The temperature gauge & fuel gauge (non-rallye dash) don't work on my 70 coronet. I replaced the voltage limiter but still nothing. I have voltage to the limiter as wells as voltage coming out (test light flashes). However, there is no power at the temp sender or fuel sender ( checked at sender connections). Anybody got any suggestions ?

What voltage do you have going in and what coming out?

Exact voltage, I don't know. All I had was a test light. It was bright on the input side & flashed on (dimmer) on the other terminal.

You need to see if there is continuity from your sending unit to each gauge. Did you check for power at each gauge from the limiter? The sending units for fuel and temp are variable resistance to ground that make your gauge move you could try touching the sending unit wire to ground to see if you get a deflection of the needle on the gauge. Do you have a good body to engine ground?

I would check at the bulkhead connector to see if you have power to them from the dash first.

I cleaned the grounds. Also checked continuity from both sender plugs to the back of the cluster (continuity was good). With the key on, there is no voltage at either sender. Also none at plug in on back of the cluster. My other plugs (turn signals, bright lights, etc.) have voltage. There is voltage at the bulkhead connector on the fuel circuit but not the temp circuit. There is voltage on the fuel sender circuit at the plug in from the ignition to to the dash loom. It makes me wonder if there is a broken wire in the dash loom, but it still has continuity ????? Hopefully I am forgetting something obvious.

I am assuming that the setup is a CVR with spades that plug unto the printed circuit on the back of the cluster. If I am mistaken (or otherwise on an acid flashback), feel free to ignore what I am going to say. Note that this approach is often taken by my wife.

The failure of both gauges means that there is a high probability that the failure is in circuitry shared in common (rather than a coincidence of two failures in two later separate places). You previously stated that you have input power [bright test light] and output power [dimmer, pulsing light] at the CVR. Put aside the minutiae of the actual voltages - the test light method works for the majority of this level of diagnosis.

Where did you get the dim, pulsing light on output?

a. If it was at the spade of the CVR, maybe there's a dirty connection at the output socket. Try cleaning it up, and add interference by gently twisting the CVR spade a bit and re-inserting it.

b. If it was beyond the CVR, chase it from there. Broken tracing in the printed circuit? Dirty connection(s) at the gauge backs?

Personally, I am hoping that your test light was on the spade, and you just have a dirty socket contact.

Dim, pulsating light was at the cluster voltage regulator. I have nothing at either sender connections.

At the spade.

Okay.

So the pulsing, lower voltage has to make it from the spade, through the printed circuit tracing, to the input side of the two gauges.

Check for a bad connection where the spade plugs into the socket. Take out the CVR. Twist the spade a bit so it has interference when plugging it back in. Plug it back in.

Fixed the problem !!!! Ended up being bad circuit board. Robbed one from an extra cluster & everything works now. Thanks guys for the help.

are new circuit boards still available ?

just curious