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Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP #729431
06/20/10 11:21 AM
06/20/10 11:21 AM
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I was driving the Challenger this morning and I pulled into a parking lot to tune the in-gear idle vacuum. The car ran great and I just finished tweaking the carb and while I was walking around the car, it quit running. There was no hint, it just shut off like a light switch. I had voltage, I had fuel, but I could not do any ignition checks. The car sat for 15 minutes or so while I tried to figure it out and then I started up and it was fine for about 10 seconds then died again. Then about another 15 minutes went by and I tried to start it again and it was a bear to get running and then when it finaly did, it was sputtering and puking and I was fighting to keep it running at 1800rpms or so. Then it just slowly died again. I got my AAA card out and it is now sitting in the garage.
My thinking is that the coil or the ECU puked out. Any suggestions?
Note: It does not have a ballast and it has a 3 month old "non-ballast" Mallory coil, 4 year old FBO ECU and distributor.

I have another old coil and Orange ECU box to test out but I wanted to get some advise before jumping in on it on FATHERS DAY.

It was a crapty start for my Fathers day having one of my kids with me and having the whole family watch the car bing loaded onto flat bed, but hopefully my day will get better.

Happy Fathers Day to everyone.

Thanks


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729432
06/20/10 11:33 AM
06/20/10 11:33 AM
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Kirkland, Washington
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Check the ignition feed at the firewall. Blue and green wires very near the brake booster. These spade connections often fail after this much time.
You should have battery voltage at the ballast resistor with the key in the run position.

This may not be the problem of course, but its such a simple thing to check/repair that its a good diagnostic starting point.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729433
06/20/10 12:04 PM
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I would certainly look at the coil they can overheat and shut the car off. After they cool down the car will start again. I had many a Mopar back in the day that had this very same issue.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #729434
06/20/10 12:37 PM
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No ballast, and the coil is only 3 months old and it is one of the Mallory epoxy coils. I would hope that these last longer than 3 months.

I am charging the battery now since I cranked with it for a long time. I might have some time to check the wires at the bulk head later on today.

thanks


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729435
06/20/10 12:41 PM
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Grand Prairie,Texas
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Why no ballast?

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: stumpy] #729436
06/20/10 01:49 PM
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Quote:

Why no ballast?




What he said.

Any part can go bad prematurely, I would seriously look at the coil especially if you haven't been running the ballast. The ballast takes over after start to lower the voltage to the ignition system. With no ballast it has been running at full voltage constantly, unless there is a specific reason the ballast has been deleted. I'm certainly no "expert" but I can speak from experiences from owning a lot of Chrysler products in the past 35 years.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729437
06/20/10 01:59 PM
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If the coil is made to run on 12 volts, why would you need a ballast?


I want my fair share
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: SomeCarGuy] #729438
06/20/10 02:09 PM
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When the engine is running, you can get by fine with a lot less current at the points. That's the purpose of the ballast resistor. If the points were to receive full battery current/voltage at all times, they would only last a few hundred miles before needing replacement. On the same token with the electronic system it protects your coil from premature failure, unless your running aftermarket stuff such as MSD.

At the time of cranking (when the starter is operating), a separate wire gives the points the full 12 volts, bypassing the ballast resistor. When you release the key from "start" to "on", all the power to the points now has to flow through the ballast resistor, preserving the points.

For the .002 second performance gain, it's not worth running your coil at 12+ volts when it's designed for 9v. You wont wreck it right away, but you will shorten it's life.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729439
06/20/10 02:16 PM
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The Mallory coil is designed to run without a ballast and I don't want one. I blew a ballast this spring so I changed to a different coil.

The battery is now charged so I am going to check some voltages.

Thanks for the replies.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #729440
06/20/10 02:54 PM
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"Blue and green wires very near the brake booster. These spade connections often fail after this much time."

Check out my picture. The blue wire is burned about half an inch back from the connector. Is this my issue? If so, what is the best way to fix it since the wire is potted into the connector?

