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Re: Help me plan for paint - materials, newbie at this.... [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #629603
03/06/10 10:55 PM
03/06/10 10:55 PM
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 228
northeast texas
S
strokin73cuda Offline
enthusiast
strokin73cuda  Offline
enthusiast
S

Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 228
northeast texas
Quote:

I've been leaning towards the idea of painting it with the whole car together, doing the engine bay/under hood, trunk, door jams first, then comming back later and doing the body. I think I would have a lot tougher time putting everything together without damaging something, not to mention chipping up the paint on all the bolts for the hood, doors, trunk, etc. But I'm sure the pros have their ways around that too. The door jams and trunk I'm not as concerned about, but would you mask off the engine bay after it's painted to prevent getting overspray when going back to paint the body?


Yes definately use something to protect it. I used a roll of thin painters plastic used by housepainters from lowes (or home depot) its very cheap and usefull for other things as well. The clear especially floats around for while in the air just waiting for a place to stick where it shouldn't. As far as doing the jambs first I actually added a stripe similar to the factory billboards after the car was already painted, with doors on for alignment of the stripe and masked the inside of the doors and jamb so no overspray would get in thier.


496 stroker,Indy srs , new best 6.87 @ 98 1.46 60'
Re: Help me plan for paint - materials, newbie at this.... [Re: strokin73cuda] #629604
03/07/10 12:40 PM
03/07/10 12:40 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 708
Mechanic Falls, Maine
4
4BBodies Offline
mopar addict
4BBodies  Offline
mopar addict
4

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 708
Mechanic Falls, Maine
Spraying it apart is fine, on a solid color, but unless you like putting it together and taking it apart, you will have to repaint/blend everything after it is assembled to get the metallic to match. And to those who say "well I did it and it matched fine," then you are extremely lucky, and my hat is off to ya! The reason they do this is to avoid tape lines, yet I haven't had 1 person notice my tape lines on the jambs, or under the hood at shows, they are practically invisible. But torture yourself if you like! Nothing more aggrivating than scratching new paint while you are lining up the fenders/hood/doors etc........and then having to shoot it again anyway........but what do I know, after 30 years of it........

Re: Help me plan for paint - materials, newbie at this.... [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #629605
03/07/10 01:38 PM
03/07/10 01:38 PM
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 770
Central Utah
Mopargnome Offline
super stock
Mopargnome  Offline
super stock

Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 770
Central Utah
Quote:

I still have paint over the factory finish on most of the car, however there will be some sheet metal work and a small amount of filler needed. The car will go straight from body work to primer to paint fairly quickly, while being stored inside my dry garage.

I was planning on going with the PPG Omni system, I have a couple local autobody supply places that carry it. The omni MP182 2k urethane surfacer p-sheet indicates it is able to be applied over etch primed bare metal, scuffed oem finishes and body filler. "Sounds" like this would fit the bill perfectly for me, however I know the p-sheets are notorious for not vounteering the info about whether they are suitable to cover large areas of etch primed bare metal or large areas of oem finish. The two omni paints I was looking at, the MTK acrylic urethane single stage and the MBP acrylic urethane base coat both indicate they can be applied over the MP182. I just want to be sure I'm not taking an over-simplified idea out of what the p-sheets are saying.

Will a (mixed with reducer) gallon of single stage or base coat be enough or should I be buying enough to do 1.5-2 gallons(after mixing)? What about the surfacer if I wanted to be able to do 3-4 coats of surfacer?

Thanks all for the info so far.




Omni Mp-182 is a great primer. I have used it on many projects over the years. If your going with a solid color, use single stage. If you have runs or orange peel its easy to fix with a wetsand and buff. Doing it in base clear will be more expensive and more time consuming, because you go around the car many more times. To do a complete like you talking, 1.5 gallons should do. Once you add hardner and reducer you end up with alot more sprayable material. Good luck

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