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Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: Mick70RR] #72731
06/13/08 03:18 PM
06/13/08 03:18 PM
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Spokane Washington
ScottSmith_Harms Offline
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Quote:

HPP was referenced back in the late 50's. Personally I could care less if it is stamped HP or HP2, does not mean a thing unless you match it up to a known six pack VIN. We have all seen C bodys with both stamps.





Ok, well, beats me, I don't know what the HPP meant in the 50's, never dug that far back. I completely agree on your statement about the VINs.

Quote:

What does the arrow mean, the stamp that looks like a sideways letter A?. It's on my block too.




The "arrow" is just was it appears, a sideways "A", according to Galens White Books it means the engine has 20 er cylinder bores from the factory.

Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: beepbeep] #72732
06/13/08 03:27 PM
06/13/08 03:27 PM
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Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: ScottSmith_Harms] #72733
06/13/08 03:37 PM
06/13/08 03:37 PM

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Scott, I will guess you second pic is six pack too...what better way try to trick than show the same Is the S440 75 truck? (I have a 76 here that is T440)

I have only known that you check the vin to be sure of 6 pack, does anyone know about warranty blocks? Just the internals? If you needed a warranty block for a 6 pack, was it an HP block that you got?

Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: RacerGofKGB] #72734
06/13/08 04:04 PM
06/13/08 04:04 PM
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Kelowna, B.C. Canada
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Quote:











.......saved it!


Dave


1970 Super Bee 440 Six Pack 1974 'Cuda 2008 Ram 3500 Diesel 2006 Ram 3500 Diesel 2004.5 Ram 2500 Diesel 2003 Ram 3500 Diesel 2006 Durango Limited [url] http://1970superbee.piczo.com [/url]
Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: DPelletier] #72735
06/13/08 04:24 PM
06/13/08 04:24 PM

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We also need one of those for the later "thin wall casting" myth that's perpetuated time and time again!

Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? #72736
06/13/08 04:42 PM
06/13/08 04:42 PM
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dogdays Offline
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A 1976 truck 440 will be stamped "6T440T" The first digit is the year number, they stopped using letters before then. The first "T" is for the Trenton engine plant where the engine was built. The 440 is self-explanatory. The SECOND "T" means it came in a truck.

Sometimes the stampers were careless, after all the engine ID code was primarily to allow a Mopar mechanic to know what he could expect in the block before opening it up. (So if it had 0.001 or 0.010" under bearings or oversize pistons stock from the factory it wouldn't come as a complete surprise.) If the stamp set didn't get hit squarely or if they put something in a slightly different place didn't mean squat.
ChryslerCorp didn't build cars to be restored. They built cars for their dealers to sell and for customers to drive.

R.

PS: Mopar, NEVER SAY NEVER!

Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: dogdays] #72737
06/13/08 04:53 PM
06/13/08 04:53 PM
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ontario canada kingston
aspenrt360 Offline
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i thought they had to have the bud logo on them


2013 Chrysler 300 touring 1974 Dodge Charger SE. 360-727-8.75-3.23 sure grip 1972 Dodge Dart Swinger 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: aspenrt360] #72738
06/13/08 06:42 PM
06/13/08 06:42 PM
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Western Colorado High Desert
moparmarks Offline
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Ok how about this one. While at the MATS I got into a little disagreement with Daryl Finch. He claims that all 440 HP2 motors in 70-71 came with the 6-pack balancer and the HP,s got the forged balancer. I said I've have several original HP motors with the 6-pack balancer.
Another myth?


72 Satellite Sebring Plus 440, 72 Dart 5.9 4-spd, 68 Valiant, 73 W200, 78 D100 sb, 78 D200, 98 DAKOTA, .
Moparmarks Parts & Restorations
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Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: moparmarks] #72739
06/13/08 07:41 PM
06/13/08 07:41 PM
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Illinois
CRE2004 Offline
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I've never understood these 'originality' debates but I can imagine how things went in the 60's and 70's inside an automotive production facility and I'm sure alot of these "rules" had major deviations due to everything from production part availability issues, misreading build orders to who's hung over on that shift or who misunderstood his supervisor that day. If some guy on the line grabbed the wrong damper, it probably ended up on the engine and stayed that way. The discussion is still very interesting, so please continue

Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? #72740
06/13/08 07:55 PM
06/13/08 07:55 PM
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Posts: 42,714
Spokane Washington
ScottSmith_Harms Offline
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Quote:

Scott, I will guess you second pic is six pack too...




You are right about the first one, it's an original 1970 440+6 block from a numbers matching 70 Cuda. However, your guess on the second one is not correct, it's a regular old 440HP block.



Quote:

I have only known that you check the vin to be sure of 6 pack


That is correct, and so it remains.

Quote:

does anyone know about warranty blocks? Just the internals? If you needed a warranty block for a 6 pack, was it an HP block that you got?






The third photo is a factory Service Replacement 440 Short Block ("S" = Service Replacement) if you blew a 440 under warranty in 1970 (ANY 440) this would have been what your car recieved as a replacement. There was no HP or anything else unique about them.

Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: ScottSmith_Harms] #72741
06/13/08 11:01 PM
06/13/08 11:01 PM
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Florida
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mopar346 Offline
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Not to hi-jack but what does the EHP mean on my 77 440, 7T440 EHP, was told it was out of a Florida Highway Patrol car, no proof but runs strong.