Thanks


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729441
06/20/10 02:58 PM
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Quote:

When the engine is running, you can get by fine with a lot less current at the points. That's the purpose of the ballast resistor. If the points were to receive full battery current/voltage at all times, they would only last a few hundred miles before needing replacement. On the same token with the electronic system it protects your coil from premature failure, unless your running aftermarket stuff such as MSD.

At the time of cranking (when the starter is operating), a separate wire gives the points the full 12 volts, bypassing the ballast resistor. When you release the key from "start" to "on", all the power to the points now has to flow through the ballast resistor, preserving the points.

For the .002 second performance gain, it's not worth running your coil at 12+ volts when it's designed for 9v. You wont wreck it right away, but you will shorten it's life.




One of the recent Mopar mags had a question about running a 12 volt coil w/o the resistor, the reply was that it would cook the ECU box. Why would that happen? I thought the resistor was to keep the coil from seeing the full voltage?

The car in question had an MSD coil designed to run on 12 volts.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: SomeCarGuy] #729442
06/20/10 03:03 PM
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The MSD coil was probably set up with an internal resistor.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729443
06/20/10 03:13 PM
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Easiest way to check is to use a jumper wire from the battery to bypass those wires. If it starts, most likely it is your problem.


Allen Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first. Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729444
06/20/10 03:17 PM
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The coil in question does have an internal resistor.
This is a picture of the inside of the bulkhead. This side shows signs of being burnt too.
How can I fix this at the connector or do I need to pull the connector and reroute this wire around the bulkhead?

Thanks


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729445
06/20/10 03:17 PM
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Quote:

The MSD coil was probably set up with an internal resistor.




That would mean that if you ran the OEM balast that the coil was operating on less than 9 volts, correct?

I'm wondering if I'm cooking the ECU in my car since I jumped the ballast. Blaster 2 coil.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729446
06/20/10 03:21 PM
06/20/10 03:21 PM
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I think there is possibly a bad batch of those new mallory chrome coils, as a freind in town just went through that with a new everything car. We were trying ecu's at first with the comes and goes spark situation, ended up being coil.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: buildanother] #729447
06/20/10 03:51 PM
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This is my current Mallory non ballast coil.

What is the best/safest way to fix the above burnt ignition feed wire?

Thanks

6046390-maa-30450_w.jpg (76 downloads)

1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729448
06/20/10 04:04 PM
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Remove and repolace the terminals.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729449
06/20/10 04:07 PM
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I can tell you my Road Runner died in the street while waiting in traffic. Acted the same as yours. Turned out to be the second (and my last) orange ignition box.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: stumpy] #729450
06/20/10 04:08 PM
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Do the new terminals just press into place on oth connectors?
Bama: I do have another ECU to test but since I found this burnt connector issue, it needs to be fixed first. The inside of the connector (second picture) shows that the blue wire only has a few strands holding it onto the spade due to the burnt sheilding of the wire.

Last edited by YO7_A66; 06/20/10 04:11 PM.

1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729451
06/20/10 04:21 PM
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What part number on this coil? Some of these coils are not designed to work with the high energy ignition systems such as the FBO system. I'm sure you researched it thoroughly, but I'm throwing out ideas here.

Those wires have definitely got too hot at some point but they may not be past the point of no return just yet, although you will have to replace the connectors. I'm just wondering with your combo if there may not be enough resistance or maybe too much.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729452
06/20/10 04:54 PM
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Looking for a way out of Middl...
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Looking for a way out of Middl...
The male terminal looks like this.



If you use a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze it narrower and it will then slide out.

and this is the female.



You will need to stick a small screwdriver/metal stick to depress the tab shown on the bottom of the picture. It will then slide out.

they are available at Napa

or at
www.happyterminals.com

Hope it helps.

Now the reason that wire burnt may very well be from too much current flow to the coil/ignition system. You don't get more power out without more power in.

You may want to use a relay to power the ignition system.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: IMGTX] #729453
06/20/10 06:23 PM
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oberlin, Ohio
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Capacitive discharge ignition systems don't require a ballast resistor. (They may talking about running with their CD ignition box).


