I appreciate the tip, MoparMarq. Any idea which month it was in? I don't subscribe to MA, so I don't know if I can even access the article through the internet. My dash is a rallye dash as well, but I believe the mayout of the gauges may be different. But, if I can convert the gauge to a voltmeter, I would like to try that.

If you can possibly advise which month that was, I would appreciate it greatly!

BTT

Sorry for the delay, out of town.

Issue was December 2009 Mopar Action, page 74.

They used a Sunpro CP7985. But the dash was for a '71-'74 B-body rally dash. I don't know what an A-body looks like. The Sunpro has a needle which points down, so works well in a B-body. (More voltage in a needle that points down when installed moves the needle to the right - counter-clockwise around the needle axis).

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

-Marq

Thank you, sir! Darn, that won't work at all. If you are facing the dash of my rallye dash, the gauge pod is to the right of the steering column. The ammeter is at the top left, with an upward needle.

Well, it was worth a shot. Thanks anyway. Since I don't subscribe to Mopar Action, unless I got my hands on a back issue, I couldn't see that article anyway.

Ok, avoiding the fuses and flasher deal itself what it looks you already did it here are my thoughs

as you can see on my diagram, the discontinued lines represents the Mopar wiring method

but then some doubts comes into my mind...

what source feeds the wire I outlined in pink to ign switch ? RED FROM STARTER OR BLACK FROM ALTERNATOR connected in to the fuse box ?

what about the LIGHT SWICTH SOURCE ? where comes from ? The POWER SYSTEM WIRE OR THE ALTERNATOR WIRE ON FUSE BOX ? instruction sheet on point 12 states:
12. ATTACH THE WIRE TO POWER UP THE HEAD LIGHT SWITCH TO THE LIGHT
SW B+ TERMINAL. (RED W/ BLACK STRIPE WIRE) (12GA) but doesn't say whats the input source to feed it... power system or alternator wire

BOTH OF THOSE WIRES ARE spliced in to the alt wire on stock system to use ammeter correctly, but dunno what does feed the POWER SYSTEM WIRE into the painless fusebox.

when I know what feeds this wire into the new fuse box will be able to diagram how to wire it.

To be able to use correctly the ammeter all the load needs to be on black wire side of the ammeter

still analizing

( BTW, dunno why 2 acc wires coming from ign switch on diagram )


BASICALLY all my doubts are concerned into:

-on painless fusebox, What is the source what feeds the ign switch and the lights switch... Alt wire or Power system wire ?

-on painless fusebox, What is the source what feeds all the constant powered fuses/devices ? Alt wire or Power system wire ?

without having the fuse box in hands or without known the Chebby system ( what it looks Painless is based ), is hard to tell to me

Can you check for continuity to know what wires/circuits register continuity with ALT wire and wich ones with SYSTEM POWER wire ?

I can't express how confused I am right now. I wired the fuse block according to the instructions given. I have tried to find out the answers to your questions, but unfortunately I haven't been able to find out yet. I do have a meter to check these out, but it seems to be malfunctioning right now. It doesn't have sound for testing continuity, so I am confused as to how to use it. I don't know what I did with the instructions, either!

OK, on the wires you have highlighted on the diagram. The wire from the alternator I have connected to the alt bat post on the fuse block. The wire from the starter relay I have connected to the battery feed on the fuse block.

will work on it... patiente

fisrt... this is the Stock configuration on a Mopar ( tipical ). some models could it be slight diff, but mainly this is the setup. You can see all the consumption is on alt side ( but starter motor itself, not the relay what is activated from ign switch ), to make work the ammeter correctly

Yes sir, I understand that the electrical draw is on the alternator side of the ammeter. I will await your suggestions.

Thanks again!

then we have this ( mainly ) from painless instruction sheet.

where, is clear what instruction says about the orange wire for acc on fusebox... but brown ?

then how is routed the red and black wires. Instruction says RED to hook to batt is the main system power... but black coming from alt ? what is for ?

then... lights red/white... I Guess is feeded from batt or alt.

then... we could break the red wire coming from starter solenoid and fit in the middle the ammeter wiring... but what is the black wire function ? are both linked together inside the fusebox ?

I guess the ign switch red wire is linked to... black or red ( batt or alt )

definitelly break the red line coming from bat and fit in the middle the ammeter will work to make work the ammeter correctly. But would wish to know about the rest.

Maybe I'm oversizing the "problem" BUT when I'm giving advices I like to get in to details and made everything correctly matched.

Just right this ( attachment ) but...

will check further the rest of details about the fuses and sources asigment you could make

The only brown wire I see is that one that powers up the hazard (emergency) lights. Is that the one you are speaking about?

I also have a few more questions (as if you didn't have enough to think about, lol). Will the wires passing through the bulkhead be OK as long as I replace the wires and install new terminals with dielectric grease, or should I just run the wires straight through the firewall? Also, should I hook up the gauges to the terminal on the fuseblock that is designated for the gauges? It's a fused terminal.

Thanks so much, Nacho!!!

One thing more...

with all this job, it looks you would ( if you still didn't do it ) get rid of the stock main splice, because it looks the new fuse box already works like a main splice, with the wires to feed lights, ign switch, alt, batt arriving to... and everything "fused"

Now I have some new questions. If you have a wiring diagram handy for a 1971 Valiant, the question is, which wire powers the headlight switch? I have a pink and a black with a white tracer that appear to both carry current to the switch. Also, which wire should I use to attach to the ignition coil terminal on the fuse block? Should it be the large brown wire, or the dark blue wire? I believe the brown wire is the bypass for the ballast resistor to the coil to start up the engine.

Sorrt for all the questions, but my wiring of the fuseblock seems to have been a bit incorrect, and from hearing from you, it has been brough to my attention. I need to fix this before I install the wiring harness and fuse block, so all the help you can offer is greatly appreciated!!!

I don't really need the 71 diagram since all colors all years are the same in all bodies specially for those years.

yes, headlight switch gets two sources. One is unfused directly from alt splice ( as I "diagramed" )being black ( dunno remember if traced, but thick ) and one is fused coming from fuse batt side. Wire is pink.

The direct unfused black source feeds ONLY headlights beams. The pink wire feeds parking/sidemarkers/dimmer(cluster) and comes froma fuse on stock wiring. The original fuse also did feed the glovebox light and some acc constant sources like courtesy lights, map lights

Up to mids 70s Yes brown wire from ign switch bypasses the ballast on Start moment to max power on startup moment. Dark blue is what feeds the coil THROUGHT THE BALLAST on RUN moment, alt field, regulator AND CHOKE.

On lates 70s the ballast bypass was moved to starter relay and is closer to Painless wiring diagram

will draw some other diagrams about specifically those circuits paying attention on the 71 valiant diagram

ok... firts. as far I can tell and already stated, it looks the splice on alt wire will dissapear with the fusebox of course