Did you check the float levels. should have a 6.5 power valve and 70 to 72 front jets.

yes, the floats are fine, the carb. did have a 6.5 power valve, i have replaced with 3.5, i was going to take apart and go down with the jets,
i am going to try this next week, a buddy just called he will bring me a good dist. that he has to let me try to see if is my dist.

First things first. What do you have you timing set at, initial and total?

Without a dial-back light, just set the initial timing (at 900ish RPM) to about 14 degrees, then set the mixture screws to about 2.5 or 3 turns(or just set them properly if you know how) finally check the float level once more and once the fuel just comes out of the sight plugs, go back down a 1/4-1/2 a turn. Keep at it, my 383 with 8:1, 800 Double pumper and a MP 274 cam was running mid to high 13's and ran unreal.

Don.

A couple of things.

What you are describing is typical of a low comp engine with a larger cam and not enough intiial timing. You can jet it all day, if you like. But it won't run any better till the timing is sorted out.

.050 off the heads of a motor with the pistons .170 in the hole, doesn't do much. It'll be 8:1 on a good day.

Ideally, I think you want to advance that cam 4 degree's or so to make it better down low..

The rock stock converter isn't doing you any favors. The misconception is that you can't drive a converter with more stall on the street.
A well built performance converter will drive like a stocker under light throttle, and flash to a higher rpm on hard launch. A 3K converter would be a nice match for that.

If I was curving a distributor for you, I'd recommend 18 intial, and 35 total all in by 2800.

The 3.55's are fine. I run way more cam with 3.73's, and didn't lose any ET when I switched from the 4.10's I had before the 3.73's.

Like I said before timing affects fueling, fueling does not affect timing get that timing setup correctly initial AND total before you even dink around with the carb. Until you do that you are wasting your time. I run a 76 440 with stock pistons and the lunati 60303 cam which is 226/234 @ 050 to your 230/236 not much difference. Mine runs/drives just as cleanly as it did with the stock lo-po cam which is said to be more like 210. This combo loves a well tuned distributor, you can NOT just bolt one in right out of the box and go. Mine likes 18* initial, maybe more yet, but I had been running it (needlessly) on pump 94. You will want a lot of initial timing like that, with the total near 40 all in somewhere around 2500. You need either a dial back timing light or timing tape for your balancer. Once that distributor is dialed in, then and only then start to tinker with the carb. Without the correct timing, you will not be able to tune out that bad bog when you snap to WOT nor will you get any kind of a clean burn.

Run a combo not too far off and found that the MSD box with Blaster coil really helped to clean it up. Everything else has a compromise such as bigger carb is more power less milage, bigger cam is higher rpm to get to usable range. Beter ignition is win/win better per Dr Jacobs. Starting,running,milage and cleaner burn. I also had a problem with an incorrect ballast resistor on a coil-distributor that took some life out of me before we found it. One system at a time works for me.

A lot of people are afraid of stall converters. I have a 28 to 3200 stall cars drives like any other car till you mash the pedal. No banging when you drop into gear no 2 footing at a red light to keep it from stalling. Back in the 80's i had a 69 Charger 440 525"lift 290 310 advertised duration 12.5 to 1 tunnel ram motor 4;10 gears and a 5000 stall. That would stall a bit higher just driving around but not that much more then a stock converter. It was very drivable. But it was fun when you mashed that pedal.

wow, thanks for all the input, from what i am reading, sounds like i need to get someone over to my house to teach me about timing, i have tried all the tricks everyone is saying, i have marked top dead center, put timing tape 2 1/4" and 1", the problem is i cannot get the car to run correctly trying to do this by the book timing, when i try to do by the book, the car runs like crap, then i hook up the vac. gauge and do it by ear and feel, i get the car running great, except for the flumes out the exhaust, i am going to break down and load it up on trailer and take it to expert in timing next week, i will give Moparts update, everyone has told me the problem is in the Timing, and the only reason i avoided it , is because i really do not know anything about getting this done, i was hoping to put some jets in carb and fix it, i should have known , this wld be too easy, Thanks for everyone's thoughts and input, i really think it is the timing too, i think i am running 18 to 20degress at idle, i cannot figure out the total timing yet, i have been just trying to do the timing by ear, vac. gauge and feel, starter drag etc., i guess this old shade tree trick is not going to work with a high performance cam, i will get back with Moparts once i try to get the timing thing sorted out!

If you didn't index the cam, the cam could be off and you'll chase your tail trying to tune it out. Just lining up the dots isn't good enough for aftermarket parts.