1971 Factory Appearing Duster 340 11.000 @ 122 mph
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Rapid340] #729454
06/20/10 08:17 PM
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I replaced the blue wire that was burned and I made some voltage checks:
Key @ RUN:
Bat: 12.8v
Coil +: 11.9v
ECU: both terminals 12.0v
Dist Connector: 1.85v
Cranking: No visial spark from coil wire

NO START. It did not even try to fire. I pulled my dist cap and all of the tips looked clean.
I am plannin on putting on my old Orange MP ECU and try to restart, but not until tomorrow night.

Any other suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks

Last edited by YO7_A66; 06/20/10 08:40 PM.

1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729455
06/20/10 09:57 PM
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MP distributors use stock pickups. That's behaving like one marginal and then dying. If you have a factory service manual I believe this can be tested.


Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: moper] #729456
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I agree the ignition feed at the bulkhead is a
big failure point! I've had that problem before.
You did not mention what kind of distributor that you have.Not likely a mallory Unilite if you're still using the "box",but is still possible to run one.
If it is the Mallory Unilite,replace the electronic "eye" with a new one.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: jcastle1] #729457
06/21/10 06:25 AM
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I am using the FBO distributor/ECU with the Mallory e-coil.

""MP distributors use stock pickups.""
When I tested the distributor connector when the key was at the RUN position, I only got 1.85v.
What voltage should I be getting at the dist pickup at the RUN position? Is it 12v or is it resisted down?

I have the appropriate voltage to all of the key components as shown above except at the distributor connector.
I believe the problem is either the coil or the ECU. I still have no spark from the coil wire to the top of the distributor.

I swapped out to the MP electronic ignition kit many years ago so my ignition harness is not a 70 unit. Does anyone have a diagram that shows what the blue wire (burned one in my picture) goes to on the MP ignition harness? My 70 manual shows it going to the dash lights and the key-in buzzer.

Thanks


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729458
06/21/10 09:38 AM
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Do you have another ECU you can try? I have had a few go bad and they quit working pretty quickly. The first one I had go bad the car started to act up like it was missing a little when I was driving it. I got it home and shut it off. I tried to start the car and had a hard time getting it to start and when I did it would not idle on it own and sounded like it was really out of tune. After two times of starting and dieing the car would not start anymore. I swapped out the ECU and the car fired right up without any more problems.

The second one I had go bad was like a light switch. I had driven the car for a couple of years with the ECU box and after a drive one day I parked the car. A couple of days later I go out to the garage to start the car and it would not fire up. After some trouble shooting I figured out it was the ECU box. With the new ECU the car fired right up.

So given my past experiences I would try the ECU first. If that does not fix it then it sounds like it is the coil.


70 Cuda 340 4 speed - now stroked to 416ci (SOLD)
2017 Mustang Shelby GT350
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: loco340cuda] #729459
06/21/10 09:51 AM
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Loco,
Both of those issues sounds just like what happened over the weekend. I do have a spare MP Orange ECU that I will test tonight after I do a resistance check on the pickup coil.

Thank you.

Can anyone confirm what the voltage at the pickup coil should be at the RUN position? Is it 12v or is it resisted down?

Thanks to everyone.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729460
06/21/10 12:12 PM
06/21/10 12:12 PM
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Columbia, CT
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The test I'm remembering (and it's been a very long time) is for resistance through the pickup. Not voltage.


Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: moper] #729461
06/21/10 12:26 PM
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David,
I found a spec of 150-900ohms thru the pickup coil (which I am going to check tonight), but I was wondering what the voltage would be coming to the pickup coil with the key at RUN just so I can confirm that too. I guess I will know if it starts up that it had enough voltage.

I have 12v going thru two of the pins at the ECU harness but only 1.85v is coming from the ECU (I think that is the source) and getting to the pickup.

Thanks for the reply,


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729462
06/21/10 01:26 PM
06/21/10 01:26 PM
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I don't believe you will not find a spec for voltage going to the pickup coil as the ECU measures a/c voltage generated from the pulses from magnetic distributor pickup.

Last edited by HealthServices; 06/21/10 01:36 PM.

