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get an otc stinger part number 4503. we sell them over the counter at my work for $33.85. it hasnt let me down yet. used it twice last week with no issues.

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My a/c crimper is a Mastercool, they seem to make real nice stuff

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I have a Mastercool setup and it is awesome. Factory looking flares without having to remove the line from the car after you bend it up.

The main problem with the flaring tools that are sold is that they are made for "thin wall" tubing. I have yet to see a parts store that sells said think wall tubing. Did you ever notice that your tubing vice (the thing that holds the tube) makes the tube oval when tightened down? This is because you are using thick wall tubing. I have never seen a cheapy double flaring kit made for "thick wall" tubing.

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Have been following this thread with interest. Ran across this description on Amazon, of thier Ridgid 345 flaring tool:

<i>Product Description
Item #: 632-23337. All flaring tools listed are recommended for soft materials such as aluminum and soft copper

No. 454W, No. 455, and No. 375 will also flare steel, <b>stainless steel</b>, hard copper, and brass

No. 458R and No. 377 will flare steel, <b>stainless steel</b>, hard copper, and brass thru wall thickness of .035 inches

No. 345 is a precisioin designed tool for producing 45§ flares in soft copper. brass. aluminum, and mild-steel tubing. A hardened, smooth cone provides fast, 45§ flares either single or double lap. A single clamp screw provides for easy clamping and removal of tubing</i>


Not reccomending a Ridgid, just for additional info. 458R was about $120.

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Well, got the Mastercool flaring kit by UPS after my $320 payment. Put small 45 degree bevels on the line. Locked it in the locking jaws and tightened up till it was very tight with the blocks bottomed. With the tool in place and adjusted, I squeezed the hydraulic handle as I half shut my eyes in fear. The other half of my eyes watched as the tubing pushed right out the bottom of the die!!!!! Noooo!!! It did absolutely no better at holding the tube than the cheaper tools did.
I don't see any way it will work unless I grind the outer diameter of the tube down to weaken it. It's 3/8" steel tubing with a .028 wall. That would be counter productive on a fuel line to thin it out more I would think. I'm confused about how so many people don't have any problems doing this unless they are using it on smaller tube.

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Wow...320 bucks?
Like somone said above, get some different tubing. Sorry about your trouble.

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Well, got the Mastercool flaring kit by UPS after my $320 payment. Put small 45 degree bevels on the line. Locked it in the locking jaws and tightened up till it was very tight with the blocks bottomed. With the tool in place and adjusted, I squeezed the hydraulic handle as I half shut my eyes in fear. The other half of my eyes watched as the tubing pushed right out the bottom of the die!!!!! Noooo!!! It did absolutely no better at holding the tube than the cheaper tools did.
I don't see any way it will work unless I grind the outer diameter of the tube down to weaken it. It's 3/8" steel tubing with a .028 wall. That would be counter productive on a fuel line to thin it out more I would think. I'm confused about how so many people don't have any problems doing this unless they are using it on smaller tube.

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Some things come to mind...

Clean the line and clamping die with brake clean to make sure there's no oil.

If you are using SS line like Summit sells you have to anneal the end of the line before flaring. I know the ad says it's already annealed, but trust me, it needs to be done again. I use my jet flame cigar lighter pointed at the end until it starts to turn golden, then let it air cool till it's cool to the touch.

Look at the clamping die on the back where the size is stamped. It should be indented where the "45 Inverted" is stamped and the print should be at 90 degrees to the "3/16" stamping. If not, it's the older design. Call Mastercool and ask for tech support. They will probably send you out the newer design clamping die.

You have to bevel the outside edge of the line as in the instructions.

Hope this helps...

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Making sure the end you're flaring has some silicone spray lube on it will help keep the flaring device from pushing it through the clamp.

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