hey guys just got the new engine running but the oil pressure is high at idle when hot like 65 -70 psi the egine is a 440 and i have a high volume melling oil pump does anyone have any ideas or possible a suggestion of what i can do ? i was thinking if there is a kit for relief valve and spring inside pump

thanks
john

Milodon has an adjustable pressure regulator for the oil pump.

Once the motor breaks in It will go down .Use thinner oil

What's the pressure at 3000rpm?

Do you have a deep pan on it??High volume pumps are not good for standard oil pans,too much oil up top, not enough down low.try a standard pump.or a weaker spring.(large nut on the back side of the pump.It is possible to do it on the car.Fresh engines will have higher oil psi.If running a 15w40, 20 w 50,etc,A thinner oil will also help.10 w 30.put some miles on it,break it in.did you change it after the cam break in??should to get the assy lube out of the oil.
How are you reading the psi. manual guage or the factory stuff.factory stuff could have an error.Make sure you have a good filter on it.I have had fram's burst at 90 psi.use a good filter,wix,napa,purolator.

ok well here is the deal so far i do have a stock pan becsaue the car sits very low . also i am using 10-30 oil and yes i did drain the oil after break in and i ma using autometer gauges to get reading , now i like teh idea of changing that spring , do u think its the better idea than changing pump ? and does anyone have the part # for it? or is it better to chang the pump , its brand ne its would be a pitty to change it

whats a good pressure at idle?? and at 3000rpm? I have close to 60psi at starup...is that to high? when it gets hot it will go down to 40psi at idle. I also put the same oil pump on a 69 383hp... the autoparts store guy was telling me the hiher the better??

40 psi at a warm idle is great. Rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000 rpm. With 20 being ok at hot idle.

John, call melling tech support they should have your answer about the spring part number the number is.... Customer Service: 517-787-8172

I went to Advance Auto and went to the HELP section. They sell a mixed pack of copper washers, one of which will just screw onto the threads of the cup ( holding the spring in the oil pump). It is .050 thick. I added it to the stock washer and it brought my cold pressure down from the low to mid 80's to upper 70's.. I was able to change it from the top side of the motor

with scamp408

What is being seen here, is that a high volume pump isn't needed on a freshly machined motor.

The clearances are tighter. A new stock pump will move more oil, and make more oil pressure than you can ever use.

I recently reringed a 440, and put fresh bearings in it. No machining, and the clearances checked to be around .002 to .0025 on the mains. .002 on the rods, and cam bearings were not changed.

I used a stock oil pump.

The pressure relief stuck in it at start up, so it was full pressure.

It made so much pressure at an 800rpm idle, that it pegged the gauge and wrecked the sender, and BLEW the filter right apart.

SO.... in a motor with high clearances (compared to an actual rebuilt/machined motor which would have main clearances closer to .0015) and only a standard volume pump, it STILL moved enough volume of oil, to make enough oil pressure to destroy a filter, at only 800 rpm. I'd be surprised if it was anything less than 100 psi.

All this said, I'll never buy a high volume oil pump again. At least not for a fresh motor.

I'll gladly put one on a motor that is miled out, and has oil pressure problems.