Allen Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first. Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: HealthServices] #729463
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Allen,
Thank you for the clarification.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729464
06/21/10 01:46 PM
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Actually, I might be having some similar issues with my ECU. How do I test that thing out to make sure it's working? Thanks


'70 Barracuda '94 Harley Davidson FXDWG Pit Bull named IKE
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729465
06/21/10 01:59 PM
06/21/10 01:59 PM
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HealthServices Offline
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Here is a diagram that may help you out. Of course you do not have a resistor so it would be just a wire across there.

6047682-1ignition.jpg (125 downloads)

Allen Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first. Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: HealthServices] #729466
06/21/10 02:34 PM
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Allen,
Thank you very much for the schematic.
The burnt wire in the above pictures appears to be the dark blue wire (tracer) #23. I bypassed the bulkhead and wired the two #23's together for the short term as both sides of the bulkhead terminals were damaged.
In my above pictures, there is a green wire right beside the burnt blue one. The schematic that you posted does not show a green wire in the #24 position. Does this just mean that my harness may be a little older/newer than your schematic? I need to trace it just to see where it goes.

Thanks again,


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729467
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Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729468
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Quote:

In my above pictures, there is a green wire right beside the burnt blue one. The schematic that you posted does not show a green wire in the #24 position. Does this just mean that my harness may be a little older/newer than your schematic? I need to trace it just to see where it goes.





Engine side goes to horns, pass side goes to horn relay, sometimes all that extra wiring gets people confused so i just blank it out.

Last edited by HealthServices; 06/21/10 06:22 PM.

Allen Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first. Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729469
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MC: Yes and thank you.

UPDATE:
I checked the resistance at the coil pickup and it read 282ohms which is in the range that I found of 150-900ohms.
Then I replaced the ECU with my spare and no change, no spark from the coil wire. Then I took both ECU's to my local parts store and they tested each one 6 times and they were both tested as good parts.

Is my coil fried?
I checked the resistance across the pos/neg terminals and it read .4ohms. ???

Thanks again,


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729470
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Do you have a part number on the coil? I have some specs for some of them but need the number to see if I have the right one.

If you can supply that and do the following and post back, we might find some info on it.

1.
Disconnect everything from your ignition coil
2.
Take your DMM, set to the Ohm or continuity setting, making sure you have the range set properly
3.
Connect the DMM between the (+) and (-) terminals on your coil. Note the reading.
4.
Connect the DMM between the (+) terminal and secondary terminal on your coil. Note the reading.
5.
Connect the DMM between the (-) terminal and secondary terminal on your coil. Note the reading.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729471
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I would call up mallory for that spec since the coil has a internal resistor.


Seems a really low.


Allen Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first. Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: HealthServices] #729472
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-30450/

3) .4 ohms
4) 9.1 kohms
5) 9.1 kohms

I have a question for you with the RUN voltage at the ECU. I turned the key to the RUN position and then I took voltage readings at the ECU harness and I only found 12v at the #1 position. Is this correct?

Thank you for your help.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729473
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The list I have gives no readings for that coil for some reason, maybe because it is the epoxy series coil. Some of the other numbers I have are right in line with what you are showing.

The voltage at the ECU should be at least 8v in the run position and within .5v of the battery voltage when cranking.

I'm beginning to wonder if it might be the pickup in the dizzy.

Last edited by Mopar Country; 06/21/10 07:43 PM.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729474
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Quote:

I have a question for you with the RUN voltage at the ECU. I turned the key to the RUN position and then I took voltage readings at the ECU harness and I only found 12v at the #1 position. Is this correct?




It should be battery voltage but some lost is normal. 12 volts is not going to prevent you from starting the car. To check and see if you have voltage when cranking, (yes run voltage is off when cranking) remove the starter signal wire (should be the yellow wire) to the relay for testing purposes, then turn the key to crank and read the voltage.

Last edited by HealthServices; 06/21/10 08:03 PM.