Careful, your character's showing!
Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: mopar346] #72742
06/13/08 11:20 PM
06/13/08 11:20 PM
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renton, Washington
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look up the factory part # on a 70-71 six pack balancer and a 70-71 forged balancer that would tell you dan

Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: mopar346] #72743
06/15/08 12:17 PM
06/15/08 12:17 PM
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lewiston, ID
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Quote:

Not to hi-jack but what does the EHP mean on my 77 440, 7T440 EHP, was told it was out of a Florida Highway Patrol car, no proof but runs strong.


E means cast crank.

Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: cornucopia] #72744
06/15/08 12:21 PM
06/15/08 12:21 PM
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Florida
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mopar346 Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Not to hi-jack but what does the EHP mean on my 77 440, 7T440 EHP, was told it was out of a Florida Highway Patrol car, no proof but runs strong.


E means cast crank.




Which it is, does HP still mean HP?? And what significance does that have in 77?


Careful, your character's showing!
Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: mopar346] #72745
06/16/08 09:34 AM
06/16/08 09:34 AM
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U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Not to hi-jack but what does the EHP mean on my 77 440, 7T440 EHP, was told it was out of a Florida Highway Patrol car, no proof but runs strong.


E means cast crank.




Which it is, does HP still mean HP?? And what significance does that have in 77?




yes HP means high performance .

what significance

Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: JohnRR] #72746
06/16/08 10:15 AM
06/16/08 10:15 AM

A
Anonymous OP
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A



"The third photo is a factory Service Replacement 440 Short Block ("S" = Service Replacement) if you blew a 440 under warranty in 1970 (ANY 440) this would have been what your car recieved as a replacement. There was no HP or anything else unique about them."

Now, from working @ a dealer (not in the 70's) I know that if ordering a warranty part, you ordered the parts specific to the car...eg. if it was a Eddie Bauer Jeep that needed a wheel warrantied, you looked up the Eddie Bauer wheel, I assume it would have been the same then.

So, if you look up the parts to warranty a 70 6 pack with a grenaded bottom end, you go hmmmn short block, 4 barrel or 3 2bbls? The tech says six pack so you order 3462619 as opposed to the 3462617 4 barrel job.

There is where my question lies about the internals on a warranty block. Did it get stamped "S" at the dealer as it was installed as a replacement, or did they need to go a special route to order a warranty engine (seems unlikely).

If your closest depot happened to have the block you ordered, you probably had it right away, were they stamped at the depot? (unlikely)

Or was there a list of warranty part #'s for engines and transmissions? Seems like a pain in the @$$ to me, they certainly would not have done it for trim or whatever, why engines?

Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? [Re: moparmarks] #72747
07/14/08 07:42 AM
07/14/08 07:42 AM
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Indiana
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Quote:

Ok how about this one. While at the MATS I got into a little disagreement with Daryl Finch. He claims that all 440 HP2 motors in 70-71 came with the 6-pack balancer and the HP,s got the forged balancer. I said I've have several original HP motors with the 6-pack balancer.
Another myth?




It's my understanding that all 70-71 hi-perf 440 engines came with the 'cast-crank-style' damper. I have one, don't know whether it is an HP or HP2. And FWIW, it's in a C-body.


Parts I seek: driver doorpanel, 65 Sport Fury, prefer black, needs to be 7-8 on 10 scale, might buy set 16" x 6" Dodge truck wheel(s), from early 70s?, takes 9" dogdish - need for a research job so cheaper is better. 69-73 C-body caliper brackets and/or splashields Send a PM.
Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? #72748
07/14/08 09:29 AM
07/14/08 09:29 AM
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Oklahoma
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gregok Offline
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One sure way to tell is not the block stampings nor the amount of iron or nickel in the block but the amount and stampings on the gold coins they want you to fork over.

Re: How to determine a real Six-Pack block? #72749
07/14/08 10:10 AM
07/14/08 10:10 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 42,714
Spokane Washington
ScottSmith_Harms Offline
Mr Wizzard
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Posts: 42,714
Spokane Washington
Quote:

"The third photo is a factory Service Replacement 440 Short Block ("S" = Service Replacement) if you blew a 440 under warranty in 1970 (ANY 440) this would have been what your car recieved as a replacement. There was no HP or anything else unique about them."

Now, from working @ a dealer (not in the 70's) I know that if ordering a warranty part, you ordered the parts specific to the car...eg. if it was a Eddie Bauer Jeep that needed a wheel warrantied, you looked up the Eddie Bauer wheel, I assume it would have been the same then.

So, if you look up the parts to warranty a 70 6 pack with a grenaded bottom end, you go hmmmn short block, 4 barrel or 3 2bbls? The tech says six pack so you order 3462619 as opposed to the 3462617 4 barrel job.

There is where my question lies about the internals on a warranty block. Did it get stamped "S" at the dealer as it was installed as a replacement, or did they need to go a special route to order a warranty engine (seems unlikely).

If your closest depot happened to have the block you ordered, you probably had it right away, were they stamped at the depot? (unlikely)

Or was there a list of warranty part #'s for engines and transmissions? Seems like a pain in the @$$ to me, they certainly would not have done it for trim or whatever, why engines?





Getitdone (Evil Dead)

You are assuming too much, that's all. The various engines sold as service replacments were never stamped at the dealer (as any kind of regular protocall) it was done at the factory. As far as ordering part#'s etc. Warranty/Service replacments had a tag rivoted to the side of the block with an assembly number stamped into it, 440 long blocks, short blocks, etc. carried a different number respectively. To my knowledge there was never a six pack specific number, only a 440 HP that fit all replacement needs respective to the year application. So, in conclusion, as I said before, regardless of any internal differences, all replacement blocks were stamped the same.

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