation issue.

Also, as a race piece, I do not believe it offers all of the factory bosses. So if you have a column shifter or kickdown linkage you might be forced to rework your linkage which is seldom pretty.

There was a company in Iowa I believe that is selling 518's converted to BB and they are doing it exactly the way you did.

Kevin

Here is a place that does them, and a few years ago MCG featured one in the magazine. I believe from a place place in Iowa.


http://phoenixtrans.com/html/chryslertrans.html



Chrysler A-500 A-518



Introduced in 1989 and 1990 these transmissions are essentially the good, strong 904 and 727 trans with .69 to 1 overdrive added to the rear. 4th gear is controlled electrically, requiring a simple toggle switch to engage 4th gear or lockup in stock applications.

Dimensions are very close to the 904 and 727 except for length and extra bulk in the housing to accept the overdrive assy. All linkages including kick down are the same as the 902 and 727 easing swaps considerably.

A-500 Overall Length 38” Face to mount distance 24 3/8 Ratios: 1st 2.74, 2nd 1.54, 3rd 1.00, 4th .69

A-518 Overall Length 38” Face to mount distance 25 1/4 Ratios: 1st 2.45, 2nd 1.45, 3rd 1.00, 4th .69

Models and Pricing:

#PTA500HD
Our heavy duty replacement trans features durability and shift improvement modifications that bring this transmission's rating up to 325 horsepower. Included is our 1800-2000 stall converter. $1539.85

#PTA500SS
Our street/strip model capable of up to 395 horsepower is modified with high performance bands and clutch packs, special valve body, and servo modifications. Included is our high performance converter with stall speeds up to 2800 rpm. A great trans for the Magnum crate engines. $1745.85



#PTA518HD
Our heavy duty replacement trans for the 318 and 360 engines. This trans features heavy duty components and shift modifications for engines up to 395 horsepower. Comes with heavy duty torque converter with 1800 rpm stall speed. $1642.85
4x4 option ADD $206


#PTA518SS
Our street/strip model capable of 500 horsepower is the choice for the high output engines or those who desire the very strongest trans for their car. This trans features high output bands and clutch packs, valve body and servo modifications, and available stall speeds to 2800 rpm with our high performance lockup torque converter. $1848.85
4x4 option ADD $206

We can build the 518 to use behind the B and RB series engines. ADD $606.67 to the trans price for this option.

From the looks of it they are just using an UltraBell.

Like I said, this topic draws a lot of opinions.

I never look to drag applications for what will fly on the street. A nitro car is forgiven if it blows up every 15 seconds, a streetcar isn't. I have 4 Clutchflites in the garage; all of which look like they've had some unhappiness in the front pump bolt area.

If you are willing to forego your stock shifter and use a cable operated kickdown then the Ultra is not an issue. I've never found a cable kickdown that really worked that well, though.

If a clutchflite will handle it then street use is no problem. I've had no problems with installing and using cable kickdowns for myself and customers for years.

Just for those who don't mind using a well-engineered adapter (like I did), here's an article where it was done -
https://home.comcast.net/~ehostler/A518/Part_1.pdf

The company (jvxracing dot com)has been around for a while, has great customer feedback, and the kit is all inclusive. I only had to build a shift cable bracket and have the driveshaft shortened. My setup (30 foot motorhome, beefed 440, + car trailer) has been problem free for 2 years & 17k miles.

This is a very timely post. I have a 518 laying on the floor here that I was getting ready to yank apart and prep to go in the Cuda. (street/strip car)

If you were to use the Ultrabell, would it help to spot weld the tranny to the new 'bell as well as Heli-Coil the pump mounting holes? The spots could be cut in the event that that tranny needed to come apart.

I like the idea of welding a 727 bell onto the 518.
Just a little leery about where to remove the bells.

i've been using a brake lathe to cut off the bells