Allen Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first. Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: HealthServices] #729475
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My bat is wearing down a touch but voltage at the coil and at the #1 ecu were both at 11+ volts at cranking.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729476
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Well it looks like your issue is one of 4 things...

coil (you are checking the spark at the coil not the plug so the rotor, cap and wires ares not currently the issue)

distributor (as in pickup)

ECU

Or wiring between the three (or ground) but not back to the firewall since you have voltage in the crank and in the run positions at the coil.


You mention you had the ECUs checked.


Allen Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first. Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: HealthServices] #729477
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Well, there are a couple of things you can try if you have not already. We know you had a problem at the bulkhead so to check that run a wire from positive battery terminal to positive coil terminal and see if it starts if not your connections at the bulk head are probably OK.

Secondly, if you pickup coil is bad you can check it. Grab your digital volt meter... set it to 2K ohms.. disconnect the 2 wire plug at the distributor. you should have around 800 ohms. give or take.. anywhere between 600 and 1,500 ohms is usually OK.

Before you disconnect the volt meter, flip the setting to 2 volts AC or 20 volts AC range crank the engine if the distributor is in, spin the shaft if it is out. For the system to work, you need to see over 1 volt AC.

If the pick up coil passes it's resistance test the gap is correct replace the reluctor. The reluctor keeps a small amount of magnetic field so as it passes the pick up coil AC voltage is created to trigger the ignition module. It takes about 0.6 volts AC to turn the power transistor on. If the pick up coil does not create enough voltage the power transistor will not have enough voltage to turn on. If its not on it cannot switch off discharging the coil primary.

If you need to adjust the air gap use an NON magnetic feeler gauge to do so, if you use a standard metal one it will kill the pickup.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729478
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Yes on the two ECU's tested at the store, coil and ECU are getting correct voltage at RUN and CRANK.
I have not tested the wiring from the ECU back thru to the firewall though. I better put that on my list, but I am assuming that it is good since the ECU and Coil are getting the required voltage.

Thank you very much,

MC,
The pickup coil was checked at 282ohms.
""crank the engine if the distributor is in, spin the shaft if it is out.""
Can you please explain this for me? Thanks
I need to check the reluctor gap. It has been a while since I did this.

Thank you very much,


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729479
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Basically spin the dizzy is all I'm saying to test the AC voltage in the reluctor. Did you switch to AC and make sure you have at least 1 volt AC. That pickup should be between 600 and 1500 ohms, usually 800 is optimum. Do you have a spare distributor to throw in there and try it to see if it will run. The ohms are way low on the pickup. I think that might be it!

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729480
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I understand now. I thought that the lower the resistance the better.
I am done tonight but I will buy a new pickup coil tomorrow on my way home from work just in case the AC is too low. I need to spin the motor by hand and watch to make sure the dist rotor is moving too. It appears that I need to focus on the internals of the dist tomorrow night.

Thanks a bunch.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729481
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If you have a different dizzy that you could swap out to see if it runs that would save you buying parts until your sure that's the problem. I had a early 70's van with a 318 in it that did the same thing and it really puzzled me for a while, but you have to go through the motions to get to the final conclusions. But it acted just as you described, run one minute and not the next. Although mine was much slower to go out so it left me sittin' more than once. The last time it did it it almost was if I was running out of gas when it finally quit. It would start and try and run but it was a chore to keep it going.

PS remember to use a brass feeler gauge to set the air gap to .008

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729482
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Quote:


I have not tested the wiring from the ECU back thru to the firewall though. I better put that on my list, but I am assuming that it is good since the ECU and Coil are getting the required voltage.






It is good, do not waste any time on this part of the wiring.


Allen Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first. Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: HealthServices] #729483
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MC & HS:
The pickup coil should be cheap and they are on my way home.
Tonight's hit list:
check the new pickup coil for resistance
rotate motor to see if dist moves
spin dist for existing AC voltage
check existing pickup/reluctor gap
replace pickup coil if bad

Thank you very much.

Note: I can pickup this MP804 at my local NAPA and have it with me if I need it. I know that the picture is a tad off but I will inspect the new part for the 90 degree mounting tabs before I buy it.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729484
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I just checked 2 known good distributors off my shelf and they are both in the 600 ohm range. Be sure and pay attention to which notch is on the pin in the reluctor when you take it apart. Good luck!

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729485
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Thank you again MC.

I just read an article that explained the workings of the ignition systems for guys like me who are trying to understand it. This is a simple description of what it read:

Motor turns distributor shaft
Reluctor spins with distributor shaft which activates the pickup coil
Pickup coil sends signal to ECU (every time one of the 8 reluctor points pass by the pickup coil)
ECU sends signal to coil
Coil sends signal to top of distributor cap
Cap sends signal to plug wires

Since I have voltage at the ECU and at the Coil during the RUN and the START circuits, but I have no spark at the cap, then it is starting to make sense that the trigger (pickup coil) is not telling the rest of the ignition system what to do, as long as the distributor is moving with the engine.

I love this stuff!!

Thanks to all again. I will report back as soon as I get a chance to test the distributor.

6049017-Mopar_pickup.jpg (33 downloads)
Last edited by YO7_A66; 06/22/10 09:03 AM.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729486
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You can also unplug your dstributor, and then remove the cap, noting where the rotor is pointing. Crank the car over for a second, and walk back over and see if distributor has rotated etc.
I actually have the exact same issue that you do currently, and have tested and double-checked everything to arrive at the same point you are today! I am planning on getting a new reluctor in my dist this afternoon, but since I'm on the west coast, I hope you're up and running before I get home from work! At least that would give me some light at the end of the tunnel!

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: CANDK] #729487
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Quote:

You can also unplug your dstributor, and then remove the cap, noting where the rotor is pointing. Crank the car over for a second, and walk back over and see if distributor has rotated etc.
I actually have the exact same issue that you do currently, and have tested and double-checked everything to arrive at the same point you are today! I am planning on getting a new reluctor in my dist this afternoon, but since I'm on the west coast, I hope you're up and running before I get home from work! At least that would give me some light at the end of the tunnel!




Are you sure its your reluctor, or is it the pickup coil?

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729488
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Dave,
The pickup as sold is just the pickup... Not the plate it clips in to witht he 90° tabs for the screws. The picture is correct. You push the pickup's plate down, remove the flat spring clip underneath the main plate, then replace the pickup.


Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: moper] #729489
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David,
Thanks for the heads up.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729490
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Hehe, I did mean pick up coil... I said reluctor, probably because I'm reluctant to do it!
I'll let everyone know if this fixed mine; it's literally the last 'unknown' for mine too.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: CANDK] #729491
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Cand:

Please let us know how yours turns out. I hope to get to mine tonight but the wife keeps adding to my too-do list.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729492
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Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729493
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Ok... I replaced my pickup coil, correctly gapped etc. I put the rotor back on, cap back on, and gave it a crank. Nada, not even a sputter of nothin. So, just on the off chance that I'm crazy, I grabbed my $2.99 Chinese spark tester and pulled #1 plug wire and stuck that in between the plug and the wire. Cranked again, no spark just as I figured.
I went ahead and left the key in run position, and pulled the harness to the orange box, checked voltage and got 11.5ish at the two pins that are supposed to have juice.
I decided to take a gamble and grabbed a 2nd orange box out of a crate. I pulled the harness (mine is mounted under the battery tray) out enough to get it plugged in. I hung it on the j-bolt for my battery hold down for a ground.
Car fired right up before I could let go of the key at about second 1.3 of cranking... with the spark tester still on #1 and all.
I have proper voltage on the ECU, at the coil, and at the pickup with the old orange box, yet no spark. I think I am going to just buy ECUs at frickin shucks from now on! This box is about 18 months old, but has less than 200 miles on it.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729494
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UPDATE:
I tested the coil pickup voltage and it was .5/.6v with engine turning over with the key.
I pulled the dist and as I was trying to install the new pickup I forgot that the FBO dist has a welded advance plate. So I scribed around the existing plate and cut the weld and got the new pickup in place and tapped a new hole and added a screw to tie it back down. The new pickup showed 323/325ohms and while hand spinning the shaft I got 1.5-1.7 volts. I set my .008" gap and got it installed again. I then rechecked the ohms and got the same reading but then I checked the voltage with the starter and I only got the .5/.6v again.
The engine started right up but I could not keep it going. I restarted it again and it fired right back up but I could not keep it running. It had a horrible miss. It kept dying and I kept starting it back up and as I tried to keep it running, the exhaust was making a popping or cracking noise. This was the last noise that I heard from the car before it died for the last time in the parking lot. I know that the timing is probably off a little but not enough to make the exhaust sound like it did. Once I can get it to run better I will recheck the initial timing and get it reset.
I am getting closer but there is still something wrong. What do you think now?

Thanks


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: CANDK] #729495
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"checked voltage and got 11.5ish at the two pins that are supposed to have juice.""

Two pins showed 12ish volts? I only had the #1 showing 12 volts. Which two of the 5 should have voltage? This might help me with my existing issue.

Thanks


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729496
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I'd at least pull the plugs and look them over. Might tell you something. Also do a compression test to rule out anything mechanical.


Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729497
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Did you remove the reluctor when you had the dizzy apart. If so when it went back on did you use the same notch? One notch is for small block and one notch for big block, if you have the wrong one that would certainly be a problem. When you checked your air gap what kind of feeler gauge did you use?

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729498
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David,
I will pull a couple of plugs but as good as it was running, I hope that it is not a mechanical issue. This thing shut off like a switch with no warning.

MC:
I bought a new reluctor and I placed it exactly like the old one with the pin at the double arrow. I used a .008" brass feeler.
Thank you,

Can someone confirm which of the 5 pins at the ECU should have 12v at the RUN position? I know that I had 12v at the #1 position (please refer to the previous schematic for numbering).

Thanks to all


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729499
06/22/10 10:14 PM
06/22/10 10:14 PM
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I'm pretty sure it is electrical, and the fact that it started after you replaced the pickup kinda reinforces that. Can you tdc compression stroke #1 and see if you can get your timing as close as possible, once at tdc put a dot on the side of the distributor with a marker under #1 on the cap. Pull the cap and turn the dist. so that the rotor is just slightly before #1. The dizzy isn't 180 out is it?

#1 pin should be 12 volts on the ecu

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729500
06/23/10 02:54 AM
06/23/10 02:54 AM
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In the attached pic, I have 11.5 volts at the top center pin, and the top right pin, with the key in the run position.
Am I goofy, or could this be why my ECU fried? I have two pins (on the harness and ECU) with voltage to them...

6050521-P1020376.JPG (45 downloads)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: Mopar_Country] #729501
06/23/10 06:33 AM
06/23/10 06:33 AM
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YO7_A66 Offline OP
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I pulled a plug this morning before heading out to work and it smelled of GAS!! I must have had two problems, maybe one causing the second. I have enough juice to start it up but not enough to burn the fuel in the cylinders.
I am going to contact Mallory today and find out why my 1.4ohm primary coil only has .4ohms. I wonder if the resistor went out in the coil (this being a resistor coil so that I do not have to run a ballast) which fried the coil pickup. Because .4ohms is the resistance of their non-resistored coil.

MC:
I marked the housing of my distributor and noted where the rotor was facing before I removed the dist. It started up great but I could not keep it running due to the missing problem. I think either the coil is causing it or the gas soaked plugs are the problem. I almost think that the plugs are a result and not the problem.

CAND:
I swear that I also had 12v to the #1 and #4 (just like you pointed out) pins but when I checked them the other night, I only had voltage to #1. I will recheck again tonight.
I attached a pdf showing a closeup view of the ECU pins (looking at the ECU not at the harness) that was posted earlier.

After I recheck the pin voltage from the ECU harness, I am going to wire in my old FBO coil/ballast to see if my Mallory coil is the problem or not and also pull a couple more spark plugs just to make sure. The one I pulled this morning was a little dark but mainly gas soaked.

Thanks

6050548-ECUPinout.pdf (167 downloads)

1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729502
06/23/10 09:40 AM
06/23/10 09:40 AM
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I spoke with Mallory this morning and after giving him my primary and secondary resistance readings he said that the coil has gone bad already after just three months. Then I told him that the coil had a buzzing noise and he said that is definately wrong.
He suggested that I contact Summit for a replacement and when I did, Summit did not have any in stock and could not get one until the end of July. So I opted for another Mallory coil that could be ran with my electronic ignition and with no ballast. It is a canister type coil and it has the same 1.4ohm primary (non ballast) but it has more secondary resistance and a higher max voltage output. I should have the coil tomorrow and I will get it rewired and tested ASAP.
Should I replace the spark plugs since they smelled like gas?

Thanks again,


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729503
06/23/10 10:59 AM
06/23/10 10:59 AM
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Good to know yours appears to be solved!
I've checked that #4 ECU pin probably a dozen times, and have had 11+ volts there everytime. Since that goes to the distributor, am I seeing this voltage as some signal going back to the ECU from the distributor or is there something just plain wrong here?

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729504
06/23/10 01:30 PM
06/23/10 01:30 PM
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So Cal
HealthServices Offline
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Quote:

Should I replace the spark plugs since they smelled like gas?





Sounds like you are making head way. It is personal preference but if it is just a daily driver the plugs should be fine once the car starts up and burns the gas off the plugs. They just got fuel soaked while attempting to start the car. Hopefully the coil is the last thing needed.


Allen Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first. Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: HealthServices] #729505
06/23/10 05:25 PM
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Glad you figured it out. Coil was my first thought as I have had several over the last 35 years do exactly what yours did. That is another reason I personally would not run that kind of coil on a street car. When a ballast resistor goes bad it will prevent you from driving the car until you replace it or jump it. I'm guessing the internal ballast lost some of its effectiveness and fried the coil. It may have also damaged that pickup coil as well, I'm sure it didn't hurt the new one as you didn't run it long enough. Keep us posted.

Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: CANDK] #729506
06/23/10 09:07 PM
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CAND:
I checked the voltage at my ECU again tonight and I have 12 volts at two of the pins at the RUN position. The two wires with 12v are the Light Blue/Yellow tracer and the Black/Yellow tracer. (I believe the pin numbers are #1 and #2 and looking at your picture the same as yours.)

MC:
I agree that it appears that the coil went bad and then damaged the pickup coil too. But I have to add that the condition of the reluctor and pickup were questionable. The reluctor had heavy surface rust and all of the veins were worn down around the pickup area. It appeared that the pickup was touching the reluctor even though the hold down screw was very tight. It had been awhile (a year or so) since I had that dist out but I was surprised to see them touching each other with the tight screw.

I will get the next style of coil tomorrow and hopefully have time to try and start it tomorrow night and then I will see if anything else went sour too.

I pulled a couple more plugs and they appear fine but just a tad dark from the above issues.

Thanks again,


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729507
06/24/10 08:34 PM
06/24/10 08:34 PM
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UPDATE:
I put the new coil(Mallory but different style) in and first checked the spark from the coil wire. I put a screwdriver apx 1/4" away from the tip and when I cranked it over, a blue spark hit the screwdriver and then jumped about an inch away into the firewall. At that time I knew I had the voltage back! I hooked the coil wire up and turned the key and a split second later the engine was running with no effort at all. It idled better cold than it used to half way warmed up. I let it idle for a while and reset the timing then shut it off for about 15 minutes to let everything get hot. Then it cranked over and fired again in a split second.
I did not get to drive it but I will again this weekend. I want to thank everyone for their help!!!!



1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729508
06/24/10 08:39 PM
06/24/10 08:39 PM
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Allen Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first. Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: HealthServices] #729509
06/24/10 09:18 PM
06/24/10 09:18 PM
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Tempe, AZ
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Glad to hear you got it running.


70 Cuda 340 4 speed - now stroked to 416ci (SOLD)
2017 Mustang Shelby GT350
Re: Car Quit In The Parking Lot: HELP [Re: YO7_A66] #729510
06/27/10 03:37 PM
06/27/10 03:37 PM
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I missed your post, glad to hear you got it going.

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